cbuczesk

That's tough to answer. Hmmm...I'd say converting it to manual lowers the value since it's no longer original. If you're changing it to a manual you might as well make it a 5-speed. Auto is worth less than a manual. If you're trying to flip the car then just fist the rust on the wheel arch and put on some new seat upholstery. The car look pretty good for the most part. Chuck

The more you look at it the more flaws you see. No grill, no shock tower vinyl, black engine room with original paint showing through, engine block needs cleaned and painted, wheels/tires too skinny, painted over the dome light switches, lots of exposed wires under the dash, left frame rail may have had some work done, etc. At least the dash cap isn't cracked! Not sure why he took a close up of the dash cap. Must have a broken front sway bar since it's been duct taped back together. Or maybe the duct tape is a cushion for the air filter. It's not a bad car at all but it does need some simple work and parts to make it a notch nicer. That stuff should have been done before it was put up for sale. Instead of buying a steering wheel quick release he could have bought some hood and door rubber bumpers and some rear shock tower vinyl. I hope it sells for a lot. I have a 1972 240Z turbo just like it. Chuck

The brace on the race car is an aluminum U channel that I made. Maybe 8"+ long and 2" wide. It's riveted to the bottom of the radiator support and the other end rests inside the lip of the air dam. This is from memory so I could be a little off. It's held up to 125+MPH and some contact with cars and a tire wall. The street car attached higher to the radiator support. That's about all I remember. I'll try to get pics tonight. Chuck

I made a brace for my street Z and race Z to make it flat. Yeah, I have OCD issues. lol. My friend's race Z points down. Chuck

The 240Zs were painted body color. The 280Zs were left in that cream colored primer. Not sure about the 260Zs. Chuck

I'm glad that you found the problem. I've made plenty of dumb mistakes working on cars. Are the offsets and widths on the front and rear wheels the same? A 205 on the front shouldn't rub. Chuck

Is the left T/C rod properly tightened? Is it bolted on to the suspension arm in the correct place? It's not the struts. Chuck

You can also get a Subaru R180 LSD and stub axle kit from FutoFab. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=122 Chuck

How many Zs do you need to be a hoarder? I'm thinking 9 or more and you have a problem... Chuck

I'll get some pics of my collection tomorrow of the basement, the garage, the big garage and the storage unit. My friend recently gave me a bunch of parts that he's been collecting since he bought his Z new in 1971. I have a lot of work ahead of me to get all of this sorted and organized. Chuck

Thanks! All of us have at least one set of Rewinds on our race cars. I'll probably buy another set when they go on sale. Mark is in need this month so he can have a set of 15" rains. He's also on a tighter budget. We're happy with the Konigs. Been racing them for years without a problem. We were running 225/45ZR-15 Hankook Ventus Z214 Race/Track, C51 Medium but have switched to the Hoosier R7. We run coil overs and roll the fender lips so there's no rubbing. Chuck

Those would work. We have no use for the tires since we'd be mounting rain tires. How much do you want for them? Chuck

I'm looking for a set or two of 15x6, 15x6.5 or 15x7 wheels for our 240Z race cars. They don't need to be pretty or perfect but they do need to be straight. Let me know what you have. Email is the best way to contact me. cbuczesk@comcast.net Chuck

I know. But he has a 1976. Chuck

Post a pic. It could be a bar for a 240Z or early 260Z. BTW, I have an NOS 240Z front bumper bar. Oh, and an NOS rear bumper bar. Chuck

I just looked at the pics in the link in the first post. The right dog leg was probably replaced. That would explain what I saw on the inner rocker in the other pics. That should have been done better. It's probably a nice driver and good for local shows but JLP is right about the untrained person buying this car. Chuck

The battery tray/firewall area has been patched, both floors replaced with flat metal, frame rails under floor replaced, rust hole in left rear inner rocker area, right rear inner rocker area may have had a hole filled over, diff leaks, trans leaks and it looks like welding was done in the wheel well area of the RF inner fender just above the frame rail. Looking at one of the last pictures showing the underside of the battery you can see a bumpy line between the top of the RF frame rail and the engine wiring harness. It appears that some welding has been done there. That concerns me. Do you have any pictures of the RF inner fender from the suspension side where the engine crossmember bolts on to the frame? I'm looking at the two pics of the front inner fenders for the suspension side. Does it look like there's a weld seam just below the upper frame rails on both sides? Most everything else looks good to very good! The gas tank is nice and straight. If I were to buy it I'd patch the hole(s) in the inner rockers, fix the diff/trans leaks, replace the ball joints/tie rods/u-joints, go over the brakes/engine and enjoy it for may years as-is. Chuck

choke cable choke lever transmission crossmember bolts carb throttle rod mount - bolts onto firewall something to hold a hose ignition resistor by the coil brake booster check valve bracket - mounts to firewall pads that go under cowl at either end Chuck

Here's how mine are laid out. Other configs are here: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/auto-body-layout-anchor-pots-t.aspx Chuck

Floor pot: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-floor-anchor-pot-1600-p-11538.aspx Plate required for a new floor: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/champ-instant-floor-plate-new-floors-p-10320.aspx Check their web site for all of the different attachments. I think Champ's web site shows where to locate the pots. I went with 10 pots. You can use more or less but 10 seemed like it would do almost anything I'd need. Chuck

I like the wagon too. It's stock except for a 5-speed. There's a bunch of new parts that came with it. I've been so busy with the new house and garage that I haven't gone through the car yet. It's very solid for an east coast car. The 620KC is a bit of an underdog too. I did a mechanical restoration on it and also did the interior. Chuck

I also had Champion floor pots installed in the concrete. They mount flush with the floor and have a chain anchor inside that's used to pull frames. Since I race a 240Z and restore cars as a hobby it seemed like a great idea for $250. Have them installed when they pour the concrete. Having holes drilled later costs much more! Chuck

The garage area is 40x82. The barn area is 40x20 and there's an 8' overhang at each end to cover the stall entrance and hay/tractor on the other side. I'm getting a mini split heat pump system to heat/cool the two bays. The storage area won't be heated/cooled. Advice: Draw and re-draw your plans. Most of my cars are about 14' long so I need to be able to work on them without ever having to move anything. My Road Runner is 18' and I'll be able to paint it on the rotisserie so I know that everything fits. LED lights are great! Try to save up so you can pay other people to do all of the work. I helped with wiring, drywall, building stalls, etc. That might not sound like much work but on a large building it is. Insulate well! I have R19 in the walls. I chose drywall over metal walls since it's easier mount cabinets on flat drywall as opposed to wavy metal. Drywall is also absorbs hammering sounds better than metal. Shop around and find a good, honest builder. Estimates for my building ranged from $60k-135k. $60k was great but he didn't include concrete and other things that I asked for so I lost trust in him. I ended up using Franklin Builders and I'm very happy with them. My brother is having them build a 60x80 garage in about a month. Chuck

There are only to "work" rooms so moving the big box isn't a problem. The smaller room will be the clean room for simple tasks and painting. I'll prep the race car, change oil, change brakes, etc. SImple stuff. The big room (20x30) is for all the major work - cutting, welding, grinding, sanding, etc. The silver Z is a 1972 240Z turbo, 5-speed. It used to be my daily driver. I'd take it to bike rides and races. Excellent car! The attached pic is my old 1975 280Z race car, 240Z turbo and 260Z turbo. Chuck

We're almost done building our new garage and barn. On Saturday we moved 12 cars and 4 trailers. The #00 white w/red race car is my friends. I still have to buy or build shelving and move all of my parts. At some point I'll have to sell some cars so I move in 4 more cars. Chuck