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I bet that's it! Chuck

I don't recognize it. What year is your Z? Let's see a pic from another angle and put a dime or something in the pic for a size reference. Chuck

Awesome! I wish I could have gone but I had Z parts to sell and cars to judge at Carlisle. I heard that Pete Brock might be at Carlisle next year. Chuck

Look on the spark plug side of the block at the top for a flat area. It should be marked "L26" for a 260Z engine...L24 for 240Z engine. If the engine is an L26 and it's running well why mess with it? Chuck

Looking good! I know what fun you'll be having over the next few months... Chuck

Removing those nuts will mess up the paint around the washers...if that matters to you. Chuck

On my 75 280Z there's a ground wire that screws into the rear body panel. You'll have to remove the plastic taillight panel to access that screw. Chuck

Check your fuse, wire connections and bulb connections first. Make sure that they're nice and clean. If that checks out then use your voltmeter to see make sure that you have voltage at those locations. Did your new bulb burn out? Chuck

As long as it compresses enough and doesn't fall off it should work just fine. Looks like a good idea to me. Chuck

Yep. You're right. I was thinking the lines ran on the left side. Chuck

Is yours right hand drive? The right rear should be farthest from the master. Chuck

Ahhhh!!! You're right. They still sell them for the 280Z and that's what I was looking at recently. I suppose a radiator shop might be able to replace the center section and reuse the original end tanks. Thanks for pointing that out. Chuck

I have a '72 240Z turbo, '74 260Z turbo and a '75 280Z ITS race car. Both turbo cars have the Toyota 4x4 front calipers/bigger rotors and rear disc brake upgrades. The 280Z has stock brakes. I haven't had the turbo cars on the track so it's a bit hard to compare but I drive them regularly. I can't say that I notice much of a difference in braking between the three cars. I highly doubt if you'll notice a difference on the street. We road race 70-78 Zs with stock brakes and they work well. If you want better braking a cheaper alternative might be different pads and shoes. I use Carbotech brakes. Chuck

I hate to say it but...if it were my car I'd pull the heater box out, clean it, install new seals, replace the heater core, etc. Chuck

Glad I could help! Chuck

I agree with Zed Head. While you're doing the brakes you might want to pull the proportioning valve off the firewall, disassemble it and clean it. They get a lot of gunk in there and stop working properly. Chuck

I'm looking at the Datsun microfiche right now. It looks like that part goes on the reel that attaches in the floor/rocker area. Here's the picture. Chuck

I have an early 260Z but I'm pretty sure I upgraded to 280Z belts. Anyway, I should have the original 260Z belts around somewhere and I'm sure I kept everything together. I'll search my garages tonight to see if I have that part. Chuck

Who else is going? I'll be there along with some friends selling Z parts. We have 5 vendor spaces and several truckloads of parts. We might bring some cars to show (71 240Z, 72 240Z turbo, 74 260Z, 74 260Z turbo, 75 280Z ITS race car and 05 Lotus Elise supercharged). If we (Classic Zcar Club) get 25 show cars registered we get a free 20x20 club tent and 2 vendor spaces. There's 1500 show cars, swap meet, auto-x, scenic cruise, Friday night block party, on-site dyno, live bands and more. www.carlisleevents.com/events/import Chuck

I had a really nice 88 M3 and several 2002s. I still have a 72 2002tii and 74 2002turbo. Chuck

I replaced mine a couple years ago and I remember that it wasn't easy but it wasn't that hard either. I either used my tiny Craftsman ratchet with screwdriver atachments. Or I went with more modern hose clamps and a nutdriver and small ratchet. Remove your carpet so it doesn't get wet from coolant. You might want to remove the seat and crawl inside. Good luck! Chuck

1. I think connects to an internal flap to direct air. 2. The cable housings are clipped onto the heater box and the actual cables are connected to flaps and the heater valve. I think there are 4 cables to disconnect. 3. Check for voltage at the fuse, switch and blower motor. You might find a wire unplugged somewhere. Chuck

That's a very simple way to put it, but yes. Chuck

Keep up the good work! If you make it to Carlisle (to shop or just look) I'll be in the vendor area with 4 or 5 spaces and a tons of Z parts so stop in and say hi! Chuck

We're in the same class - ITS (Improved Touring Stock). Everything is stock except K&N cone filter, ZX distributor w/little ignition box, header, 3" exhaust, coil overs, adj shocks, adj camber kit, Carbotech pads/shoes, all urethane bushings, bigger front sway bar, full cage, better/lighter gauges, 15gal fuel cell, 15x7 wheels and DOT slicks. I've removed almost everything that is allowed to be removed. The car is loud, stiff and fast. I raced the car in an auto-x last weekend using the road race setup rather than an auto-x setup. I won my class (B Street Prepared) and beat all the Miatas, S2000s, a 2004 M3, most of the Vettes, etc. http://www.nationalroadrally.com/pdf/2012/5_6_12_sun_fin.pdf Chuck