78 280zcar

Just to let you all know I finally got her running today runs good, but after a while of tinkering with the timing and what not, I put a screwdriver to the injectors and found out the #5 isnt working:mad:, so I hooked a noid light up to the connector and it lite up, so now I have to get an injector:sick: . And about a month ago I sent them to witchhunter.com to get them tested and cleaned and they came back good, so I dont know what happened in between that time! Whats weird is it was running really good without the #5 cylinder so hopefully after getting my new injector in it, it will run great and I will be a happy little camper after all the crap that has happened.:classic: Just a question though is the noid light suppose to light up really dim. I checked it on the #6 cylinder connector and it lite up the same(really dim)? Oh, and I still have to turn the dist drive gear counterclockwise one more little notch! Thanks for all the help guys/gals great site!

To start off with I bought a felpro no retorque head gasket! But to be sure should I retorque it after driving for a while and after how many miles, also when should I retorque the manifold nuts?

I started to think that I read it wrong. But, no it will not scar or hurt the camshaft that is what the notches are for.

You are better off taking it to a shop, they have a drip machine to drip lube into the differential, if you dont you will be trying to fill it for about an hour and a half, beleive me I have done it and its a pain in the arse! Just my 2cents.

Thats what I meant, but he is trying to torque the crankpulley bolt, or am I wrong! Oops I meant to say crankshaft, I just now saw that.

Put an adjustable crescent wrench on the camshaft knobs in between the fourth and fifth lobes and torque the cranshaft bolt to 100 ft lbs

I will just turn it counterclockwise, thanks guys for the help

But the prolem is is that the plate where the distributor mounts to the engine doesnt line up with the hole for mounting it. I know it only goes in one way but the way it goes in doesnt work. Its hard to explain, I will try to post some pics tomorrow.

Anyone know how to set the static timing on a 280z 78. I have everything in the right spot but the rotor is not lining up with the #1 spark. I had this problem before when I was putting the distributor in and I just turned the distributor drive gear two notches counterclockwise but I want it right this time. I have the drive gear perfect but when the distributor is in, the plate doesnt line up with the locking screw hole and the plate is turned as far as it will go, what do I do. I was hoping if I just adjust static before starting the engine I could get it to fit in. Also there is a mark on the distributor cap, does this indicate #1?

Yeah I cant really afford one of those head gaskets! I just really want to get the car running right now. If you have read any of my other posts you will find out why I cant afford too much more on this engine after all the crap I went through with the N47 head and what not. But back to the question at hand, is this deck height normal, I want to put the head on but need to find out if this is normal for the pistons to portrude that much? Got another question, since I am putting on a P79 head and F54 pistons into an N42 block. Do I buy a head gasket for an 81 zx or do I buy a head gasket for a 78 280z? I was looking them up on partsamerica.com and they have different part #'s for the two.

Jmortenson, you have to hit the quick setup for an L28 on the lengine with a P79 head and flat top pistons. I dont know if that makes a difference but I just noticed that when I first pulled it up it says for an L24 block and an E31 head it has .080.

On my lengine.exe it says .030 deck height! Which lengine do you have. I did a search on those head gaskets and I am not sure I want to do that, my wife is already getting pissed because I put too much money into it already, not to mention that she is jealous because I spend more time with the car than I do her . I told her I cant help it if I love my car more than youLOL.

Hey ED, so that is normal for an F54 block also. I am going to be using that P79 head I have been talking about in the other posts. I am just worried about these pistons going over and smacking my new valves:paranoid: .

I have heard of HKS gaskets but where do you buy them? Arent they metal gasket? My block is straight but is not uniform for a metal head gasket! From what I understand is that the block has to be perfect for metal head gaskets. On mine there is a little scoring on it from coolent over a period of time. Right now it is a little hard to explain as I had 20 too much to drink! Day off so to say! I am definitely going to do some more measuring on the pistons and block deck.

Seriously, anyone know!:disappoin

Same with my thumb it hurt like a bitch and I think I cracked a bone or something, but I laughed at myself for not even thinking before doing it.

I just had to reply to this thread! I did the same thing that enigma did when trying to get the pistons out of the caliper, I had my thumb in between the two pistons though and wasnt expecting it to come out that fast and whammm, smashed the hell out of my thumb. Its a good thing my compressor is just a small one that holds 100psi instead of the one they have at a shop!:stupid:

Also does anyone know the thickness of a felpro head gasket?

I just put my flat tops into my N42 block. Is it normal for the piston to go a little past the top of block about .021 of an in. :paranoid: Thanks I forgot to mention that these are flat tops and rods from an F54 280zx block!

here is another place to check out since it is pretty much a 75 260z right, it was made in september you said. It couldnt hurt to try instead of changing everything around, unless you want to go that route. I search as many places as I could find and no luck neither. http://www.datsunzparts.com/netscape/gascompnew.htm It says 78.38 US, AUD would be 106.27 it looks like, do I got that right

So there is no hole in the front bearing for the tensioner? I just want to make sure before I put the pistons in and get everything back together, if I have to take the crankshaft back out.

Well there is suppose to be holes on all of the bearings that go into the block as you mentioned (not for the cap bearings), but in that book I mentioned, he says that there is an extra small hole on the front bearing that is suppose to feed the chain tensioner:nervous: . But I could not find anything about it in the FSM. Hopefully it is just for the four cylinder he was working on in the book. HELP, Yikes

Well would it really make that big of a difference if you used that one or not. That one is only 37.30 US dollars and 50.51 AUD. Its cheaper!

I was reading the how to rebuild nissan/datsun engines and he says that the front bearing has a little hole to feed the chain tensioner, is that only for the 4 cyl. he is working on or does the L28 have that hole too, if it does I might have to take my crankshaft out to see if I put the bearing in the right place:paranoid: I cant find anything about that hole in any books or in the FSM I have!

I was bored this morning and came across this I hope it helps a little. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=25060-S30