NCLarry

Anyone know the size/thread for the nut for the idler pulley bolt?

I'm about 6 hours away (in NC) and I've a large area to store full cars and a lot of dry barn storage. When I lived up North a few of us collected parts cars and helped other Z owners restore and rebuild... no money changed hands... only beer, pizza, and good times... if anyone in the area wants to set that up and if the owner is willing to pass cars/parts along, perhaps we can arrange a large trailer or truck and head over, collect what we can, and store at my place... teardowns I enjoy and getting parts out to those who could benefit, especially closer to home, would be a great pay it forward... thoughts?

I believe he means to run a tap through to clear out the threads... For clearing threads, I purchased a full kit of metric tap/dies off ebay for like $5. Plus s/h.

Hmmm.. I'd hate to be using that outdoors on a windy day... :surprised

Smoke bombs.. sure.. as kids we played with these all the time. You can still get them, usually whereever fireworks are sold. They're small round (perhaps an inch around) with a little fuse. They come in different colors. On a bike, if you don't wanna harm any of the finish areas, i'd place one in a small container (think half a beer can), lite it and ride off... We used to toss them in stairwells or hallways in school (before the politically correct days and '0' tolerance nonsense).

Here's a pic of the inlet filter that fits inside the fuel pump (this is from a 77). <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1977%20Datsun%20280Z/FuelPumpFilter002.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=300 width=400> <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1977%20Datsun%20280Z/FuelPumpFilter001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=300 width=400> Incidentally, removing the pump (to clear yet another clog) has turned into a bit of a headache for me. Will the suggested pump/filter combination be adequate for the later FI years? For visual inspection, I've replaced my canister filter with the smallish plastic see-through types. Of course, after that, I get no joy with the pump (wired back up wrong perhaps?). Without hijacking this thread, if the pump is wired properly (no shorts, blown fuses), fuel should start flowing... (should see in the filter) or into a container if the line is disconnected? I'm not seeing any.. which leads me to believe wired wrong or another short... Which leads me to fusible links.. anyone got a spare black link?

Do you think? I've been doing the ERR on suspension bits (heavy rust coating) with some good success (see gallery). I did try wrapping my metal anode around some larger pieces (not touching) and but the rust still didn't break down on all sides. My best guess was the path of least resistance (elecrically) between the anode and the part still ran most current in only one direction... am i missing something? I'd love to suspend the larger pieces into a metal bucket within a plastic drum and get busy...

Do I understand this correct? You'll spend $1000 plus shipping (another 1000)have on shipped across the country, that you know has some rust (surface), doesn't run, no good interior, etc. but you'd only offer 700 for one across the street that has a 'mint' interior, no rust and is much better shape (your description)??? Why not offer the neighbor closer to 1500? Save yourself some money and get possibly a better ride...

You might want to post how the seller has represented the car.. we may find 'inconsistencies' between the pics and the statements.. it's happened plenty of times here before... Few spots that look rusty / bubling beneath... although, I personally love the bumper tow bracket.. what'd the seller say about that?

I've left beandip a pm for the diagram to make the spindle pin tool, but alas, no response as of yet. Anyone else have the diagram handy? a tool they'd care to loan out (although I'd rather make one if the materials aren't too costly). Please...

It sure does. I was SOOO happy to read the threads about the electrolytic rust removal.. it works SOO well with little/no effort. I've even picked up some of the large plastic beer tubs for the suspension arms, etc.

OK. so this IS the spindle pin then.. A friend has a spind pin remover (he made up) so I suppose its time to borrow it (at the cost of a few beers) or search the forum to make my own. Sounds like the retaining bolt (circled in yellow) just gets hammered out once the nut is removed, yes?

I'll attach a few pics to help explain. I'm in the process of seperating the rear lower control arms from the strut assembly. I'm having difficulty removing the long double-threaded (each end) rod identified as 'spindle - transverse link'. (Pic 1) <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1971%20Datsun%20240Z/ZHelp001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=500 width =600> Is this what I need the spindle-pin remover for? I thought that was for another part (not there yet??) Also, on the front suspension the 'bolt - transverse link' that attaches the lower assembly to the main doesn't want to slide out. The bolts off, but it won't go. Already mushroom one nut when 'encouring' out. (Pic 2) <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1971%20Datsun%20240Z/ZHelp003.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=500 width =600> I'm thinking to use a press? Ideas?

Im a bit north of you but have my tub ready for that step. I was gonna tackle myself (it's setup on a rotis so I can roll it into the driveway)... But, while youre getting prices, ask how much more for 2 vs 1? We could split the savings...

Hey. can you PM the where's and details? I've a good friend stationed in Japan who'll be returning later this year. Of course, he's allows to ship belongings with him on his return. He may be able to bring me a part or two...