cbuczesk

That one's really rough. How often do you see the hood and fender tops rust like that? I've bought a lot of rusty Zs and that one's bad. I try to save every Z but that one looks like a parts car. Chuck

Cool! I have vendor spaces F78-F82. I usually have a couple Datsun flags flying at my spots. Chuck

Can yours be rebuilt? My friend has owned and raced Zs (using SU carbs) since 1971. He can rebuild them if you're interested. You can email him (Jeff Lucas) here: jlucas@kuhncom.net Chuck

That rule is the SCCA club racing rule. It doesn't matter for track days. Do whatever you like but they may be forced to pull your car in a way that you don't like. Chuck

Some of my red interior panels had faded nearly to white. I took all of them out including the door panels, cleaned them very well, wiped them down with lacquer thinner and then applied SEM red vinyl dye. That was several years ago and it still looks great today. You can repair your cracked panels and dye them with SEM white or get some good used panels in any color including black and dye them white. I have a white rear side panel that after closer inspection I discovered was originally black. SEM products work very well! Chuck

My brother is the event manager for the show and told me today that he needs a couple nice cars for the Invitational Display. The cars are all kept inside and roped off from the public and the building is locked at night. If your car is selected there is no cost to show your car and you will get two passes to get into the show for all three days. He's looking for classic imports of any kind but they must be very nice, very rare and/or very interesting. For example he's had a Datsun fire truck, Scarab Z, custom turbo 260Z, a couple 240Z race cars, etc. Other cars that I remember are a 5.0 Volvo wagon, a 1966 Volvo P1800 with almost 3 million miles, some TV cars, etc. Another way to get in for free is to show a race car. Show your race car and you get 2 people in for free and it includes on-grounds trailer parking. All race cars are kept under the pavilion which is nice since many of them don't have windows and some don't have roofs. This link shows some of the cars entered for the Invitational Display (Bldg T) and race paddock (Pavillion). There's a link for "the invitational submission form" in the paragraph at the top. http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals-invitationals.aspx I will be there with 5 vendor spaces of mostly Z parts and I'll probably bring my 240Z race car, 78 620KC and maybe the Pantera and Lotus. FutoFab was there last year and I hope this year too. You can expect over 2000 show cars, 200+ parts vendors, autocross, drifting, rolling exhaust competition, burnouts and more - See more at: http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/default.aspx#sthash.AF1n6jlD.dpuf http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/default.aspx Chuck

If I were going to buy it I would pay maybe up to $4000. There's heavy rust that we can see and some of it is in tricky places to repair like around the fuel door and door bottom with the curve. I can see rust pushing through the body filler in the dog legs and lower fenders. There also appears to be a lot of filler in the quarters as seen around the rust holes by the fuel filler. I've worked on a lot of rusty Zs here in PA and I think you'll find a lot of rust hidden under the body filler in the quarters. I hope you can get $7k but don't be surprised if it brings $2-3k. Chuck

I agree with Chickenman. The OP should have street pads/shoes for the street/race and race pads for the track. Get new race pads/shoes and new rotors/drums. Bed in the pads/shoes with the new rotors/drums and use that for the track and swap everything back for use on the street. I installed new pads, rotors, shoes and drums at the track on Friday and it didn't take long. Chuck

It attaches to the bumper arm mounts. They share the same bolts. IIRC the tow hook arm zig-zags upward to clear the valance/air dam. It has to be easily accessible, labeled and have at least a 2" diameter hole. No tracks in the US should have ponds or mud bogs that a car could ever get into. The tracks do a good job of building walls to keep us contained. If the tow hooks can't be used then they'll find a way to pull us out. They have better than average tow trucks. Here's what the SCCA rules say: All cars without an exposed roll bar shall have a towing eye or strap, front and rear that does not dangerously protrude from the bodywork when the car is racing, to be used for flat towing or hauling the vehicle. A removable towing eye carried inside the car is not acceptable, except in formula cars and Sports Racing cars. These towing eyes or straps shall be easily accessible without removal or manipulation of bodywork or other panels. Towing eye minimum ID 2 inches. The required tow eyes must be strong enough to tow the car from a hazard such as a gravel trap. Front tow eye may be mounted in the driver/passenger side window openings, or any location forward of the windshield. If mounted in the driver/passenger side window openings, it must be attached to the forward roll cage down tube as close to the base of the windshield as possible. If the front tow eye is located in the side window openings there shall be one on each side of the car. Rear tow eyes must be accessible rearward of the rear axle centerline. Chuck

Here's their web site: http://ctbrakes.com/ Email them with what you want the brakes to do and they will suggest a type of pad and shoe. Chuck

An Auto-x pad should work without needing to be warmed up much but then they won't last very long on a track. Why not just get some track pads and use them? You need a lap to get the tires (and driver) warmed up anyway. I use Carbotech pads and shoes and I've been very happy with them. Chuck

Based on my experience of being pulled at the track I think attaching it to the center of the radiator support would be a bad spot without some bracing. I expect that it would be pulled forward and could end up damaging your radiator. My front hook is attached to the bumper mount on the left side. In the rear it's attached to the right bumper mount. I was pulled out of the gravel using the rear hook and it tweaked the rear panel. In my pictures you can see the red read hook just below the bumper on the right side. In the front pic you can see a big loop under the bumper on the left. That was a home made hook from back when I bought the car. I replaced it with a stronger one but kept it in the same location. Chuck

*deleted*

A catch can for what? I use one for the radiator, cam cover and diff on the race car. I use old 1qt oil bottles or something similar. They work just fine, are cheap, lightweight and easy to find. Chuck

We've been using the ITM pistons in our race cars and they've held up well. Chuck

HANKOOK VENTUS Z214 225/45ZR-15 RACE/TRACK, C51 MEDIUM tires - Set of 4 tires. Used for 5 weekends last year. Great shape with lots of life left. $250 plus shipping. Chambersburg, PA Chuck cbuczesk@comcast.net

1978 Datsun 620 King Cab Deluxe - $5500 I searched for a long time to find this one but I'm moving soon and won't have the space for it. It's great little truck and I've put a lot of time and money into it. I'll include some new parts that I haven't time to install such as new ACC carpet and tires. PM me if interested. Chambersburg, PA http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/5515873153.html Chuck cbuczesk@comcast.net

It may have leaked a little into #1. When that happens it'll steam clean the head and piston. Chuck

The 74-76 panels have a different texture pattern and the opening for the door lock is farther back than the 77-78. You can swap them but the texture is slightly different and you'd have to modify the lock lever/location. Chuck

Yes. Chuck

Having a bill of sale might work in Canada and some states but it doesn't work here in PA. I have to give them the PO's title to get a PA title in my name. :-( Chuck

The dash vin doesn't really matter. This has been discussed for years on the mopar boards. The number stamped on the firewall is what matters. A cop, dmv, inspection station, etc. might look at the dash vin first. In PA they want either a pencil tracing of all vin locations or they will inspect the car for all vin stampings. If any vin differs from what's on the firewall then you have a problem. The title doesn't match the firewall vin then you don't own that car. If seller here has a title for #60 then he owns that car and not the one for sale here. Trying to get that into the states and titled would be a major headache if possible. But maybe he has the title for #72. In that case I'd ditch everything for #60 and sell it as-is with the #72 documentation. Chuck

Do you have any of the ID plates for #72? Do you have a title for #72 or #60? If you don't have the engine room ID plate then we can't say that engine 2192 is the original. Chuck

I used SEM NAPA Red on plastic panels that had started to fade to white. It's been several years and they still look great. It shouldn't cost anywhere near $100 to go this route. I used one can...two at most. Chuck