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I wouldn't let the replaced radiator support and inner fender be a show stopper but I'd want to see some pictures of where they were attached and get some measurements to make sure that the car is still "square". For $11k I'd probably keep looking. If you're going to buy a Z and then have a shop do work then you're best off to get a car already close to being what you want. It will most likely be much cheaper that way. The cost of labor will eat up your budget in a hurry. Chuck

That Z may have been hit hard. If the car was originally orange (that appears true) then why is the right inner fender yellow? I don't see yellow anywhere else on the car. It appears that it was hit hard enough by the tractor that the inner fender had to be replaced. Did he mention that? Based on the color of the radiator support matching the right inner fender and the welds where it meets the radiator support I think the entire right front clip was replaced. Notice that he shows no pictures of where the left inner fender attaches to the radiator support. Chuck

I've had success using airplane stripper and then lacquer thinner. Chuck

They're looking for a place in Myrtle Beach. His gf lived there and then moved up here. Now that Jeff's retired they're going to move down there. Chuck

I suppose that there's a chance that yours is the oldest AT made. But there's a better chance that yours is the oldest AT still alive. Based on what I've seen happen in the Mopar world I'd say it's more valuable kept as an AT. Post some pictures when you get a chance. Chuck

I hear ya. I wanted to take the Pantera and enter it in the limbo contest but I wasn't about to drive it in the rain. As it turned out I was too busy selling Z parts to get away from my spot. I put a set of Miata seats in my 260Z turbo about 15 years ago and love them. They fit really well, hold you in place and are comfortable. He has one set of seats left. They're $60 for the pair. I bought a set from Jeff for my 76 280Z turbo. I couldn't pass up a set for that price. Another good deal Jeff has is a set of 4-screw carbs that he recently rebuilt as spares for his race car. He's decided to retire from racing and move to SC. He also realized that after 30+ years of racing he's never had a problem with his SU carbs so he didn't need to carry a spare set anyway. The carbs are $225 for the pair if anyone is interested. Saturday's weather was crappy. But after selling a ton of Z parts I'll remember it as 70 degrees and sunny! Chuck

Kira - I just got back from the show and need a little time to go through your list. The show was great! Friday's weather was very nice and the crowds were bigger than usual. Saturday was mostly rainy but we were busier than any previous Saturdays! And we sold more parts than ever. Lou Santiago stopped by our spot and hung out for a couple hours. He'll be shooting season 5 of Car Fix in a couple weeks. I went over to the FutoFab http://www.futofab.com/ display and spent some time with Dave Patton. He's selling some really cool parts for the Zs and more are on the way! It was a great weekend! Chuck

Ready to sell! Chuck

It's May 19-21 2017. They plan their events 2 years in advance. See you then! lol. For those of you going to the show please stop by spaces F78-82 and say hi. I'd like to put a face to a screen name. :-) Chuck

It might be worth the trip sometime. Although the show isn't Z or Datsun specific there are still a lot of Datsuns that show up. I expect around 2500 total show cars. There's a Z guy from Canada who comes every year and buys parts from me. I think his name is Clive. Maybe he's a member here? This show also hosts the East Coast Z Nationals. https://www.facebook.com/www.ECZNats.org/ Chuck

Tonight we unloaded 3 truck loads of parts. Most are for Datsun and some are for Miatas. We'll bring 2 more truck loads tomorrow and a trailer load. Chuck

Here's a link to the events (auto-x, burn out competition, swap meet, bikini contest, etc.): http://www.carlisleevents.com/carlisle-events/carlisle-import-and-performance-nationals/default.aspx Chuck

I loaded up the trucks last night and am ready for Carlisle. They're expecting over 2000 show cars. Maybe even 2500 or more! For those of you who watch Car Fix on Velocity Lou Santiago will be there. He's a funny guy and I got to walk around with him at the Spring Carlisle swap meet last month. I'm in the middle of moving to a new house so it doesn't look like I'll have time to get the trailer and haul the race car up there this year. And since I'm moving I'll be trying hard to sell everything so I don't have to bring it back! I have a 30 year collection of Z parts and Jeff has been collecting Z parts for 45 years. We'll set up Thursday evening and be there bright and early Friday morning for the show. We have mostly Z parts, some 510 parts and other Datsun parts. Jeff is also bringing some Miata parts including a good 1.8L engine. He restores/rebuilds Miata's now that he's retired and his son races an SSM Miata. I hope to see some of you out there! Chuck

