cbuczesk
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Everything posted by cbuczesk
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I have a set of freshly rebuilt carbs. My friend built them as spares for his race car and then realized that in 30 years of racing he's never had them fail so they're up for sale. $275 I should have a hood hinge, door handles and bumpers. How nice do the door handles and bumpers need to be? FutoFab sells really nice new bumpers. If you want to see the stuff I'm located in Greencastle, PA. Chuck
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Welcome! I think I've raced with you at VIR over the last few years when MARRS is there. Here's my race car. Chuck
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I've found shifting into reverse to often be a little difficult on every Datsun I've owned. I simply put it into 3rd and then it goes smoothly into reverse. If the 3rd to reverse trick doesn't work then I'd be concerned. Chuck
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The factory did not put speakers back there. The area on the left is solid behind the plastic panel. The area in the lower right can be creatively used to mount a speaker. I've done it. You could put 5 1/4" speakers in the rear side and buy the custom kick panels with speaker holes for up front. You could mount boxes behind the seats or under the dash. They aren't the best locations acoustically but they can go there and not really be noticed. Chuck
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There was one original speaker and it was located in the left rear by the power antenna. Chuck
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I have the same rotisserie and bought the Mopar mounts since it's a similar setup to the Zs. You have those rear arms extended pretty far. I mounted mine to the front and rear bumper mounts. My first step was to make sure that those bumper mount areas were nice and strong. I've done an early 71, 72 and 75 on the rotisserie and had no issues. It's been very stable and I've rotated them many times. You can see lots of pictures on my Facebook page (Chuck Buczeskie). Look for Ken's restomod, 72 240Z race car and 75 280Z race car. Chuck
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The "corner panel" and roof are in front of the car. That's hard car to buy with almost no description, 4 blurry exterior pictures and a bit of an attitude to go along with it. If it needs a quarter and a roof then the price seems a little high to me. If were a 69 Z I'd be a lot more interested but I bet getting info and better pictures from him would be like pulling teeth. Chuck
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Are they fiberglass or FRP? After doing some research it looks like they may have switched to metal during the 1972 model run. My 72 has metal buckets. My 72 race car has a left metal and had a right FRP bucket until a BMW hit it. The parts microfiche should show the date of the change. Anybody have the fiche handy? Chuck
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1970 should have FRP buckets on both sides. Metal buckets I think came in late 1971. Sounds like you have some past damage. Fiberglass buckets are aftermarket. Chuck
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They don't look like any springs from a Z to me. Unless one of them is the gas pedal spring located under the dash? Chuck
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I have Illuminas and a coil over setup on my race car. It's very stiff, as it should be. I have some brand of performance/lowering springs on my street Zs. If I were you I'd go with your first choice. It's going to take a chunk of time, money and effort to convert to coil overs. I'd do it for a race car but not a street car. Chuck
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I got some spots on a set of cloth seats and since then I kept a dehumidifier running in the garage. No problems since. Chuck
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Your car looks great! I'll be at Carlisle with several vendor spaces selling Z parts. Chuck
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It takes some effort to unscrew it. I think I used a couple of breaker bars. Chuck
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http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423706 Chuck
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Last Monday I put the car on jack stands and removed the wheels, hood, bumper, fenders, HL buckets, some RF suspension and engine. Then I repaired the right frame and T/C rod pocket rail that were bent when an E30 BMW hit me and went over my nose. The frame was cracked in a couple places so I repaired that too. I applied some paint and called it a day. Tuesday was spent replacing damaged suspension and steering parts. Both motor mounts were sheered off and teeth were broken inside the steering rack so that was replaced. A friend came over and helped guide me with the engine installation. We quit around 7pm. My point is that if I can do all of that in a couple days I'm sure you can pull the engine in a couple days. Chuck
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At this point you could have the engine out in 15-20 minutes. There's only 8-10 bolts to undo. With that out of the way painting will be much easier, better and faster. Chuck
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You are doing everything correctly. Just install the tail light surrounds and center piece. Looks good! Chuck
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I have boxes of jute from several 240Zs. Some day when I get time I'll look through it. If anyone has an urgent need I can try to make time to see what I have. I've collecting for 30 years. Chuck
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The stock connector works pretty well. I clean the connections and then crush the connector a little bit to make the opening smaller. Chuck
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Stock connector is a female bullet for that. Chuck
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What screws and what year 280Z? I was describing the 240Z which IIRC is the same hinge setup as the early 280Z. The early cars use bolts that go through the kick panel and thread into the door hinge. It sounds like the later 280Z uses bolts that pass through the hinge and screw into nuts inside the kick panel. My adjustments above will work but accessing those bolts will be a pain due to the fender being in the way. Chuck
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Remove the striker from the door jam and hold the door closed. Are the body lines in alignment? If not, then adjust the door by accessing the bolts inside the kick panel area. If the front of the door isn't flush with the fenders you can add shims to move the door out. Once the door is aligned you can install the striker and get the door to close properly. The window frame is a separate problem. Lower the window and remove the door panel (IIRC). Loosen the window frame bolts at the front, inside and back of the door. Fiddle with it to get all the gaps and alignment the way you want. Chuck
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It's a real Fairlady. The early US cars have the twist lock. Chuck
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My 1971 Fairlady Z has a locking gas door. Chuck
