Daluvian

I was doing valve covers and noticed I don’t have a even color on my cams seems like I’m running lean also on my front carb I’ve already done carb swap from dual webers to su intake gaskets. With the color tune I could never get the front carb to get a rich condition and seems to be running lean still. Compression was 150 on all cylinders five or take 2-3 psi. Values have been adjusted

Looks a jag and Z had a lab baby

I thought I’d share these 1665392330_Sep112022at34906PM.pdf 1208421006_Sep112022at35238PM.pdf

Anyone have suggestions on a good quality outdoor car cover for the 240z?

There is a mustache bar on eBay right now with brand new ones better jump on it was gonna buy it but after looking at mine we’re in great shape https://www.ebay.com/itm/265669468613?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YmFO8ONHQg6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5tQC030BQXm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I got a eagle eye hunter alignment rack I had a slightly toe in on driver rear I’m gonna try and see if shifting some stuff able to correct toe. I’ve done it on other cars before shifting the subframe to correct camber and toe it will be interesting to see if I can do the same on the Z. If anyone needs alignments in San Diego I’m very good at them and got the best rack on the market

View Advert Dual webers rebuilt with redline parts Freshly rebuilt carbs also have manifold and linkages. Rebuilt with redline parts and new accelerator pumps. They work! Will consider 240z trades. Shipping cost to be negotiated. Can provide eBay feedback and or any other Id needed Facebook ect Advertiser Daluvian Date 09/05/2022 Price $600 Category Parts for Sale

I may have the gears if your interested. I rebuild diffs prolly easily over 250 regears mostly Toyota. Do you have any pictures of the gears? a picture of the pattern of the gears would help diffs are simple but have to be done carefully and correct not alot of good diff builders left

First attempt seemed to yield good results I wasn’t able to clamp every spot. I put it in very hot water in a tray clamped, then cooled with water. Here is before and after. If anyone wants to use the jig let me know or want to buy one I can make you one. I’ll upload more pics after the next attempt to get it better

Thank you for those pics and info guys appreciate it. Just wondering if that’s opening a big can of worms. Maybe welding a plate in there to fill the gap and call it. My buddy at work has done replacement on one before and is pretty good at body gonna see what he says trading some work. it was my dads car for 15 years. Happened to be a tow truck driver at the time and the car was towed and never got picked up got a killer deal on it. Someone put alot of time into it has a color change and they didn’t miss a spot on the paint, it’s a extremely high quality paint and for being my guess 20-25 years old it still looks amazing and a buff would bring it to near new finish problem is the door drains were clogged and it rusted out the bottoms and they need replacing, have the doors not sure on color match all painters are hacks now. I believe the whole car was been taken apart at some point and restored prolly in late 90s or early 2000s

Looks pretty close car looks fine from outside but I plan on repainting it and want it right

That’s what I thought they didn’t pull the rear out enough I’m gonna have to remove the panel at some point smash down the area around spare tire area and pull it

I made a plate I haven’t tried it yet but should work gonna slowly heat and clamp

Let me know captain if u don’t need the shorter ones if you do no biggie I can make this one work. Mine is a 240z and had the short ones if you have a 280z maybe it’s the longer ones. also if people are interested I have a laser cutter I could make a gland nut socket if people are interested. Would be prolly 20$ each or so plus shipping I could get pics up before but if no interest not gonna waste my time pm me or post here most likely would be for the kyb nut unless u want to send your gland nut or take good measurements of yours Ya maybe it’s just the part number on my strut tube but at the bottom have 5d280r on passenger side I hope the 280 doesn’t mean 280z

So it looks like they sell 2 kits one is a add on a/c that hangs out the other is a heat and a/c seems the a/c and heat combo takes less space and replaced the old heater core if anyone can confirm this was looking at the kit also. Also says 70 lbs that’s a lot of weight

I didn’t install the struts so not 100 percent if they are correct for kyb. The struts were lose in the tubes I was able to get the passenger side right and snugged in there so should work.

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If someone has a kyb gland but they want to sell let me know ! I need one

1973 240z Looking to see if someone could measure from the inside center of the spare wheel to the tail light panel center? Also a pic of the backside of the tail light panel like the ones in pic and underside it would be greatly appreciated! Looks like someone replaced the panel and not sure if the underside is supposed to be spot welded looks like a gap there everything lines up fine on outside debating if I should leave it or repair it. If anyone has any advice or experience let me know Thank you

You mean like this? I was also chasing a noise in my rear. Turned out the collar (gland nut) was lose IMG_0010.MOV

I can tell you I have see both the prothane is much harder then the hyperflex. The hyperflex bushings I saw were not for a 240z but they seemed much softer witch is what I’d prefer

Anyone have any idea if these are new shocks for the 240z seems like there not by instructions saying to drill the top hat curious if anyone knows the part number or possibly what vehicle they fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/313860725388?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zvNvzpoxQie&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=5tQC030BQXm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Curious did you have the spring compressed enough when removing the nut? I didn’t see this asked maybe I missed it?

I found this on CL