cbuczesk

It's looking really nice! Chuck

I agree with Bryan. You need to either fix it or keep it away from water. Chuck

Hi Rob! Did I judge your Supra in the Standard of Excellence at Carlisle this year? Chuck

I think these are the same ones that MSA is selling. I have them on both of my race cars and they work ok for me. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cip-19100/overview/ Chuck

I talked to one of the guys at Just Dashes at a show a couple years ago and he told me that they got their start by restoring 240Z dashes. Chuck

I talked to one of the guys at Just Dashes at a show a couple years ago and he told me that they got their start by restoring 240Z dashes. Chuck

I'd be concerned about that filter too. If that glass smacks something metal while you're driving there will be fuel spraying all over the hot exhaust. Chuck

The head was on an engine that I removed from a car about 20 years ago. I had the head resurfaced just to clean it and make sure it's straight. We aren't allowed to shave it to raise compression for IT racing. I have new 20 over pistons installed so compression is about 9:1...stock. Everything is stock except for +20 pistons, Hooker header, exhaust, semi-custom air cleaner, oil cooler, Taylor plug wires and MSD 6. Chuck

I used a full FelPro kit. I've never had a problem with FelPro. I ran water for the first weekend of use and a mix last time. I think there was a little steam cleaning the pistons and chambers. I think it was a very small leak and the temp dropped to normal under normal loads. When I did easy laps and the cool down lap the temp dropped to normal. But after 2-3 hard laps it was 240 degrees. Chuck

Lighter as in cleaner. Everything about the head gasket looks fine. I went over everything for a long time with a flashlight and magnifying lens. I checked the head with a straight edge and it looks good. Whew! I think I'll prep the other head and have this one checked by the machine shop. Chuck

Valves and pistons look fine...everything looks fine. #1 and #2 are a little lighter in color than #3-6 but everything looks good. Chuck

I pulled the head today. Everything looks good. I was hoping to see something that didn't look right. I have another E31 head that I just picked up from the machine shop. I think I'll put it on the block and get the old head pressure checked. What do you guys think? Chuck

The OBX is a Chinese knock-off. The problem with them seem to be with the bolts and washers. There's a lot of info on Hybrid Z about it. Upgrade the bolts and washers and you're good to go. I have one in my 280Z ITS race car and it works fine. Chuck

Wow. I sure hope I don't have a cracked block. I had the radiator cap off while the engine ran so I could see if the coolant was flowing through the radiator. It was. I didn't notice any bubbles though. I'm anxious to get the head off this Friday. Chuck

I might have to print that out and get it laminated. Thank you very much! Chuck

Jan, I'll post pics when I get back out to the garage. Tue-Thu nights are filled with softball playoffs, volleyball, groceries, mowing, etc. I'm off Friday so I'll work on it then and post some pictures. I'm curious to see the head gasket too. Chuck

I didn't have time for a baseline after I built the engine. The head has new seats and guides and the valve springs were tested. I adjusted the valves last week before the race. I checked the head bolts and they were tight. I think what appeared to be a lean condition on the front 3 plugs was actually the blown head gasket. I'll pull it this week and check it for straightness. It's going to be a busy couple weeks. I also have to pull the transmission and fix a broken roll pin on 3rd gear. The joys of owning a race car! Thanks for all the help guys! Chuck

It looks like I found the problem. Here are my compression numbers from a cold engine: 157, 163, 175, 175, 165 183 I never saw any smoke from the exhaust and it didn't smell like coolant. If it burned the coolant it didn't burn much of it because there was very little missing from the radiator. Now I have to figure out what caused the head gasket fail. I'm assuming that's what happened. Chuck

I didn't check the timing after swapping the MSD. I assumed that timing wouldn't change but I plan to check that tonight. I haven't done a pressure test but all the coolant hoses were pressurized when the engine was warm. I started Saturday with aa themostat but removed it for Sunday. I'll pull the plugs tonight and do a cold and warm compression test. I have a new leakdown tester that I can learn to use. Thanks for all the ideas guys! Chuck

The miss is still there but it doesn't happen until 6700RPMs. I'm thinking that the problem is with the distributor and that the digital MSD is more sensitive than the analog that's in it now. I'll post a link to my in-car camera tonight so you can hear the miss. You might be able to read the temp gauge too. I broke in the engine properly. 20 over pistons, new bearings, etc. The engine has to remain mostly stock for ITS. Pulled the plugs before yesterday's race and 1-3 were lean. 4-6 were fine. I will pull them when I get home today. The radiator and cap were new last year. It's a 3-row from Champion. I used it last year and it kept the engine plenty cool. Chuck

I have a 1972 240Z that I race in ITS. I built a new engine and used it for a race weekend last month without any issues except for a miss that would kick in around 6400-6600 RPMs. After the race I rebuilt the carbs and took the car for a drive. The miss was still there but everything else was fine including water temp. I went out for qualifying Saturday morning and had the annoying miss but water temp was good. I swapped out the MSD 6 digital with the MSD 6AL that I used last year in an attempt to fix the miss. The race was Saturday afternoon and the miss was a little better but the water temp got up to almost 260 on the 6th lap so I came in. There was so much pressure in the system that the overflow hose blew out of the catch bottle! Once the car cooled I removed the thermostat. It was warmer Sunday and on the 3rd lap of qualifying the temp hit 240 and I came in. This time I put on a known good water pump and a new radiator cap. I ran the engine with the cap off and I could see coolant flowing in the radiator. The front carb was running lean so we adjusted it. In the race the car hit 240 on lap 3 and I backed it down. I was able to complete the race by racing 2 laps and then coasting down the front straight and short shifting a lap and repeating that process. I'd appreciate any ideas! Chuck

That's great! I'm glad you found the problem. Chuck

I wish I could check out your float problem...and drive your car! I love a challenge. But I'll be racing at Summit Point this weekend. BTW, I'm also running the 1972 carbs and found them to be a PITA to adjust. I'm going to work on a solution for that. :-) I'm more of a FI guy than a carb guy so I'm going to ask a silly question. How much does it matter if the float is 5mm low? Shouldn't an electric fuel pump that puts out a lot more volume than the stock mechanical pump be able to overcome that? I'm running this 96gph/7psi pump. I think it's a re-branded Holley pump. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3136-1 Chuck

I have several sets of spare SUs but they all should be cleaned and rebuilt. I'd be happy to send you a set if you end up needing them. Good luck! Chuck

Minimum weight for a 240Z in ITS is 2430 with driver. I had to add about 80lbs of ballast to get it to meet minimum weight. My car is about 2200lbs with 12 gallons of fuel and no driver. My car is a 1972 240Z. Chuck