cbuczesk

I have a similar set of Hooker headers and I use a copper gasket at the ends. I think I bought the gaskets from Summit Racing. Chuck

Here's a nice shot from 2016 of me (Chuck Buczeskie) #0 and Mark Gibson #13 racing at Summit Point.

We had our MARRS #1 race at Summit Point this weekend and went down Friday to bed in tires and brakes and to give the cars a general shakedown. I took my 72 240Z, John took his 72 240Z and Jeff took his 73 240Z. Friday went well until the third lap when I couldn't shift into fourth...or any gear and had to be towed back. The problem appeared to be with the clutch so I removed the exhaust, starter, clutch slave, driveshaft transmission and clutch. The flywheel was loose and the head of a flywheel bolt broke off was jamming the clutch. The flywheel wobble at 7400 RPM caused the metal from the flywheel to be transferred to back of the crank. I spent a couple hours or so slowly chipping off the metal. So much fun! I got everything back together and went out for the last session of the day. It was great for a few laps and then I felt a vibration and came in. We hooked up the trailer and loaded up the car to go home. But I'm not one to give up. I put the car on jack stands and removed everything again. The crank wasn't too bad this time. I grabbed a fresh flywheel and had Jeff and Steve (our crewman) work on it while I ate supper. We put the trans back in, bolted up the starter and driveshaft, hooked up the exhaust and bled the brakes. I didn't start it because I wanted the Loctite to set. Loaded up in the morning and headed to the track to qualify. Jeff Q'ed on the pole, I was 4th and John was 8th. The car seemed ok. We raced in the afternoon. The BMW starting 2nd damaged his car in another race so he was out. The Miata starting 3rd didn't show up so I got to start on outside pole next to Jeff. I got a good start but he was much faster and left the rest of us in his dust. I raced Mark Johnston in the 240SX all race long. We swapped positions a few times but I was ahead most of the time. I seemed to be stronger near the end and opened a small gap but on the last lap I hot traffic and he caught up. I had him beat coming out of the last turn. With about 100 yard to go I shifted into 4th and the throttle linkage popped off at the gas pedal. Mark flew by and beat me by .2 seconds. John had battery issued and DNF'ed Sunday was longer and less exciting. I started 3rd and finished 3rd. I followed Mark and Jeff for a lap but they were both much faster. John started 4th and after 2 laps I dropped him. His battery died a couple turns form the finish. Jeff won easily and I was 3rd. Here are some pics. Yellow is mine, blue is John's and white is Jeff's. The pic of the 4 of us is Steve, John, Jeff and me. Chuck

The first two cam lobes are pointed up? Can you see/feel #1 piston at TDC? Plug wires are in correct order? What's the history on the car? Any recent changes? How does the distributor look inside? Cap and rotor? EFI or carbs? How are your plug wires? I'm thinking ignition issues right now. Chuck

I think the 280Zs had that part as part of the plastic inner fender liner. IIRC that part bolts in and then the long liner bolts in and also to the front part. Chuck

I've never really checked the rack with the car on the ground but it sure looks like way too much movement to me. Maybe someone installed 240Z bushings on your 280Z rack? Chuck

I thought I was guessing a little high at $28k. Wow! I have a 1975 280Z that I've owned since 1986 and has been in storage since 1992 or so. I wonder what that's worth today? Chuck

Oops. Replied to the wrong thread. Chuck

According to zhome.com your car would be a 1971 240Z. It should have the C-pillar vents. 1971 HLS30 Series-I, Series-II and Series-III Notable VIN Month Highlights HLS30 020438 01 Last Series-I Body Style Reported (rear hatch vents with NO side vents in quarter panels). HLS30 021001 First of Series II Body Style Click Here For List Of Changes. 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 HLS30 043496 09 First Series-III 1972 Model Reported HLS30 046000 10 Series-III 1972 Model Year Start According To Nissan New Features For The 72 Model Year Included: Flip Forward Seats, New Hub Caps, Center Console Redesigned, Gas Tank Door Latch Eliminated, 5 Inch Wide Wheels Made Standard, New 4sp. Trans. Design, Rear End Moved Rearward 35mm (about 1.5 inches), Auto Seat Belt Retractors, Seat Belt Warning Buzzer & Seat Belt Warning Light HLS30 051583 Last Series-II, 1971 Model Year Car Built (HLS30 51583 latest reported so far). 11 12 Note:4 Most 1972 Model Year 240-Z's built between 09/71 and 01/72 did not receive the Auto Seat Belt Retractors, Seat Belt Warning Buzzer & Seat Belt Warning Light, indeed many did not even have the "pockets" in the floorboards necessary to mount the Auto Seat Belt Retractors. This was an MVSS requirement for cars built on or after 01/72. In order to install the seat sensor, for the required Seat Belt Warning Buzzer, Nissan had to redesign the seat cushion. The newer seat cushions were supported by spring steel rather than the previous full foam rubber block supported by straps. Most seat belt warning buzzers were disconnected by the car's owner within days of purchase. Note:5 Most 1972 Model Year 240-Z built before 12/71 had the rear window defroster lines running from the top of the rear window to the bottom of the rear window (ie. Vertical). Most 1972 Model Year 240-Z's built after 01/72 had the rear window defroster lines running from one side of the rear window to the other side(ie. Horizontal). Chuck

