SledZ

I don't want or need to buy a whole kit... all I need are the rear shock towers and wheel arches in black for a 240 if anyone has those pieces in good shape. Thanks.

Excellent write up and the gauges are cool. After reading this I had to post how I did it 12 years ago.Same methodical plan just did it in the car. Kinda funny when I look back on it. The dash still looks perfect.

I just put on 195/70 R14's Kumo Solus KH17's on mine. Got them from Tirebuyer. They are called a High Performance all season tire. Price wasn't bad either. Just put them on two weeks ago so not much testing so far..

The inner side of the bumper had a fair amount of rust in spots, some heavy pits and you can still see them for sure but its plated also, just not full on chrome. I took the bumper as a whole to have them check it out first and he said there was enough metal to make it work. Pretty much destroyed the studs on the old rubber taking them offf they were rusted so badly. I bought new ones from zcardepot. I thought about the stainless but I don't know if you can get the bumperettes and figured I'd keep the originals on it. Either way its a chunk of dough!!

Just got my bumper pieces back from chroming and wow they look great. New rubber also. I paid $650.00 to have it done. Not sure if its a good or bad price but maybe it can be a reference for anyone else thinking about it. it was local plating company and they have good references. I'll have to wait until this winter to shell out for the front.

Sorry I did mention it was a 204Z but the VIN is HLS30-08996 August of 1970 Build date. So almost could be a 1970. I'll go with the "oldest Auto on the road in the US" if I ever sell it and dare someone to prove it isn't! Speaking of 510's here is my family's window sticker for our 510 wagon. It was a 1971 purchased June 30, 1971. Car I learned to drive with and would get another if I had a chance but would have to be orange!

Hi All, I purchased a one owner, very nice 1971 with an automatic with a VIN number of 8996. According to ZHome documents, the first Auto was VIN 8944. That leaves 52 cars between that one and mine. What are the chances that I have the oldest Automatic 240? If so, would it be more valuable left as an Auto? Unfortunately it does not have the original engine in it. I don't want to swap a 4 or 5 speed in it because half the reason I bought it was so my daughter and wife would drive it, the other half was because it is so straight and unmolested.

That's unbelievable..I found a round emblem and it does have three pins that match up.. What the heck that sucks... I wonder how that ever happened. the round emblem covers the two holes for the correct one!

Thanks, just goes to show there is still stuff out there! Here is a picture it only used two holes... weird It is vin 8996 so kind of an early 71.

Hi All, I just purchased a one owner 71 240 that was painted in 1983 and sat until I bought it.. None of the emblems were put back on but it came with all new metal emblems which is nice. What I don't understand is why there are so many holes for the side emblem? any ideas?

Sounds like there should be a class action lawsuit against K&N to me. Dang things are expensive too! Well I'll have to decide what to do once I fire it back up this spring. Not to worried as I put less than 500 miles a year on it.. at that rate, after 10,000 miles I'll be almost 80 years old and wont care! But for you young whipper snappers... hmm

Thanks! I have seen Guys and yours looks great also! It was a great winter project. I have about 350 miles on the engine, I think after 500 I am going to drive it like I want. BIG difference from the 240 engine for sure.

I finished my engine transplant with a 280zx/P79 with a stage II cam and wanted to keep it all looking original and I am wondering if the stock air box is limiting air. I do have a K&N filter installed to help. Any thoughts?

I ran slotted dish's until I bought these vintage American Racing wheels.

Got it done thanks for the tips. I welded them in and ground them down.

My parents (Mom) bought an orange 510 station wagon new in '71 with a stick. Four of us boys learned how to drive with it, me being the first and the youngest rolled it 6 years later! What a great car that was a blast to drive and ever since then I have been a Datsun fan! Sure is a simple way to buy a car those days. Also to sweeten the deal, the dealer also sold Honda's and for a mere 200 bucks we got a blue Honda Mini Trail 50! Those things are super expensive these days..

I am putting an engine together with the Isky cam and they recommend using the Brad Penn break in oil, once that's done I plan on using the Valvoline Z1 from there on out. I think the zinc makes sense for the break in and probably a few oil changes after that. I run plain ole oil in two other vintage cars I have, never synthetic.

Not too worried about being perfect if it's not that necessary. It would save some bucks and I could call it done. I searched for other pictures to reference and there are some that were worse than mine. I just tried an original pad and cut feeler gauges to .160 and it made a little difference but not that much. Maybe I'll try to go down to .140 after work and see what it looks like.

Almost all my wipes are identical (thank you machine shop) a couple are a little worse but not much. Can I get by with this? I had Delta do the rockers and had Isky re-grind my cam for a stage II and they sent .175 lash pads, along with new springs and retainers.

Ok so I called Total seal and ordered new oil rings. A bit expensive because of my .030 bore so they have to make them up. No biggie to get it right. At any rate he said these ITM's are an old school ring and they way to put them on is to fit them on the piston then use the ring compressor to "squish" them into place. I said well how do you know if they are on right... he said you don't! He said I will really like what they are sending. I'll just move on to another part of my project in the meantime....Good thing for digital cameras!

Thanks Diseazd, I called Total Seal and they wanted measurements so I will check them in a bit. I only have calipers that big so hopefully I can get it close enough.. I had the cylinders bored out .030 over just to have a good fresh start and keep .010 just in case..! Jarvo2, I am trying to install them like any other oil ring set. Slip on the expander then the other two, one above and below, it should be a piece of cake. There is only one groove for the oil ring. If you look at the picture of expander zig zag thing in the bore, you can see that the circumference it too big for the oil ring, the oil rings are supposed to rest on the edge of the "tangs" of the spreader ring that rests against the inner piston groove. But there is no way that will work with what I have. Funny thing is that the ring packages say .030 over I just don't think I am missing something.

I just went out and fought them again and I have come to the conclusion the spreader ring is incorrect and a POS. So I am going to find new ones like Disazed suggests. I also took a picture, and you can see there is no way the ring can fit with that spreader ring diameter.

I wrestled with the oil rings for about 20 minutes and came to the conclusion I'm not doing something right or something has to be modified as I can't even get one of the two oil rings to fit correctly with this spacer in place. It wont stay in place, overlaps itself at the slightest move and the rings won't fit into the piston groove correctly. I can't figure it out and I'm a handy dude! Can't find anything on the interweb other than throw them away and buy some other brands. Anyone have any ideas or am I really missing something obvious? It should not be that difficult....

Thanks for the tips on closeing them up! I am an original kind of guy and like to keep cars that way so was concerned about desacrating a manifold but in reality it's not a 1970 with a VIN of HLS00010 or something! Thanks!

Hello, I have started to redo my engine and engine compartment. I have swapped out the original engine and working on another. I am planning on keeping the original 240 with the car (not sure why it does not match). I'd like to re use the manifold but to do that I need to take off and plug the air ports on the manifold. Is there any demand or reason to keep that manifold intact and buy another one or just whack em off and not worry about it?