dar5052

Yeah I am going to start with the easy things like test for spark and bench test each injector. Good point on removing the valve cover to see if any slipped and check the lash. It looks like cylinder 6 is still firing because the end of the plug was dry, black... but dry. If I can get it running smooth again, I will probably dump kerosene into the cylinders to soften up the rings in the event they are stuck. That might help with the oil bypassing the piston. I really wanted to keep running this motor and do all the bodywork and then build a second motor after I have a clean running car. Worst case, I'll end up rebuilding this one while I do the body work.

Finally made it back to the shop today to clean up and catalog all the parts I got with the car. Then looked around the car a little more and it looks like the engine is a reman from ATK. Still has the tags on it. I inspected the body a little more and it looks like there is some filler on the rockers but not a lot. All in all the body is solid. I then started the car and the first time it started up just fine... however, the second time it started and shut back off. I restarted it and it was running really rough, like a bad misfire on a couple cylinders. I didn't have time left in the day to start diagnosing it but I took a look around and noticed oil around the spark plug on cylinder 6. I removed the plug, which was very loose, and could see evidence of oil on the threads and around the spark plug well. I suspect there is a valve stuck open or not fully seating or worse, the piston rings are shot or seized up. Any suggestions? The car ran beautifully last week when I put it in the garage.

the front wheel gap (front to back) seems very offset? Pushed forward. When I turn the wheel, I rub on the front bumper. Perhaps its just to due to the lowering kit and the currently installed front bumper?

@Barefootdan I've read your entire post on your build and loving it!! Keep up the good work!

The more I think about it, I am considering skipping the media blast and just strip the car down to the shell and paint over the existing conditions. Seeing as the car seems fairly solid throughout, I am convincing myself out of opening a can of worms by doing the media blast. I can tell that there has been some bondo applied around the windshield area and throughout the body but nothing major, presumably to cover up surface pitting due to rust areas. As I mentioned previously, the inside of the panels feel solid. All in all, the work done to it seems like it was done correctly maintaining the proper body lines. The only reason I mention the bondo work is because I can see the sanding marks through the primer. Not a huge concern as I can work them out. Anyone have any advice? Open the can or let sleeping dogs lie?

thanks for the tips @dutchzcarguy . The pics I posted were from the previous owner but I will be sure to follow your tips! I have a few manuals that came with the car so I will be sure to read up on them. @Barefootdan Thanks for the reference and yes I am on FI. I'll read up on it!

Hello, I am new to the forum and just joined today since I picked up my first Z car today. A little about me, I live in Pennsylvania (Lancaster) and have been working on cars since before I got my license (20 years). I've done a ton of body work and a good amount of mechanical. I don't have the patience for electrical work but I am working on it. My daily driver is a Ford pickup, my other daily is a F80 M3, and I have a few Ducatis for some extra fun on the side... 😃 So as if that wasn't enough, I decided its time for a new project and picked up a '76 280Z. The car seems very straight and solid but the previous owner put the body in primer so I don't know what demons could be lurking underneath. But from feeling around the inside of all accessible panels, there is little to no rust. The floors look solid except for maybe a couple "half dollar" sized patches that need to be addressed. From the previous owners description, this is what I got: Tokico suspension (not sure what that consists of as I have not gotten under the car yet), polyurethane bushings throughout all the suspension, New Brembo brakes all around, new u-joints on axles, all new steering components (again not sure what that consists of), high flow fuel filter, new brake master, new clutch master and slave, and Rota wheels. The inside of the tank has been cleaned and sealed as well. The engine is not original but I have a stack of maintenance records for the engine in the car. Additionally, I got two extra transmissions, two complete heads, and about 5 boxes of extra parts from partouts he has done. My plans for the car are to strip it down to the shell, have it media blasted, paint it, and reassemble. This seems like a $^!# ton of work the more I look at the car but I am not a fan of the original Burnt Brown/Orange color, not sure what to call it. Anyone have any input on how bad this job actually is? I also plan to buy a block and build a complete turbo motor to swap in using one of the extra heads, likely using megasquirt but open to suggestions. The motor runs well with an occasional misfire and the driveshaft occasionally makes some noise where it goes into the trans (the first time I heard it, I thought I was scraping the front bumper on the driveway). Since I plan on pulling the engine and trans, I will do a refresh on both, any suggestions on what to look out for or what to address first? The intent for the car will be to have a good weekend driver that I don't feel embarrassed of in case someone starts looking at it closely, hence why I want to strip the shell, fix all imperfections, and do a complete paint job. That said, while I trailered the car home today, I had multiple people nearly break their necks looking at the car in its current state. I am open to suggestions and am open to hearing your thoughts, good, bad, or indifferent on my purchase. While I know proper forum etiquette and using the "search" function, please be patient if I ask any stupid questions in my haste to get the car done... Much appreciated.