78 280zcar

I know I havent posted on here for a while been really busy. But anyway I was just wondering how much a 78 280z goes for I am trying to sell mine it still runs like a champ but I dont think it will pass smog over here. If anyone has ever read any of my posts you would know what it looks like and how much I put into the engine alone. There is also no rust except the part under the rear hatch which is about 4" of rust which can be fixed easily.

You also might want to adjust the afm, my car was doing the same thing a while back I am not sure which way I turned the screw but it worked great!

What is the difference between the 83 maxima N47 head and the 78 N47 cylinder head. Does the 83 have smaller combustion chambers?

I'm not a carbed guy, I have fuel injection. But yes do time it and adjust valves and maybe someone else with carbs can chime on in and let you know what to do. Good luck!

What my problem is is that it doesnt seem like I have all the power that this engine should get, I cant even roast the tires. The setup is an n42 block with flat tops and a P79 head from an 81 zx, stock cam, ported out intake with a 60mm throttle body and cold air intake. HELP. It idles rough too. I will also do the timing again to see if it helps. I cant find any air leaks and all spark plugs and wires are new, so is the fuel filter and all hoses and cap!

Sounds like you need a valve adjustment!

OK, I adjusted valves and they are good to go(a little noisy, but set where they should be). Now about the timing chain gear question. Is it OK to be off a little on the sprocket and cam thrust plate marks. Thanks

Will do! I have to work in the morning but will probably do it after work. Thanks. But is it bad for the timing to be off a little on the sprocket check?

I was checking my timing on the camshaft and crank pulley at TDC. If the thrust plate mark and the camshaft sprocket mark on the back of sprocket are off a little (like 1/16th of an inch) would that make the car sputter or is it something different. Thanks in advance EDIT: also, some of my valves are a little too tight. What would this do to the engine?

Well! I take that back, it started to do it again. I was going 90mph on the freeway, (well at least the speedo says 90 but I still havent change my speedo gear in the tranny so its actually 80) well after a little while of driving just fine it started to float again, wobble from side to side(I just seem to have bad luck with my Z), but now I am looking at maybe it is my wheel bearings:stupid:, the driver side tire does make a little noise when shaking it vertically but the passengers side is fine, would that cause the car to move like that, I cant think of anything else but the struts and springs!

Just thought I would follow up with an update on whats going on. I got my new ball joints, tie rods and steering rack boots installed and an alignment and a new tire for the rear right tire and now it drives like a dream. Thanks for the great help! Shane

I am going to do it myself, I am just waiting to get the parts. A buddy of mine works at Midas and he is going to order the parts, it will be like ten bucks for each tierod. I should go ahead and change the ball joints while I am at it. I have an air hammer and an air compressor. The pickle fork can be rented from autozone right? The reason the guy at Big O told me to get dust bellows is because the ones that are on there are torn to shreds and it would be easier to change them when the tierods are off. Autozone here in turlock has them for 9.99 each, which is not bad so I am just going to get those too. I will definitly let you guys know when I plan to do this, as I will need some help. Thanks

When they called me to let me know my car was ready, they said the suspension is screwed, it needs new tie rod ends and new dust bellows. He told me after I get those installed and have them do an alignment it will drive like a dream. What is the correct way to install tie rod ends? Thanks for all the advice

Thanks for all the help guys. Last time I had my mother inlaw take it to some shop to have it aligned, they told her that it couldnt be aligned because the steering rack was leaking oil , I thought it was grease that goes in there , but they said it would be about 560.00 for the steering rack and installation. I think I mentioned this about a year ago on this site! I will take it in to Big O tires and see what they say, its only 25.00 for the estimate. Thanks

They told me to bring it back if I have any problems, but it was just some rinky dink shop that my mother in law told me about, so I will probably take it to big O tires and get them proffesionaly balanced, I got an appointment for saturday. So what would cause the uneven tire wear on the outside of the tire, is that camber?

They pretty much just slapped the tires on, I only paid 80 bucks for the set. It took them about ten minutes to do it:ermm:

I just recently bought all new tires because the front right one was worn bad on the outside of the tread. Now when I get to about 60 mph the car starts to float or wobble from side to side in the front, kinda feels like the front right tire is just flopping around. I hope thats a good explanation. Does anyone know what would cause this? Help!

Sblake, do you remember when I was telling you about how my idle was dropping to 500 and then back up to 850rpm when letting off of the gas. Well it turns out that it was the AFM set screw that was way off and turning it out (lean) was what fixed it, so I thought it might help with this mans problem. A guy that just joined this site about 2 weeks ago told me about it, (jimlhred240z). I just dont have access to an exhaust analyzer!

You say it is a 77 and you bought new condensor and voltage regulator. Does it have carbs or injection? If it is fuel injection it would probably be the CO set screw in the AFM, just remove the cover on the side closest to the coil and turn it out or in and see where that takes you, you will have to ask someone else if it has been swapped out with carbs!

Was it the inhibiter wires or the starter!

Datsun Mike, On mine there was a nuetral safety switch I had to connect the two wires together which are green with a white stripe. I dont know if it would be the same on your year, mine was a 78. Mine would not start if I had those disconnected. Hope it helps!

daddz, do you really own all of those cars on the bottom of your post:surprised and good luck with your 77

Another thing you might want to check is fuel pressure, its suppose to be 36psi! My two cents

Still having the problem even after a new switch. Help, any suggestions would be great!

Dont discourage yourself from the car. Its only a car and you can figure it out, it just takes a little patience! (and lots of beer and cursing) and the ride will pay off for itself.