Dcreech0

I can’t get in touch with Randalla at this point. Would you still be interested?

View Advert 1971 240z round tops Would anyone be interested in these. Pulled them off my 1971 240z. Not sure what to ask for them but think they are upgrades to some later model su’s. feel free to pm if interested. Advertiser Dcreech0 Date 09/11/2021 Price $150 Category Parts for Sale

I opted to remove the cam to get better access to the springs and seals. I’m ocd that way. I bought one of those o spring compressors that grab the cam but was not happy with how it was working. Hard to clear the cam towers. So I opted to slide the cam out of the towers to get batter access. Hence the removal of the sprocket and chain.

I figured as much. Oh well. I guess it would be a good time to go ahead and replace the chain and tensioner. 😂

Hello all. I was in the process of change out my valve seals today and think I may have added a lot more work for myself. I had read other people’s stories on doing the same job and felt confident. Long story short I have change the valve seal as intended, but the chain tensioner lost tension even with my wedge I used on the chain. I opted to use compressed air through the plug holes to keep the valves up and while doing do it caused the pistons to move, thus moving the chain just enough, thus losing my wedge on the chain. so upon looking at what I’m dealing with now, I have the crank and the cam at tdc, but I can’t get enough chain to come up around the cam sprocket. am I going to have to pull the whole front timing cover to remedy this. I’m kicking myself in the nuts by the way (figuratively)……

I will swap them when I get home in about and hour and report what I find via video on youtube

Here is a video of the car running/Erving and the tach not working.

https://youtube.com/shorts/d5huZZpAatU?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/qyWt6QMMlF0?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/s3u_VdbvO3c?feature=share

When doing the continuity tests at the coil and ballast, yes the tach was plugged in.

I will do that now with all three and post the links for you all

It does absolutely nothing. Totally dead

The tach is the correct tach. I have read as much as I could on them and learned It is the four wire tach with the loop that reads current for the rpm.

Sorry. One more video. Will be my last. Showing what I was finding at the connection behind the tach. IMG_7385.MOV

And this is just for Steve j on the video he posted. Shows that the wire I had hooked to the positive side of the coil has continuity with the green and white wire IMG_7383.MOV

Both my black and white wires get voltage with key in the on position

Please watch and give some insight. IMG_7379.MOV

Huge kudos to you Jim. This is what makes these forums awesome. Communal support for the love of the cars. I look forward to getting this piece from you. Im sure I will have more questions for you all when I get it all wired back in.

I’m missing this piece all together. What does it control? im about to go just find some replacement ones. 😝

Just an update on this to see if I can get any insight….. I pulled the tach and checked around with a multi meter. I verified with the continuity setting that I have the correct b/w wire going from the tach to the negative terminal on the coil. I verified the green/white wire in the plug behind the tach goes to the ignition switch like it should. The other two wire should be 12v and ground correct? When I switch the ignition on I don’t see any voltage getting to the green (power) wire behind the tach. Anybody have any knowledge why? Maybe an odd fuse issue?

I would love to see what the switched look like and possibly the corresponding connections under the steering column. That would help more than you know.

Okay, will do. Could you help me figure out the headlight switch though? Haha. Sorry….. I’m trying to get the car ready for a silly inspection to get it transferred to my name. Kentucky requires a sheriff to look at the car to make sure the lights, blinkers, horn etc work.

And pictures of what I have for both switches. Just for reference