cbuczesk

I think that the backing plates are the same. The location where the hard metal line connects on the wheel cylinder is different and the hard metal line is different. I was able to bend the hard line (early?) a little to get it to connect to the other (later?) wheel cylinder. You can do that or get the matching hard line/wheel cylinder. Chuck

With the car on the ground and suspension settled, is there much suspension movement in the rear on the higher side? Maybe the wrong strut is in there and is compressed at that point. Are you sure that the springs are the same? Count the number of coils and measure their thickness. With the car in the air and wheels removed measure the distance from the wheel well lip (see Zed Head's pic) and the center of the hub. Are they the same left to right? If you push down on the wheel studs with your foot does it feel like the suspension has dropped all the way down? If the strut assemblies are the same length, the insulators on the top are the same length and the suspension is fully stretched then it has to be the strut insert limiting the wheel drop with the car in the air. Am I wrong? Chuck

I believe the answers are yes and yes. You could try painting the pointer silver and then mist some gold over it and then top it with clear. Chuck

Take some measurements of the strut assy that Zed Head circled. Check the length below and above the spring perch and compare left to right. You can reach up to the top to feel if the insulators feel like they're the same length. The 280Z insulator is noticeably longer. If all of that checks out then maybe the springs are different lengths and/or stiffness. Chuck

The issue with doing it that way is that you lose the dimples created when the panel was spot welded. Another option is to weld metal to the edge of the hood. Chuck

I think when he was taking it back to the shop he said it was a 1978. Somebody needs to do some fact checking before the show goes on air. I wonder how many mistakes have been made on other episodes. But it was good to see a Z on the show. I wish he had found the 1969 Z that Garage Squad modified and they had "rescued" the 2+2. Chuck

I have an AT flexplate. Send me an email to remind me to get it tonight. I'll send you a couple pictures of it. Chuck cbuczesk@Comcast.net

PA cars aren't a little rusty. They're a little metal-ly. Chuck

You'll probably have to get a quarter from a donor car. Repairing it shouldn't be a big deal. But if the rest of the car needs a lot of metal/rust repair then I'd pass. Chuck

What's your question? It looks like someone was planning to install aftermarket quarters. I used to have 20+ set of those but sold them over the years. Are you in Centralia, PA? Chuck

Put your timing light on plug wire #4 to see if you have spark. Chuck

The 70-78 Z body is pretty much the same up front even for the 2+2. I didn't read that link but if the air dam and bumper fit a 240Z then it can be made to fit a 1976 280Z 2+2. The biggest challenge would be making the two front bumper mounts work. The 240Z is a solid piece of metal where the 280Z uses a shock and I believe the 240Z uses 2 bolts on the body where the 280Z uses 3 to attach the mount. If you have a welded and some basic skills it's not a big deal. Chuck

I'd stick with the stock brakes and go with better pads and shoes. It's a lot of time, money and effort spent for something that is essentially for appearance. I just installed a 4-wheel kit and wasn't impressed with how it gets installed. It was a challenge to get the parking brake to connect but I got it. The instructions also have you installing the rear calipers up side down and thus requires you to remove them and flip them upright to bleed. What a PITA! Installing the rear bracket can be a real PITA too since you have to remove the brake backing plate which might require removing the rear stub axles. But once you get it done you'll get to buy and install your new 15" or larger wheels/tires. Years ago I put a Modern Motorsport 4-wheel kit on my 1974 260Z turbo. Everything on the car was taken apart and rebuilt so it really wasn't any extra work to install the disc kit. I was happy with the MM kit. Good quality and design. But looking back I should have just gone stock but changed the pads/shoes. If you have an unlimited budget then go for it. Otherwise, the 4-wheel disc kit should be one of the last "upgrades". Chuck

Do you need a defroster? If not then I guess I wouldn't worry about it. The vents screw to the bottom of the dash. The duct runs from the heater box to the vents. I'm surprised that they didn't use the defroster vents. You should probably talk to your installer about your concerns. Chuck

Put the trans in 4th gear. Remove the shift knob, remove/disconnect the door over the fuse box, remove the ashtray and remove the screws. Heater control panel and shift boot stay attached. You'll have to disconnect the choke cables from the carbs if you want to do more than just move the console around a little. This all from memory so someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Chuck

The cowl panel has closed cell foam pads on both sides. If your pads are missing then it could help to lift the cowl. Most likely the pads are there but over the years the edges of the cowl panel have been pushed down. People lean on them, rest things there, etc. I'm always working on my race car and rest tools and parts on the cowl They bend very easily. Chuck

You're not too far from me. My gf lives in Smithsburg so I'm down there often. I'm Chambersburg, PA. Chuck

I'm not aware of any patches being made. You'll have to make them or cut them from a junked car. Show some pics of your rust areas. Maybe I have something used that I've saved. 20g is pretty easy to form. 18g can get tricky if there are compound bends. Chuck

The Z that I just finished was a little different. The fenders and one HL bucket were aftermarket and didn't line up well. Also the nose had been smacked at one time. Since the fenders had flares molded into them I was kind of stuck with what I had. Additionally, I was using a pearl metallic paint so all of the panels should be done on the car. I got everything to line up on the car and then took it apart and used epoxy primer and some black paint on the hidden areas. Then I reassembled the panels and painted the body. It came great but it's a lot of work. The edges of the cowl can be flexed up or down an 1/8" if you work carefully at it. I made a hook and pulled up the cowl edge. You can try tapping the fender down too. You also have to get the hood the align with the cowl, inspection lids and fenders. Take your time and keep working at it. Where are you in the Mid-Atlantic? Chuck

If you don't care about MPG then why swap to a 5-speed? Anyway, like Pmg said any 77-83 Z 5-speed will bolt right up. The T5 is probably different but those rare and harder to find. You can probably get some new ITM flat top pistons or a used set from an 82-83 280ZX. That's probably your biggest bang for the buck performance wise for the engine. Chuck

16g will be hard to form. I believe that the body is 20g and "frame" is 18g. The hatch floor might be 18g but I'm pretty sure that the front inner fender are 20g. I have no trouble MIG welding 20g. Chuck

Yep. I've done that 2-3 times. The car I'm finishing now was repaired by using some metal mesh, a rag and bondo all stuffed into that cavity. A couple big wood screws held the fender on. Chuck

Set it at 2.5 turns down. Have you checked timing? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Are you running points or electronic ignition? Chuck

Since you know how to raise and lower it...raise it all the way to close off fuel. Then lower it 2.5 turns and you should be set. Chuck

I'm not sure. That's from memory from a few months ago. But I don't remember having to use anything "heavy". I just looked at the instructions and it didn't specify a size. Use the same size that they used or larger. Just don't use smaller. Chuck