eastcoastz

@SteveJ - just so I understand, are you saying that the test light needs to touch both of those wires (either for left or right signal) at the same time? Meaning I need to create a “Y” coming off the test light so it can touch both of those wires simultaneously? If this test does not work then does this implicate the switch as being the issue here? Thank you!

Thank you @SteveJ The test light that I’m using to connect directly to the white wire is just one of the turn signal lights. Is it correct for this not to light up fully when connecting to the white wire? I thought I should also get a “click” on the relay which I’m not getting (when connecting to the white wire). My car is a 71 240z (built in 9/71). I had one probe (from the multimeter) on the solid green wire and the other probe, I tried connecting to each of the other wires. I was not seeing any more than like .5 volts when the turn signal switch was pushed up or down. The turn signal switch is a rebuilt/refurbished one. The guy who rebuilt it sent me a video showing a light going on/off when it was moved up/down. Not really sure where to go to next. Should I try to connect a 12v line directly from the battery to the relay to see if that makes any difference? I feel like since the test (turn signal) light works when plugged directly into the green wire than it’s something with the switch… but since the guy who rebuilt the switch says he sent proof that it’s working I’m stuck between a rock. Thanks so much!

Having a weird issue that I’m having trouble diagnose and hoping someone can give some help/insight. The turn signals are not working… hazards are working just fine. When the hazard switch is off, I get 12v at the green wire going into the flasher relay so that tells me (I believe) that the hazard switch is working. If I plug a test light into the green wire (going into the relay) it lights up normally/bright. If I connect the test light to the white wire it lights up very faintly and sometimes I get a very quiet/light click on the relay. I cannot figure out why the light is so dim/faint on the white wire and subsequently why the turn signal switch is not working. When I use a multimeter between the green wire and one of the other points on the switch, the voltage drops down to almost nothing (when the switch is activated) which I’m assuming is why I’m seeing a dim/faint light (with the test light directly connected to the white wire). I have tried multiple relays and get the same result. I’ve tried an LL552 and a EF32 relay. Any ideas/suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Thank you @SteveJ I'll check that measurement. How much do you charge to rebuild/repair a combo switch?

@SteveJ - oh shoot... that's the step I forgot, I'm sorry! 😞 I forgot to move the switch to the parking light setting when disconnected. I read in another thread that I could try a jumper/wire between the white/red and green/white wires on the switch to see if the running/dash lights come on. Is this something that I should test out? If the lights come on with this test, what does this tell me?

Here's the latest update after testing the items that you ( @SteveJ ) mentioned: I tested for continuity between the two wires you mentioned. There was no continuity... is there supposed to be? I tested for continuity between those two wires on my old (cracked) switch and there was continuity, so I tried putting that one back on, but I still just got headlights and no running lights. Then I took off the old (cracked) one again, tested for continuity again and now there is no continuity. Very odd that there was continuity before I installed it and then no continuity afterwards. What's going on here? I tested both sides of the fuse and got 12.15 volts... one side was fluctuating a little bit, but I don't think it was enough to make a difference. Attached is a picture of the underside of the fuse box (right under that 3rd fuse down)... looks pretty clean to me. Where do you suggest I go from here? I'm at a loss as to why none of the running/dash lights are working. Thanks so much!

Thank you @SteveJ I will give these things a try over the next couple of days and write back. How much do you charge to rebuild/repair headlight switches? Another odd (electrical) issue if you have ideas... the inner top brake lights (top right on drivers side and top left on passenger side) are not working. All other brake lights work just fine. When I hold a multi-meter to the two contacts in the bulb socket, I can voltage on one contact but no voltage on the other (on the drivers side)... on the passenger side socket, I get voltage in both contacts, but not as high as one of the other working sockets that I tested. I would have thought that since I'm getting at least some voltage on both contacts in the passenger side socket, that the bulb would at least light up dimly, but it doesn't. Any ideas?

Hello. I have a 1971 240z... I just replaced the headlight/combo switch because the old one was cracked/not working (which is how it was when I got the car). Now the headlights are working, but the tailights, dash lights, and license plates lights, etc (everything that should come on when the headlights come on), do not work. I'm not seeing any blown fuses... is there any way to tell if this is an issue with the headlight/combo switch that I just put on? anything else to check? Thanks in advance!