Humbug

Thanks, I’ll look for it. I think I can handle the soldering, but don’t know where to buy the parts, now that Radio Shack has departed.

Yes, it was a typo. My old eyes are no longer reliable.

Yes, well aware of it. That’s a big reason I’m trying to find out the source of my clock’s problem. I’d not want to order and install a new circuit board, only to find that wasn’t what was wrong.

The clock in my '76 starts when I connect 21 volts, runs for a few minutes, and then stops. The hands do not move. I know this because I have removed it to look inside it. Everything looks clean. I lubed it with three-in-one oil, with no satisfaction. Can someone say with certainty that a new board would fix it? Joe

Yes, some, but no bubbles. I did bleed the master cylinder.

Maybe so, but it really appeals to my aesthetic sense!

I wouldn't have thought of the camera. Sounds like a great idea.

No one is available to assist me. Hence, the speed bleeders.

If you live in a dry climate....

Brake light not on. Bleeder screws on top.

I can't get the front brake circuit to produce any bubbles in the fluid. I replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, and pads and shoes. I have some resistance in the pedal, but have to push it twice for usable braking. I've been using the type bleeder that connects to my compressor and then sucks fluid out through the bleeder screw. It wasn't working, so I bought another one, different brand, with the same results. The reports of the speed bleeders are positive, so I thought I'd give that a try. They have been ordered from Amazon, so I should be back on the road soon. Thanks to all for the prompt and accurate advice. Joe

Sounds like a great idea. Thanks.

I’m not having any luck bleeding the bleeding brakes and want to try speed-bleeders. Does anyone know the thread pitch for calipers and drums?

Thank you. That is what I hoped to learn. I think I'l just put a switch to my ignition wire and hide it under the dash. Taking my coil wire off every time I go to a restaurant would be tiresome. Joe

The replies to this thread I startedhave been interesting. However, they are all sort of theoretical. No one whose Z was stolen has said how it was done. Nor has anyone who has thwarted a would-be thief said how it was done. Someone mentioned the gps trackers. One night, I got home about 10:30 to find two police cars in my driveway. Fortunately, they didn't have their red and blue lights on and, fortunately, I was not drunk.. One of them told me a woman had had her modern mustang stolen from a repair shop a few blocks away from my house, and the gps tracker pointed to my house as the location of the car. The police asked to have a looksee into my garages, where they found no mustangs. They seemed sort of blasé about the matter and said those trackers were unreliable. That was probably four years ago, so maybe the trackers are more accurate now.

I didn’t realize my question was so ridiculous. I’m currently replacing my ignition switch and am wondering how important it is to break off the special screws. That made me think of how these old cars are stolen. I see mention every now and then where someone says their car has been stolen. Sometimes they mention how, but often do not. So, I’m interested in how to protect my car against theft, and learning how cars have been taken would be helpful information.

How do thieves go about stealing an S30?

That’s pretty clear. Mine is not internally regulated. I think I’m all set now, until the next problem arises.

Good advice. Thanks.

Yeah, 14.3

View Advert Need Steering column cover (Clamshell) for '76 Will pay fair price for a nice one. This is the two pieces that surround the steering column between the steering sheel and the dash. Advertiser Humbug Date 09/22/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1976 Model 280Z coupe

Today, I cleaned the connections to the starter, put the VR back in, and everything seems to work ok. Getting 4.3 volts to the battery. Maybe a bad connection there was the problem all along. Thanks for Zed Head for the suggestion. Tomorrow, I'll check for current draw. Hopefully, it no longer exists. I'd have been really lost without the advice of you guys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Joe

I bought it on Amazon. Brand is Standard Motor Products, made in USA. What range in ohms should I set on my multimeter to check for a short circuit?

Replaced the VR and was getting 14.5 volts to the battery. Noticed smoke coming from the VR. Didn't remove it to see the exact source. I do get 12V to the stem of the T connection on the wire going to the alternator, with the key on. I'm thinking I should remove the alternator and have it checked at Autozone, where I purchased it.Another option is to just buy the ZX alternator and install it. However, the problem may not be related to either the alternator or VR. Does anyone have some sage advice for me? Thanks, Joe