SledZ

I didn't think it was but it will leave 2 nice strips of rubber every time I want to. From reading all the posts everyone without LSD spins one tire and the other just sits there getting no where so thought I might have something unique. Didnt think LSD was even around anymore..Timothy Leary is dead isnt he!? :nervous:

My 72 240 with 180 diff and 3.36 ratio burn rubber on both 215 summimotos on any surface every time I try it. I can also position one wheel in the gravel and the other on pavement and they both "peel out". I did the driveshaft revolution test and I have the 3.36 stock rear end. These are the tests I did this weekend to check. 1. In Gear: - I turn one wheel and the other turns the opposite direction - I hold one wheel and turn the other and it will not turn 2. Out of gear. - I hold either wheel and I can turn the other freely - I turn the driveshaft and most of the time only one wheel turns sometimes both but sometimes neither. - I turn the driveshaft and hold one wheel it forces the other to turn After reading all the post's I wonder why a LSD in a 3.36 since everyone goes for the 3.7 3.9 4.11 so I wonder what I have?

I'll bet one of the wires that is plugged into your running lights are backwards. The PO of my car did and I just figured it out. They ran fine for a year and then started blowing, traced everthing and found out it was the right rear running light wires were reversed. They can run that way because they can be insulated from the rubber gaskets, but once they shift enough and the casing touchs the screw,, pop! I was relieved Also the parking light switch is just that a switch. you can take off the molex connector and short the green/blue - green/white wires and make sure it isnt your switch.

This is how it looked after

Here is what the throttle rods looked like before

I could not stand the "sticky agressive" throttle any more. It is where you start to give it gas and it kind of sticks and then gives, making it hard to get a smooth start. After reading all the posts this appears to be a common problem on the early Z's and I could not find any pictures except for the tech article on ZHOME.COM I decided to take off the "arm" grind off the weld and reposition it to see if I could get it to smooth out. As you can see in the pictures it did not take much of a turn, in fact I would turn it a bit LESS because I had to shorten the top rod almost to it's max and unscrew in the accelerator rod a 1/4" to get the throttle to open all the way. The reason I didn't repostition it again is because I really welded it up to much and didn't want to grind it off again and I thought I could adjust it more with the rods. I can say for sure that it worked fantastic. The whole day I drove around I kept expecting the "stick then give" but it is as smooth as a new car. I can start at idle and slowly bring it up to any rpm. Also if you have a new throttle boot this is the time to replace it. My neck is still out of joint!

One thing that is not in our forum is much on the booster. If it is leaking your brakes will be spongy when the car is running and feel ok when you disconnect the vacuum or don't run it. Also if your front or rear brakes gradually start locking up it is the adjustable rod in your booster, it is out to far and putting to much pressure on your MC. Sounds like your booster rod might not be out far enough unless your booster is going bad. I ended up replacing MC and Booster after hours of diddling....

I had a bunch picked out but coud not make up my mind so my other half picked this. ZYAL8TR

After many evenings and weekends and a "few $$$$" I finished putting it together and hit the road for the first time and what a treat, worth every bit of the effort. It sticks to the road like glue and turns heads like crazy. I actually kinda had a head ache from all the cornering, (not used to it yet!) For the first time ever driving one, (other than back in 74 as a kid) I thought it was just right, not to rough and not a bit mushy, it does not have any rattles and I thought it was quiet enough. On some of the rough roads it is a bit bouncy but thats fine. Now I know we like them so much,,,, there COOL !

Should have thought about POR since I spent a ton of $ on POR-15,chassis coat, tank sealer,manifold paint, gallons of marine clean and metal ready !! It does look permanant doesnt it. hmmm There pretty nice but not perfect.

One more to go for my slots. I used 600,1000,1500 then hit it with my 8" buffer Black, Brown and then white. Took about 3 hours each and my back is killing me! Think I'll just use Duplicolor clearcoat for wheels, anyone else use a clearcoat for these? Sunday driver so maybe I'd be better off hitting them with NeverDull everyonce in awhile... Also I think I'll put on those Falken Ziex 512 tires. They seem the best all around plus they look great.

Finally they are Fixed !!! It was the proportion valve. Took it off and it was full of crap, cleaned it out and blew air through the lines and then for the 50th time bled my brakes. I must have braked 100 times and and they don't lock up. Now on to the rest of the car!

I have not fixed my brakes yet, been working on my drag sled and have mothballed my Z for a spell. I have a 72 but it has a 70-71 MC , can't remember which size it is though. The more I think about this problem makes me believe there is something wrong with that pressure valve in the rear. I would bleed the rears and the left cyl would suck fluid with ease and the right cyl would always be kinda clogged and not get a good flow. ( I use a mity vac and suck the fluid from the MC.) Plus when the rears lock up all I have to do is open the rear valve on the MC and relieve the pressure and it's fine for another 10 pumps or so. I have a new MC and need to try and find a proportioning valve sometime soon. Once I get it back in my shop I am going to disconnect all the lines from everything and blow them out and see whats up with that valve. The way this dry winter has been going (no snow) I should be working on my Z shortly! I'll definately let everyone know what the problem was cause it really screwed up my progress on it..

Thanks for all the info. After 30 years who knows all the things that have been done to it, the guy before me didn't! So if I go to the new style I'll need a different MC, new piping, and a different sized rod to go in the vaccuum booster, crap it might be easier to pay the piper:disappoin Only place I have seen them is Victoria British ($189.00) so I'll check datsun dude like you say and couple others. Were getting a nice warm up here but the bottom is falling out next week so any trips to my woods better be soon! Thanks 2Many, I'll hunt around and see what I can find and make it worth your while if need to have you brave any poison ivy!

My Vin is HLS3078913 I'll have to investigate my options... Parts cars around Omaha are few and far between but I have time since Winter is setting in!! Maybe Santa will buy me a MC instead of something cool..dangit! Funny how an $800 car turns into $3000 real quick!! Mine also has the steering wheel that does not have the holes in the spokes, isnt that an early wheel? Thanks

Due to confusion I am starting my brake problem over. Anyone know if this an old style Master Cylinder? My Z is a 72 but from everything I can gather I have a 70-71 MC. If so I have to order the really outragously priced MC or is there a way to convert to the older Master Cylinder? I bought a rebuilt MC for a 72-76 and it did not work at all, pedal went straight to the floor no matter what I did to bleed it.

Don't sweat it. We were all new at one time.

They adjust a tiny bit. I have a similar problem. Look at the end of your door and you will see 2 bolts above the latch mechanism. You can take them or just one and see what movement you get which isnt much. Take out the 2 on the other end and you can take it completly out, kinda hard to get back in though.. If your gutsy you might try and drill a couple more holes to relocate the channel but watch the window alignment.

Hi 2Many, the rebuilt was a newer one that have the cylinders reversed in respect of the front and rear brakes. It didnt work at all, the pedal went straight to the floor no matter what I tried. I did switch the lines around to match the cylinders/brakes. I still have not purchased a new MC, taking a break on it for a bit until I figure out what I should do without wasting $150 and getting to frustrated! I bought my Z in June and it had to be towed,, so while I redid the suspension etc. I also replaced all the brakes parts so they have never worked right from the git go. Thanks!!

That sounds like a good place to look. I'll have to post an ad to see if anyone has a used rear regulator, not sure I want to mess with these brakes anymore!!! I did check the rod in the MC and made sure everything was "plunging" ok which it is. I havent had time to work on it in the last couple weeks but want to get that regulator off in the back and check it out. Thanks for that info about the adj regulator!