Dcreech0

I know right!!! I’m willing to put in the work and fix what is needed though. It’s a good solid candidate coming from New Mexico. Body is rust free (other than floor pans). pictures coming in about 30 minutes

Another thing to mention that I have not yet and it just occurred to me with this comment. When I bought the car, the seller admitted that the dash had been swapped out for another s30 dash. Do you think the dash harness could have been swapped with this dash as well? The dash does have the pull knob type hazard switch that’s green

Yeah. It has seen better days for sure as far as the previous owners. I know the dash has been out before and I plan on pulling it again to refurbish it. I will get those pictures posted here in about an hour when I get home from work.

Gotcha, I’m sorry. I will update that now for future posts. my car is a later production date 1971. So it’s a series 2

Yes. I do totally intend on adding the relay modification for sure. I just need to figure out where all the wires originally came from then go from there. I don’t see where the red/white wire would connect to under the dash. From looking at others pictures online I assume the red wire that’s missing off the combo switch goes here. But I don’t see a red/white wire under the dash to connect to.

So the larger gauge red/white and red wires that have unsoldered connections on the combination switch….. if I were to resolver the connections correctly, where would those two wires run to? I see pictures of unmolested units where these wires turn into bullet and spade connections? But where did they connect to so I can trace down where to wire them.

Thanks Steve J!!!

So where do the red and red/white wires go off this switch?

If most of you have ready any of my other posts you would know I’m tackling a huge wiring job on a car that was not taken care of. I am trying to figure out why my headlights were not working and decided to investigate. upon investigating it looking like some class a jimmy rigging had been done. 🤣🤣. The previous owner had bypassed the combo switch all together and ran a new switch, and added some sort of a floorboard foot switch for the high beam. Lol. Obviously I started by pulling all this junk the previous owner added but has left me with a lot of wires that are missing. The larger wires (red, and red/white) that are soldered to the top of the combo switch are just missing all together. I will attach a couple pictures of what I have to work with. Any help on pointing me in the right direction to getting my headlights working would be great….

Let me start off by thanking this community for the help they have provided so far. Every post I have made, people have provided helpful insight and solutions to all my questions….. so again thanks!!! The car is a late 71 production date 240z. I'm next trying to tackle getting my tachometer to work. I have searched and understand that a BW wire feeds a signal from the positive side of the coil to the tach. I think I have that correct but still no tach movement. The speedo, and three small dash gauges al work as they should. Where should I look next to see if I can get my tach to work? I took a couple pictures I will attach of how I have things hooked up. There is also a long branch of two wires that splits off right under the ignition coil, and I have no clue where they go as well. The colors are solid green, and B/Ystripe. Might also be worth mentioning when I got the car, the previous owner left a cut solid blue wire with a female spade connection laying in the engine bay above the coil. this car has had a rough life and hasn’t been driven for 6 years or more. Just trying to get her back to a good running state as the previous owner didn’t do to many favors to wiring. Lol

I did install an internally regulated alternator from a 280zx. When I did this though I installed the plug that msa sells for this upgrade. I thought this was to make it a ply and play affair and had the diode inside….

I appreciate any helpful input I may get from you all. I finally have my new to me 1971 240z running and idling on its own. I decided to try and tackle figuring out why my gauges were not getting power. I went to the fuse box and found a fuse missing that I think supply’s power to the dash. I placed a fuse in this empty slot and, behold the three dash gauges are all functioning as they should. Happy and relieved I went to turn off the by turning the key in the ignition. Key all the way out of the steering column and in hand, car still is running…… puzzlers I go to the engine bay and remove BOTH battery cables from the battery and the car continues to run. Baffles and confused I pulled the ignition lead to kill the motor. what could be the cause of this? Only thing I did is install a missing fuse. With the fuse out of the box, the car will shut down when I pull the key.

Would anyone in this forum know where I could locate a valve string compressor tool similar to the kd tools 3087 that’s no longer available? Would be willing to buy a second hand one if someone has one laying around. Please pm me

I have the tank out. When I wiggle the feed line on the outside of the tank, looking through the fuel sender unit hole, you can see the internal portion of the fuel pick up does not move at all. Just the exterior barb fitting

So you had this exact same issue? I wonder if this could be the source of the fuel delivery problem I have been experiencing

Hello fellow z owners. I hope I can get some insight to a question I have. I pulled my 240z gas tank to inspect the internals and clean it a little. When I pulled the rubber hose off the fuel feed line, I noticed some movement in the metal feed line on the tank. Is this normal and supposed to slightly swivel? The return line does not move in the same manner. IMG_7244.MOV

One thing to note also. After the car stalled I opened the drain plug on the float bowl and it was totally empty. Would this confirm I have a fuel delivery problem?

I do have the su carbs still. Just pulled them and did a work bench cleaning and reassemble. I did clean the mesh screens on the banjo bolts well with carb cleaner

Hello all. I hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have this 240z I’m trying to get running and am having a bit of trouble getting it to run. The car will start and then sounds like it runs just fine but does after about 20 seconds of running and then will not start again unless I let it sit for an hour or so. my first thought was rust in the tank causing poor fuel delivery. Fuel was an orange color in the filter. So this morning I ran the fuel feed line in a clean jug of fuel to bypass the tank all together (electric k&n fuel pump). This caused the same outcome. Started and sounded good for a short moment, then dies and wouldn’t start again. could someone possibly point me in the right direction to diagnose? thanks in advance to any constructive help IMG_7065.MOV

I think maybe I figured it out. Possibly.... in my attached picture diagram, the wire that shown going from the oil pressure switch to the starter solenoid.... where should this be attached to? It’s lists it should be + when starting? I had run this to the starter spade connection along with the B/Y wire

Worth mentioning also I am upgrading to the zx alternator but havnt completed that wiring yet. That wouldn’t be in part of the ignition circuit would it?

I replace the starter just out of sheer ocd. The old one looked very old and made some odd noises and cranked very slow. I just tried to go through and replace a lot of wear and tear items when I got it. Plugs/wires/coil/oil/fuel filter/fuel pump/distributor cap etc.

It sounds like the starter solenoid never disengages even after the engine turns over. Or at least I assume because it will stumble and the starter will just continue to crank. All while I stand out of the engine bay touching nothing. Obviously turning the key back to the off position stops it. The motor is still running am the dual SU carbs, but I have changed over to an electric fuel pump and deleted the mechanical fuel pump. I replace the ignition with one from MSA because I bought the car with “lost keys” (already pulled the passenger lock and got the code to call a locksmith but just wanted a new ignition switch to rule that out).

Hey! Thanks for the replies. The car always was and still is a manual car. mom the B/Y wire theory though.... wire have been cut and moved by the ballast resistor also so I though it would look. So right next the the resistor in the loom there is a B/Y wire that goes back under the brake master cylinder. It’s a female spade connection but not connected to anything at all. I am going to try and attach pictures. Also just throwing in a starter picture for reference

Hello all. I really hope I can get some positive help here i recently purchased a 1971 240z that has an l28 swap that had set in the desert a couple years not running. So long story short, the previous owner had done some really “hackery” of a job to the wiring in the whole car. I have spent the past week or so getting the car ready to crank and start for the first time. I finally got the car to start and of course idled a little rough. But my concern is that when the engine stumbles and is about to die the starter solenoid kicks back on by itself without me touching the ignition. what could be the cause of this? I have installed a new starter and a new ignition switch.