cbuczesk

Square port header for L series engine. 1.5" tubes go into two 2" tubes. I removed it from a 240Z. It's in very good condition. The exhaust is complete minus the muffler and in fair condition. Pickup only. $110 cbuczesk@comcast.net

Sounds like CO's dealt with that before. She expects 6 inches and gets only 5. Rims look nice. There should be a date stamp near the outer edge of the rim. An early date might help the sale. Price is good considering that they were powder coated! Chuck

That was more for everyone else. I'm always at my spot selling parts or packing up for the night when the bikini contest happens. :-( Chuck

I wish more people from here would go to the show and swap meet at Carlisle. We have 2000+ show cars, race car display, hundreds of vendor spaces, cars for sale, auto-x, drifting, burnout contest, scenic cruise, bikini contest, etc. http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/default.aspx Chuck

I've removed many Z windshields and always use a box cutter. Never broken or cracked one. It takes just a few minutes. I'll be building a 280Z turbo soon. Is anyone interested in pictures and/or a video with a write-up on removal of the windshield and hatch glass? Chuck

I have never seen a door without a side beam. I have a 69 Z but haven't checked that one. I just removed a couple doors form a 72 and both had the smaller beam. I believe that they changed in late 72 or 73 to the heavier beam. I have an early 74 door that has the big beam. Chuck

Are you serious??? You think it's ok to swap VINS on a Mopar? You obviously know nothing about the Mopar world. The cars that have their VINs swapped are blacklisted. They're listed in databases all over the world. There are discussions about this all the time on the Mopar boards when someone new comes in and talks about swapping VINs. Go over to moparts.com or forum.e-bodies.org and ask what they think about swapping VINs on a 69 Charger R/T 440/4-speed. Chuck

We're talking about the same splice. The one done at an angle. I also believe that valance was used 74-76. Chuck

Looks like a Vega to me too. Chuck

If you look a couple inches or so up the sides of the hatch opening you can see where it was welded. I noticed the filler too. I'm not sure what that's hiding. Chuck Sent from my Moto G Play using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you look at the pics of the hatch opening you can see where the tail pan was spliced in. Chuck

Does the rotor use an 8mm bolt? I'm pretty sure that my Maxima did. Chuck

The PO of my ITS race car modified the base plate to use a couple of aluminum drinking cups as a set of long air horns. Chuck

Wow! That's a mess. I'd start by replacing the harness(es). Or at least pull them out, go through them and re-tape them. Chuck

They went from none to vertical to horizontal. Chuck

Is the gas door and latch on the list? Chuck Sent from my Moto G Play using Classic Zcar Club mobile

With bolts on the top row it makes installing the intake very easy. The big washers on the lower holes hold the intake in place while the bolts are installed. If there were studs everywhere it might be hard to slide the intake in place. I should know soon since I'm disassembling an L24 with two studs in the top row. Chuck

I figured that the Koito bulbs were OEM. I have a lot of Toshiba single-element bulbs so I thought that they may also be OEM. Chuck

Isn't the inside of the left tie rod a reverse thread? I've used the pickle fork, air pickle fork and hammers for years. They eventually work but sometimes it isn't fast or easy. I spent an almost an hour trying to separate a tie rod end on my AAR. I even brought out the BFH but had no luck. I bought the kit below from Harbor Freight and in less than a minute I had it off! It was quick and effortless. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/5-piece-front-end-service-tool-set-62789.html Chuck

Does anyone know what brand of bulbs we're used in the 240Z? I sorted through min and found several Koito and Toshiba bulbs. Chuck Sent from my Moto G Play using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just set them cold and be done with it. No need to go back and do it hot. Chuck

IIRC the pressure plate has to match with the throwout bearing collar. So you'll want to use all 280Z stuff or all 240Z stuff. Chuck

I adjust them cold before every race on my 240Z. Once I tighten the lock nut I re-check the lash and put a Sharpie mark on the head to note that valve is done. It seems like the clearance gets a little smaller when the 17mm lock nut is torqued down. Chuck

My red interior was fading to white so I sprayed it with SEM Napa red. Looks like the original red. I sprayed the vinyl, plastic and door panels. That was 5-10 years ago and it still looks great. Chuck

My Hooker Super Comp header on my race car leaked. I found Permatex high temp red RTV to be very good at sealing it. No leaks and I've had to remove the header many times over the years. I always use a new gasket and red RTV. Interesting thread with deformed nuts, larger studs and now hookers. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/ Chuck