cbuczesk
-
Posts
1,024 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Knowledge Base
Zcar Wiki
Forums
Gallery
Events
Downloads
Store
Blogs
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by cbuczesk
-
I've installed a few Precision windshield and hatch gaskets. Never used sealant. None have leaked. Maybe I'm lucky. Chuck
-
I was told a welded 410 R180. Chuck
-
The PO cut out the door bar to make ingress/egress easier. Ugh. I would probably go with NASCAR bars on the left side and hollow out the door. The ITS parts don't have a lot of value as used parts but to buy them and build an ITS car costs a small fortune and takes a lot of time. I'm looking forward to cleaning it up and going over everything this weekend. I'll get some pics of the dash too. Chuck
-
Does anybody have an opinion on value? Or an opinion on what I should do with the car? I have an ITS Z but it might be nice to have a spare in case someone wrecks me again. It would also make a nice auto-x car. I could remove the cage and make it a street car again. I'm leaning toward making it a rally-x car. Has anyone here built a rally-x car? I'll get it cleaned up this weekend and take better pics. Chuck
-
I picked up this car recently and a friend is interested in buying it. My gf thinks that I should sell it since I have a couple, we'll a few, OK several projects in the garage. There's no engine or trans. It has all the usual SCCA ITS stuff: coil overs, tokicos, big sway bars, strut bar, adj TC rods, Sunpro gauges, adj brake bias, fuel cell, Holley electric pump, full cage, etc. I also have SCCA logbooks and a title. There's very little rust. There are no cracks in the dash. I'm not sure what I want to do with it but thought that I'd get some opinions on value. Chuck
-
East Coast Z Nationals (ECZN) - Carlisle, PA
cbuczesk commented on 70 Fairlady Z's event in Zcar Events and Shows
-
I wouldn't run that engine anymore. That will do more harm than good. Can you pull the engine and deliver it? I might be able to find time to build it. It's hard to estimate a cost until it is disassembled. My race engine was strong enough to finish 3rd but it needed a rebore, new pistons and the crank turned so you never know. A rebuild for your engine could easily cost $3000. Chuck
-
Yes. More flexible and thinner too. I have no issues with it kinking on either carb. Chuck
-
I'm using this on my race car's carbs and they're holding up very well after 2 years of racing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hlx-316-5167 Chuck
-
I try to remember that the right is "right" and the left is "wrong". It's like bike pedals and crank bearings. The left side lug nuts on my Road Runner and AAR cuda are LH thread. The other day I struggled for a few seconds to remove a lug nut. Chuck
-
The Import show isn't next weekend. It's May 19-21. I'll be the guy selling lots of Datsun parts. Futofab might be there too. http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/default.aspx Chuck
-
Yes. I know the seller. He owns a used BMW dealership/shop in Newville, PA. http://www.crbimmers.com/ Chuck
-
I got my first one 31 years ago in Mechanicsburg, PA. It was a black 4-speed 1975 280Z. We took it for a test drive and the salesman asked for the key back. I told him that I used our 1980 200SX key. I still have that Z today. Chuck
-
What dhp said. The air goes through the grill, passes through these "L" ducts and then through the upper frame of the inner fender and into the car at the kick panel under the dash. See TomoHawk's pic. The plastic fender liners make no difference. Chuck
-
Nevermind. You're looking for just a tire. Chuck
-
Here's a single 15x7 Rota for $35. https://baltimore.craigslist.org/wto/6105291236.html Chuck
-
Longer brake hoses - Anyone have them or made them?
cbuczesk replied to Hardway's topic in Wheels & Brakes
This works great. We bleed after every session on the track. Chuck -
Is anyone going the race that weekend? I'll be there racing my 1972 240Z in the MARRS ITS class. As of now our group has a few Datsuns/Nissans: 240Z, 280Z, 300ZX, 240ZX, 200SX and a Sentra SE-R. I'm sure more will sign up this week. Chuck
-
Don't forget the dog legs just behind the door openings. They should match the door panels. From what I can tell they'll be close enough. :-) Chuck
-
Yes. Chuck
-
I think the difference between 74-76 and 77-78 is the lock location and the texture of the vinyl. The 77-78 vinyl is smoother. If there are no holes then the skins should fit 70-78. I just clicked the link at the top. They look different from the originals from all years. It's more of a custom look than OE replacement. Chuck
-
Here are some of the parts in the basement. Nice doors, NOS dash, steering wheels, fresh P90A, rebuilt SUs for an L4, etc.
-
You should see my basement, garage and big garage. Some other cool parts somewhere in those pics are a 2.0L efi system, boxes of SUs, 2400 valve covers, NOS grill, NOS hatch, boxes of interior vinyl, etc. The plan is to get everything to the big garage at the new house and sort it all. Chuck
-
I finally got out to my other garage and took pictures. It's hard to see but there's a Fairlady Z dash, NOS frame rails, NOS quarters, and other NOS metal, early hatches, early steering wheels, E31 heads, a couple turbo engines, 5 speeds, diffs, etc. The black Z was the first car I ever owned and white Z is a 69 Z.
-
The original 240Z panels use a large black plug. That's its only function. Also holding the panel on are all the screws use to attach the various relays, levers, etc that pass through the panel. The go on over the carpet. Chuck
until