And Philly... https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/wan/6001279711.html Chuck

Can you post the rule that states an alternate may be used? My quote above applies only to the pulleys. I found nothing in the GRC talking specifically about the alt/e-reg. You can use a replacement 240Z alternator but it has to be similar in size and weight. You can't swap in some new lightweight alternator. Same thing goes for a battery. If you're running at the front you better keep everything legal. But if you're not then I doubt if anyone will care. Chuck

77-78 had the raised rear floors. Chuck

I checked the GCR. Looks like you have to stay with the stock alternator and voltage regulator. The only mention of alternator for IT is - "n. Alternate water pump, alternator, power steering, and crankshaft pulleys of any diameter or material may be used. Type of accessory drive (e.g., V-belt, toothed belt, etc.) shall remain as stock." Chuck

Looks nice! Better check the IT rules on the alternator and voltage regulator before you change them. If they don't specifically say that you can then you can't. Mine works fine as-is and there's always been something more important to mess with so I haven't looked into the alt/e-reg. BTW, I also have a 72 with an 83 turbo engine/trans. :-) Chuck

You don't need the wire on the brake splitter. I'm not sure about the alternator wiring. But depending what alternator you may or may not need a voltage regulator. I race ITS and use the stock alternator, voltage regulator and wiring. Where are you located? Any pics of the car? Chuck

The orange car has the correct vinyl top. The yellow car is custom. The vinyl top goes on the hatch and ends at the bottom of the glass. That sticker is an inspection sticker. The inspection is good until the date on the sticker. After July 31 1970 that inspection sticker is no longer valid. It has nothing to do with taxes. Chuck

I think it's an old PA inspection sticker. Chuck

I'll guess $28k. It's a very clean car! It says that it's original paint. On the interior shouldn't the clutch and gas pedal stops be painted black? And shouldn't the visible area of the seat brackets be blacked out? I see a lot of orange. Maybe just the 240Zs were blacked out? Chuck

Somebody added a/c to that car at sometime. That's not how the factory routed the a/c lines. I don't find that inner fender rust to be that big of a deal. But I've been working on Zs for 30 years so that probably helps. Look at the rest of that inner fender. It looks really solid to me. That makes me think that the car might be pretty good. Check the battery tray area, frame rails, floors, rear wheel arches, dog legs and rockers. The thing that puts me off is the black engine bay. Fixing that means remover all the crap from the engine bay and there's a lot of it on a 280Z. Chuck

I've owned and seen a lot of Zs and all of them have had the cone on the engine side. Chuck

If I were you I'd try to find a way to keep this one. You need to make new "triangle" braces to replace the rusted ones. I've done it several times. Cut out all of that rust, make an inner fender patch and then weld on the "triangles" over them like the factory did. From what little I see of the car I think it's going to be pretty solid. Chuck

I'm sure we can help with all of these issues. But first, what's our cut of the profit when we flip this baby? Chuck

Here's a pic of the left frame rail. Compare it to the clean, sharp edges of the right rail where it meets the floor. The left rail has blobs that look like some tack welds. Oh, and you can see a sheet of new black metal under the lift's arm. Chuck

I don't think anything goes there. Maybe they were used to attach a filler panel if there was no radio? They're not centered so that's interesting. Chuck

Welcome! Series 1 isn't an official Nissan term bit it's what most people call the early 240Z with the hatch vents, etc. An 1971 would be series 1 and a late 71 would be series 2. My friend bought a 240Z new back in 1971 and still has it. Where are you located? Do you have a budget in mind? Chuck