cbuczesk

There's a seal that goes on the bottom of the door to seal it with the rocker. That's in the Precision big bag of rubber if you got that. Chuck

Does the door rattle or the door glass? It's probably the glass. Some new window felt and channel along with the door glass roller should fix it. MSA has that stuff. Black Dragon probably does too. Chuck

I think that the thin metal parts in pics 3&4 are for the seat belt retractors. I don't remember ever seeing the part in pics 1&2 but the fuel pump is located near it so maybe it's something for that. Chuck

What part of MD are you in? I get down to Smithsburg most weekends and could maybe give you a hand sometime. Chuck

From what I understand the pistons are tapered. Narrower at the top so they can expand properly when they get up to temperature. The skirts don't get nearly as hot. I don't know how much taper there should be. Chuck

Thanks! I'm glad the 911 gave me room in turns 1&2. Chuck

Here's a short clip of the start of Sunday's race. The 944, RX-7 and I (240Z) are the front 3 in the ITS class. We have some ITA, ITR and other cars mixed in. The 944 goes a little too fast into turn 1 and into the dirt. He's ok but tries to come back on track and things get ugly. I went a little to fast in turn 2 and almost T-boned the yellow car. The very fast RX-7 survives and goes on to win and I finish 2nd. The 944 driver said his car was toed in and quit but I think he was embarrassed and called it a day. Three other cars were knocked out including my friend, John Legg, in his ITA Miata. http://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=UZdMQ5EqlLg&u=/watch%3Fv%3DAGlvBo2tUd4%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner Chuck

We fly by a black 280Z and it's on the right. He was having fuel pump issues and coasting in to the pits. He's really fast this season and was probably leading before that happened. The clutch was an old Centerforce. I just replaced it with a Centerforce II. Glad you like the video! Chuck

I just put a Centerforce II on my 1972 240Z ITS race car. I really like it. It might be a little stiffer than stock but I can't really tell. It's very easy to use much like the stock clutch. My 1972 240Z turbo has an ACT clutch. It's tricky to drive because it grabs so hard. It's a little like an Indy car where you have to rev the engine a lot when you release the clutch so it doesn't stall. Unless I really needed that stiff of a clutch I wouldn't buy it. The Centerforce II was the right choice for me. Chuck

Try Carbotech. We run them on our 240Z and 280Z race cars. They have different compounds so it's best to call to see what they recommend. Chuck

It's a stock 4-speed from a 1972 240Z. We can use any manual transmission that came in a US market 240Z. The RPM drop from 2nd to 3rd is tough. The rest are ok. Chuck

I've been towing my race car for 4 years now. I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 with the Hemi and 3.92 gears. It has a heavy fiberglass cap. I started with a bed full of spare parts/tools and pulled an open trailer. Maybe 600 lbs of parts, tools, etc. Trailer and car weighed about 3900 pounds. I had no trouble towing that and got a best of 17.5 mpg. Typical mpg was 14.5. The trailer has brakes. I recently hauled a 3500 lb AAR cuda and had no trouble even on long hills. Last year I bought a 20' enclosed trailer. Trailer and car weigh a little under 6500 lbs. I have an Anderson WD/anti-sway hitch. Love it! I've also installed air bags on my truck to keep things level. I have no trouble on the flatter road but the truck has to downshift on hills. Going to VIR and Pocono I have to pull some long hills and the turck has to work. It does it fine and I can maintain 55mph. I get about 9.5mpg pulling the enclose trailer. I suggest getting at least 3.55 gears unless you get a nice diesel then gears won't matter. Get some kind of WD hitch with anti-sway. If the back of the truck sags then get air bags. Pump up all tires to the max. LT tires help too. You'll want a brake controller and maybe some tow mirrors. In normal driving I get 17-21mpg without a trailer. The 2013+ Hemi Rams have 8-speeds and would be an excellent choice. Another option is the Ram 1500 EcoDiesel. Guys on their forum have gotten over 30mpg and close to 20mpg pulling something like you have. 3.55 gears on either of those would work fine for you. I'm considering an EcoDiesel for myself. Chuck

Here's a short clip from this past weekend where we just miss hitting a slowing 280Z and I finally catch and pass the 911. https://youtu.be/MsdoBB1fSQM Chuck

I used to own a 1996 Maxima SE, some Nissan 720 trucks, a couple Datsun 620 trucks and BMW 2002s. I guess those are "normal". But I've always owned at least one Z. I still have my first car - a 1975 Datsun 280Z that I bought in 1986. My current normal car is a 2006 Dodge Rame Hemi that I use to haul the race car - a 1972 Datsun 240Z. My next normal car will probably be a Ram EcoDiesel. I'm just not into "normal". I'm thinking of getting a beater car but I wouldn't call a Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V a normal car. Here are my abnormal cars: 72 BMW 2002 tii 74 BMW 2002 turbo 70 Plymouth AAR 'cuda 70 Plymouth Road Runner 440+6 05 Lotus Elise supercharged 74 DeTomaso Pantera 69 240Z 71 Fairlady Z 71 240Z 72 240Z race car 72 240Z turbo 74 260Z turbo 75 280Z turbo 75 280Z (my first car) 78 620 king cab Chuck

Where are you in PA? I'm not sure what the NOS parts are worth but you can see if any have sold on ebay. FutoFab and others are selling new aftermarket bumpers that are pretty nice for $300 or so. To get a bumper rechromed would cost $300-350. I hope that helps a little. Chuck

I don't think it's a crack. I think it's a shadow. Hard to say from the picture though. And I'm not sure if that's JB Weld either. It could be a liquid sealer used when the connector was threaded on. Both are worth a closer look. Chuck

If it's a 0 offset they should fit fine. No need for a coilover kit. Same for 15x7 wheels. Chuck

ACC has loop for a 1977. I like their carpets. http://www.accmats.com/ Molding the carpet to the floor, rocker and trans tunnel would be a challenge to do yourself. I'd get the ACC kit and be done with it. I just put their 1975 280Z kit in a 1971 240Z. The front carpet is in 2 parts and each goes from door sill to door sill and covers the inner rockers. The seam is at the front seat mount. And there's the piece for the hatch area. It looks like you can get a kit that also covers the rear shock tower area too. For pics of the carpet in the 240Z click below. If that doesn't work seach FB for "Chuck Buczeskie" and it's in the album "Ken Baudoux's 1971 240Z project". https://www.facebook.com/#!/chuck.buczeskie/media_set?set=a.10202175740902094.1446173526&type=3 Chuck

I know that it puts out over 5psi. I'll try to get a pic of it tonight. Chuck

I'm using a Summit Racing electric fuel pump (probably made by Holley) and their fuel pressure regulator on my race car with 2 SUs. Works great. Chuck

What about using a longer threaded collar? Chuck

Here it is. Purple/blue velour and green seats. The dash was covered but the PO removed it. Carpet is gone now. I should probably restore it back to its 1970s look. :-p Chuck

I'll see if I can get some pics for you. But remember...once you see it you can't unsee it! Chuck

Hey Captain, I believe the cut pile started in 1977. IIRC, my 74, 75 and 76 all had loop but my 77 had cut pile. Use whatever carpet you like. My 1971 Fairlady Z has blue shag with purple velour on everything else. You could do something like that with your car. ;-) Chuck

Ron Coover in Shippensburg is the blaster (717) 532-6540. They also do body and paint. We've used him for smaller things but he has a large building for blasting. I'd guess about $500 to do a car. Chuck