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cbuczesk

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Everything posted by cbuczesk

  1. cbuczesk
    Generally speaking if you're looking for "comfort, reliability, and A/C" then I'd say go for a 280ZX. It really depends on your budget and skills. Chuck
  2. cbuczesk
    240tom email me if you need a fuse box cover/ash tray. Chuck cbuczesk@comcast.net
  3. cbuczesk
    The situation wouldn't have been reversed. I wouldn't have backed out of a deal. I'm posting this in public so others can be aware that you could back out at the last minute. Chuck
  4. cbuczesk
    On Wednesday I offered $500 and you accepted. I made plans for my brother and friend to get the parts today. You emailed me yesterday??? Yeah, last night at 9:22PM and I didn't see it until after 11PM! My brother had his trailer hooked up and engine lifted loaded. You told me Wednesday on the phone that it wasn't about the money. It was about clearing space in the basement. But now you're backing out so you can make more money? $500 is a fair price for what you're selling as a parts lot. I told you before we agreed to a deal that you could get more by selling things individually but you wanted to get rid of everything. Yes, you have the right to decline an offer but backing out days after a deal's been made isn't cool at all. Chuck
  5. cbuczesk
    Couldn't they be the original cables with the black plastic removed? The bends at the end look as nice as factory bends. And if you replaced the factory cables with generics then why put in the factory bends and also do the "custom" loop at the end? Anyway, I'd replace them with the correct platic covered cables. Chuck
  6. cbuczesk
    I want to warn everyone on here that this guy is a flake. I told him that he could get more if he takes the time and effort to clean the parts, take pictures and sell them individually. I made plans to buy everything for $500 a couple times and yet he posted in this thread that he still had everything for sale. I made plans with my brother and a friend to get them tomorrow. Backup plans were to go up with my gf on Saturday to get them. I just got an email from him saying that he changed his mind and is selling the parts separately to people on here. Just a heads up that he might agree to sell parts to you and then at the last minute sell them to someone else. Chuck
  7. cbuczesk
    Where are you in PA? Chuck
  8. cbuczesk
    Who said, "Waste of money to get the exact suspension set-up you want and the ability to change it to suit future needs?" Where did that come from??? It's a waste of money if he's "not interested in racing the car, just improving performance and stance". Chuck
  9. cbuczesk
    There's no need for a coil over kit on a street car. It's just a waste of time and money. Get some shorter spings and a set of sway bars like the guys above said. The bigger bumpers were required starting with the late 1974 260Z. They changed again for the 1977-78 280Z. They are much heavier than the 1970-72 240Z bumpers and brackets. Chuck
  10. cbuczesk
    It will cause them to wear faster but I'm not sure that it's going to wear them much faster. We use 10-15mm spacers on our race cars and we don't have any bearing issues. Chuck
  11. cbuczesk
    My 74 uses 1975 EFI and my 72 uses 82 turbo EFI. If you have problems with the FAST you can always go back to the ZX turbo stock EFI. Chuck
  12. cbuczesk
    The car looks pretty good to me. I expect the wheel arch rust to require some work to properly fix. I don't know anything about the FAST setup. I have an early 260Z with a turbo setup and love it. It looks like a pretty solid little project at a good price. Chuck
  13. cbuczesk
    240Z, 260Z and 280Z calipers are all the same. Chuck
  14. cbuczesk
    I know how my 15x7 wheels w/225 tires fill up the fenders so I just can't see a 10" wide wheel and 255 tire fitting without a major rub. You might want to consider getting a set of the Rewinds ($400 or so) and using someone's old race tires ($100/set?). I wish I could help more but we're limited to a 15x7 wheel. I remember reading about others using an 8" rim and maybe a 245 tire. Chuck
  15. cbuczesk
    That's a very wide rim. I doubt if it'll fit but I've never tried it. We run 15x7 with 0 offset (Konig Rewinds and Panasports) with a 225/50 Hankook or Hoosier tire. We use coil overs and roll the fenders. No flaring is allowed. Are you planning to do track days or something? Chuck
  16. cbuczesk
    Look at the flat spot on the block between the #5 and #6 plugs for a stamping that says L24, L26 or L28. That will tell you the size of the block. The head ID is cast in the head by the #1 plug. Look for E31, E88, N42, etc. From what I can see the car looks good for $1500. I'd like to see some pictures of the front shock towers and front wheel wells since those are common rust areas. Chuck
  17. cbuczesk
    Too bad you'll miss it. I'll try to get some pics. Chuck
  18. cbuczesk
    Register under ECZN (East Coast Z Nationals). The more people who register the bigger the club tent we get. I'll be there with 5 vendor spaces of almost all Z parts. I'm also bringing my Pantera and 240Z race car to show. I'll be there tonight through Sunday. There's an auto-x on site for those who want to try some racing. Sign up early because it fills up fast! I'll be tied up at my vendor spaces so stop in and say hi! Chuck
  19. cbuczesk
    It looks like you just need to use the KYB gland nuts. Make sure the nut's tight! Chuck
  20. cbuczesk
    C'mon man! Those are macaroni noodles. ;-) I think the choke cable wraps around them on the lever. That's my guess. Chuck
  21. cbuczesk
    A couple weeks ago the aluminum radiator in my race car developed a leak so small that it was just a bit of steam. There was no "leak" and nothing dripped. My friend had good luck in his Z with Bar's Leak and suggested that I try it. I followed the driections and it worked at first. I started it up again to set timing and adjust the carbs. 5 minutes later it was dripping out somewhere in the center of core and going onto the floor. I can't say if it's good or bad. It worked for Jeff but not for me. It's been around a long time so I'd take that as a good sign. Chuck
  22. cbuczesk
    What SteveJ said... Chuck
  23. cbuczesk
    You can use damp towels, cardboard, tape, etc. to protect the paint and glass. Welding is the best way to fix it. For a temporary fix I'd "V-out" the hole, put some tape on the back side and fill with plastic filler. It might be a challenge later to remove the JB Weld too. Chuck
  24. cbuczesk
    That's a nice looking Z! Chuck
  25. cbuczesk
    Looks like a great find! Hope to see you at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals in May. Chuck
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