I have the Auto Twirler Pro and it's great. I bought it with the Mopar mounts and they're similar to the Z mounts. I drilled an additional hole in the front mounts and made an adapter bracket for the rear mounts. I've built a 71 240Z, 72 240Z and 75 280Z on it so far. The first pic is my 240Z and the others are my 280Z. Both were painted Mopar's Curious Yellow. I got it at one of the Carlisle shows a few years ago. http://autotwirler.com/ Chuck

Is it on Carl's list? http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm Chuck

Here's a cut and paste of the instructions... Ok here is the unique technique for bleeding the caliper. You hold the loaded caliper in you hand or on a platform that will hold it for you since it is heavy. Put the rotor in the caliper (remember to put the pads in first). Once the rotor is in the caliper. Position the whole caliper so the bleeding nipple in almost parallel to the input of the brake line. The nipple should be a little bit higher that the input of the brake line. The reason for this is to make the bubbles in the caliper rise to the output of the bleeding nipple. Once this position is in place now you can start bleeding the caliper. Once the caliper is bled and the pedal is firm, install the rotor and mount the caliper to the new bracket which should have already been installed.

I think one port is machined for the hose and the bleeder port isn't. The kit came without directions. We had to ask for them. Their directions say to remove the caliper and rotor and orient the caliper with the bleeder at the high point, insert the rotor in the caliper and hold everything while you bleed the brakes. No, thanks. That's why I had to find a better way to mount it. Chuck

The calipers that they sent me were stamped Ford. Here's what I did... Chuck

I'm looking at the Datsun microfiche... The gas door changed in 8/71. 1970-71 had the latch. 1972 on up didn't. The lock was optional on the 70/71 but not on US models AFAIK. Chuck

The plastic light housing is molded in black and doesn't get painted. The metal panels should be a slightly darker gray than appears in the picture. In the Mopar world we use dark argent paint for that color. LEDs should be good back there. The metal slip things could be for heat or maybe to create a more even light instead of a spotlight effect. Chuck

I installed the SilverMine kit for a friend and the rear calipers mount upside down. That makes it tricky to bleed them. I ended up swapping the left and right e-brake cable mounts on the calipers and mounted them with the bleeders up. I wouldn't bother with the disc brake setup unless I was rebuilding the rear suspension and bearings and was taking everything apart anyway. Or if I felt like spending a lot of time and money on a project that's mostly for show. Chuck

Off the top of my head I'd say it was 70-early 71 or maybe 70-71. Chuck

Why do you want a switch and why do you want a removable key? I bought wire, wire ends and shrink tubing from Summit Racing when I did my 240Z race car. I have a switch with a non-removable key mounted in the glove box area. Mine is set to cut off all the power to everything and cuts off power to the MSD so the car shuts off when the switch is turned off. I don't remember the gage of the wire but it's the same as the battery cables. My Pantera came with a removable key switch and it's mounted in the "trunk" near the battery. The only negative I see with a removable key is that you could lose it...and I would/will. Chuck

It's not rusty in the usual places. Those places are no longer there! You could make some money parting it out but for the time it would take to get the car, strip it, list the parts, ship parts, show parts, meet people, etc. you'd end up making $2/hr. Chuck

You might want to touch up the paint by the nuts for the front strut mounts. Maybe add a hood emblem. Can you grind down some of the welds where the new floor was patched in? A little grinding, some filler and undercoating would go a long way.Those welds really pop out to me. Maybe add a shim to the left door upper hinge. It appears to set in from the fender in the first pic. Some of the pics have too much sunlight and others had odd reflections that make it hard to see the body lines. If I'm buying a car from far away I want to see as much as I can in the pictures. It might help to paint the grill and tail light panels the original gun metal gray. Or it might not. It's hard to say what the buyers will like. Try to get the wrinkles out of the carpet for the picture. The engine would look cleaner if you removed the black engine hook by the fuel pump. I know that I'm nit picking on most of this stuff but it's a really nice car that can bring some really nice money! Change "be rebuilt" to "been rebuilt" in your ad here - The odometer reads 58,000 miles, that could be 158,000 but I have no way of knowing for sure, the original engine may have be rebuilt at some time in the past 46 years as the compression is excellent and runs very well. Chuck