cbuczesk

I wish you were closer. I have a blaster local to me who can do an entire car and I've replaced many floors, etc. on Zs. Captain O - PA DMV? Why not use your local notary place? Unless I pick a bad time I'm done in less than 20 minutes. Quick story: Back in Jan I had to go to our local PA DMV for a new photo license. I ran over after work and there must have been 50 people sitting around and waiting. OMG! I signed in and on my way to a waiting chair my number was called. I was in and out in less than 10 minutes total. I can't imagine what those 50 people were thinking as they watched me leave. :-o Chuck

I'm with Sean and Chickenman on the brakes. Stock is great. Just get some good pads. We use Carbotech (http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Nissan) on our race cars and they work very well. Sean made a good list. The only thing I'd change is to use urethane and rubber for the TC rod bushings. The MSA kit that uses an aluminum and ABS ball and socket is good but the ABS ball part has a short life (cracks apart). I have that ball/socket on my race car and it's still ok after 2.5 years. My friend has used that combo for years but now is running the urethane/rubber setup. Chuck

I might have a plastic tank in good condition. Anybody know what it's worth? Chuck

When we disassemble transmissions for rebuilds we use a strong, little magnet on a stick to pull out the spring and ball. Chuck

I think the gear reductions starters are from the 82-83 280ZX. Chuck

Or you could have done a what a PO of my '69 Z did and drill holes in the hatch until you find the right spot to push the lever. :-( Chuck

That's the shoulder mount for 70-75 Zs. IIRC they all had the bolts showing. No covers. In 76 they mounted the retractor to the top of the rear strut tower and had a plastic cover over the retractor. Chuck

You'll make more money if you part it out but that takes time and you might be left with some parts that don't sell. How badly do you need the money? How badly do you need your time? Chuck

Just curious but why use MAACO for $4000 of insurance work? I've been hit and had hail damage a couple times and the insurance covered having a good shop do the work. Chuck

Nice Z! I was thinking of buying that one. What transporter did you use and how much was shipping? That looks like a nice carrirer. My Pantera was deivered in one like that but most of the roof was missing. Chuck

That doesn't seem right at all. I'd give them a call to let them know. Maybe someone returned it and kept the metal parts? I can't believe that they or any specialist shop would sell that. How much was it? Chuck

You need to clean the diff better so we can see where it's leaking. Use some brake cleaner and a rag. Then check it after you drive it. It could be a side seal(s) from the looks of it but it's hard to say for sure. Could be from the vent tube. Chuck

Pennzoil Synchromesh. You need an oil that works with yellow metals such as Datsun's brass syncros. Redline works too. Chuck

I agree. That doesn't look too bad. Maybe grind down the welds a bit. After some primer, paint and undercoating it should look pretty good. Chuck

I live less than an hour from Harrisburg. If there's enough interest I could try contacting them and take a Z up there. Chuck

If yours are missing or damaged then water will get into that pocket, eventually rust through and then water can enter the cabin. Here's a picture of one that a mouse was eating. Chuck

I'd get a stainless muffler. I have a local garage that does a lot of exhaust work and they have been able to recommend mufflers to me. See if you have a good exhaust shop in your area and see what they say. I'm not sure what the stock size is. Maybe 1 3/4"? Chuck

Muffler should be the quickest and easiest. Chuck

Actually, if you take the car with you when doing the title transfer someone (a notary) can come out and look at the vin. I recently did that with my Datsun truck. BTW, there's no dash VIN on the truck from the factory. Chuck

Is it coming to the East Coast? Chuck

That Z looks sweet! I'd keep it stock too. You might want to install electronic ignition but that's the only change I'd make. Where are you in PA? Chuck

I did some digging. Driver name on the door is Gail Woodworth and car number was #99 and raced CP in 1979 out of Oregon. There's also Jerry Murch racing a 280Z at the same event in 1980. Same number, colors and sponsor. http://www.oregonscca.com/media-library/documents/vintage/rc079c.pdf http://www.oregonscca.com/media-library/documents/vintage/rc080c.pdf Chuck

I bought some inexpensive LEDs off ebay and installed them in my 620. They're so white and bright that the green lens has almost no effect. The LEDs are too long to install in the tach because they hit the green lens. I have one LED partially resting in the socket and nothing in the other socket and it's still much brighter than when I had two bulbs in there. The LEDs are amazing. I can read everything on the tach and speedometer. I can even read the odometer at night. If you want the green light then I suggest getting green LEDs. The green lens does nothing. Chuck

I had the same thing happen on my race car last year. I'm sure that I tightened that nut and double checked it but somehow it came loose and the "bolt" backed down until the rocker and lash pad fell off. But that's as far as it went. The keepers and everything else stayed in place. I also wonder what made your keeper pop out. Maybe as the rocker was exiting it pushed the retainer down but the valve stayed in place allowing the keepers to pop out? Chuck

Can you order some springs and shocks for me? That's a great price! We use those wheels on our race cars and really like them. Chuck