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If you drop something in the oil pan you'll wish you hadn't out it on! I know how my luck is. Chuck

Beck Arnley is good. I've used FelPro and it's always worked for me. Chuck

I'll take it out. It has to come out sometime anyway. The car needs a major restoration! I doubt if I'll get to my garage this week. I need to prep my new race car for this weekend. Chuck

Hey, Arne. I did the same thing in my 240Z turbo. I think I used Kenwoods too. Chuck

Yes, that's what he's saying. Chuck

I have a partial and a full clip! I stopped out today after the Carlisle Chrysler show to drop off some Mopar parts. Here are some pictures for now. Chuck

I'm pretty sure that's your flux capacitor. Chuck

The speaker is on one side. I think it's on the left but I don't remember. I spent the last 4 days out in the sun. Chuck

I suggest pulling the booster. I had to do it my race car with a race seat roll cage in the way. I didn't want to do it but it turned out to be not such a bad job and didn't take long. I don't think it's a good idea to install another disc with the old one still in there...somewhere. Chuck

Wow! Look at the size of that timing chain tool. It's as big as your car! Glad you got the car fixed. Chuck

Did you try to pry it up with the big cam bolt in place? Maybe a little tension from the cam bolt to help pull it on? Chuck

You need the MSD 8910 for the tach to work. I have FI on my car and used the white wire instead of the green/purple. You might have to use the white wire. Chuck

I might have one. I know at least part of one is there. I'll try to get out to my garage and have a look. I have car #390. Chuck

The paint and non-original parts can be explained. Cars in showrooms get bumped and sometimes damaged from being moved. Parts are added to appeal to buyers or just to make the car look cool at the time. But that stuff does raise flags. I think it's on the trailer and dirty because the seller is looking for a quick sale. I've seen that done before. Chuck

I can't tell if the pedal rubber is worn or dirty/muddy. I decided to give the seller the benefit of the doubt. There is some heel wear. It looks like that has seen more than 700 miles but not 100700 miles. Maybe the seats have extra wear from people coming into the showroom and sitting in the car? We need somebody to check it out in person! Chuck

What about the interior looks well used? The door chrome is good, seats are good, no wear on any vinyl, crack-free dash, seat belts are still in bags, etc. From the pictures it looks like it could be 700 miles. I'd like to see better pictures. Chuck

Find a friend or a friend of a friend with a MIG welder and weld on a nut. I would be shocked if he charged you more than $20. Chuck

Congrats! Looks like a really solid car. Chuck

I use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Chuck

Are the vice grips slipping or is it too tight to turn? Maybe try a pipe wrench. Keep hitting it with rust penetrant! I wouldn't drill it unless it breaks off flush with the block. Chuck

Spray it with PB Blaster or something good like that. Hit the top of the bolt with a hammer. Sometimes that will break the bond at the threads. Clamp your vice grips really tight and put a bar on the end for some leverage. Smack the bolt with the hammer while you try to turn the bolt. Keep hitting it with PB Blaster. Is the engine out of the car? Can you haul it to a welding shop to have a nut welded on? You'll be surprised how well that welding trick works! Chuck

It sounds good to me. How many miles on the engine? I'd like to see pictures of the body and interior. The hard work's been done. Chuck

I'd wrap it with some good duct tape and clamp the ends for now. Chuck

Put a large nut over it and weld it on. The heat should free it up and the nut will let you get a good grip. That trick works everywhere else. Chuck

It works. I sent you a PM. Chuck