frankachino

I've been pounding my head (and forearms) all day trying to get this stub axle out to replace the wheel bearings. I've tried beating it, I've tried heating it but nothing seems to work. The other side popped out after a few whacks from the slide hammer but no luck on the other side. Anyone have any tips or tricks to get this thing out?

I'm working on completely rewiring my Z using one of the Painless harnesses. Since these don't come with provisions for the rear defroster, I was just going to use one of the spare circuits to power it. I measured the resistance of the traces and got about 29 ohms which would give a current draw of about half an amp and about 5 watts of heating. My question is, do you think this would be enough heat for the defroster to function properly, or is the resistance of my defroster too high and in need of refurb? I appreciate the help on this one!

I have the same issue with my Z right now. I discovered I had a vacuum leak at the manifold gasket. It idles fine, but the second I put load on it, it starts to sputter until higher RPM. Might check to see if any hoses have come off or are cracking. As dutchzcarguy said, it could be the vacuum advance in the distributor has gone bad.

I took out the MC and turned the nut in on the booster. There was a good bit of preload on the MC from the booster so hopefully that will fix it. I did take apart the switch and it was absolutely disgusting inside. When I first rebuilt the front calipers I noticed there was a lot of gunk in there, so I'll probably have to take them apart again... And no problemo AK! Always nice to meet new people!

I haven't had a chance to check the plunger on the master cylinder side yet, but the pedal side has a good amount of play in it before it starts actuating the booster. I should hopefully be able to take out the DP switch and check it to make sure there isn't anything gumming it up

A bit of background: A few months ago I was driving my 240 and the left front brake locked up on me. The caliper was completely seized and the pistons were not returning. I got the car home and rebuilt both front brakes with new piston seals and pads. After this the brakes were working flawlessly and I had no leaks. Fast forward to yesterday and the brakes locked up on me again. This time however, both front brakes were locked up and I noticed fluid leaking out of the top of the differential pressure switch. Left the car in a parking lot while I went to go get a trailer and by the time I got back to the car, the brakes were free and worked just fine. I tried replicating it in the garage, but no matter how many times I cycled the brakes, I couldn't get them to lock up again. I am planning on taking apart and cleaning the switch, but I am wondering if any one else has had this problem? I wouldn't think the switch would be the issue looking at how it works, but I can't think of what else could cause that.

I had issues reading temperatures when I first started working on my Z. Sometimes the gauge would work (but give bad readings) and other times it wouldn't move at all. My issue was that my connection to ground wasn't good (due to a cracked thermostat housing). You could run through 50 different temp sensors but if the grounding is bad the readings will never be reliable.

I got it from a previous project 280 I had about a year ago. The 280 had an L28et swap and it did look like the sealant on the midplate was not factory so I'm assuming when they swapped the motor, they took apart the transmission. I do know for sure its a wide ratio FS5W71B. The car that it was in had been sitting for quite a while outside in a field. It was attached to

It confused me as well. It's impossible to see how it is moving while the tail housing is installed. I did notice the fork where the striking lever engages 5th/R is much larger than the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th

Howdy EruoDat, I'm using the stick that came with the FS5.

I had also replaced those side bushings with the brass upgrades and a new bottom bushing as I thought those were the cause of the problem. It took all the slop out of the lever, but it still returns to center for the right most gears (5th and reverse). I have tried driving in 5th and it didn't pop out of gear (I haven't done much testing with that yet though). When I had it apart, I manually moved each fork and the detents were very firm. Excuse the crude drawing since I couldn't find any pictures online, but this is a cross section of my striking rod guide and what I saw. When it rotates into 1st or 2nd, the detent pin goes up that ridge and holds it there. But with 5th and R, it stays on that ledge and the force of the return spring and pin pushes it back to center.

I'm not sure if this is normal, so I figured I'd see if anyone else has the same issue. I recently swapped the 4-speed out of my 240 for what I believe is a 5-speed out of a 1977-78 280. I noticed that 1st-4th all seem fine, but when shifting into 5th, the lever will spring back into the center (where 3rd would be). It seems to stay in 5th gear, but my worry is that when trying to shift out of 5th, if I do not manually push it back to the side where 5th is, it will mess something up. I had the transmission apart before I swapped it in to do some cleaning and general checks and didn't see anything "off". When looking at the striking rod itself, the grooves for the return plug would suggest this is normal. Anyone have any experience with this?