cbuczesk
-
Posts
1,024 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Knowledge Base
Zcar Wiki
Forums
Gallery
Events
Downloads
Store
Blogs
Collections
Classifieds
Everything posted by cbuczesk
-
Have him replace the roll pins. They're super cheap. Chuck -
Here are some pics of mine. There's also a clean/paint bay. I have better pics but can't find them. Right now I'm working on my AAR. Next up is prepping the race car and then restoring my 75 280Z turbo. Chuck Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
-
The transmissions are pretty tough. It might not need anything. Maybe a syncro or two since you're in there and of course the front gasket. If you take it apart you should replace the roll pins and maybe add a second pin while you're in there. If the transmission is used hard the roll pins will shear. That's why we double pin them on the race cars. It costs more to rebuild the 5-speed because the 5th gear syncro is made of gold! Chuck
-
We're going to be rebuilding a few 1972-ish 4-speeds for our race cars next month. Our friend Steve is the brains and the rest of us do the grunt work. You're welcome to bring your 5-speed and join us. We use the FSM for reference during the rebuild. Chuck
-
I'm helping a friend find strut housings for his race car. He's looking for the larger 280Z housings to fit his new Koni struts. He needs housings for all four corners. He's located in Myrtle Beach, SC. Please email him at jlucas194800@gmail.com Thanks, Chuck
-
You can see the difference in how the bumpers mount. Red is a 72 and green is a 74. There's a gusset on the inner fender by the radiator support on the green 74. The green car is a 72 with a 74 nose spliced in at the front of the shock towers. Chuck Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
-
The lower inner fender is rusted away on the left side. Even with new frame rails you'd still have to make that area. If it were my 240Z I'd fix the rust or replace the nose with another 70-72 240Z nose rather than use a later nose. If I remember and have time tonight I'll get some pictures of the early and late inner fenders so you can see the differences. Chuck
-
My other 1972 240Z race car has a new nose on it. I think it's from a 260Z. The issues I think you'll have are with the front bumper mounts and radiator. You might have to drill a few holes to mount some things but nothing major. There might be some mounts that you'll want to remove from the new nose. If you're that concerned about keeping things correct and original then you should get the same year donor nose. Being a 2+2 should make no difference up front. Chuck
-
Wow! Fish Heads? I haven't heard that in a long time. Chuck
-
KWS is a big Mopar guy. He joined our caravan from CA to Vegas for the Mopars at the Strip show. I talked to him during one of our stops and helped him at the show when he had a problem with one of his cars. Chuck
-
PLN at Summit Point. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
-
My race car had a home made aluminum air dam with downspout brake ducts when I bought it. You can laugh all you want but it had won many races and a few championships! Chuck
-
We use stock calipers, rotors and drums on our race cars and have no fade issues after 30 minutes of racing. The key for us is the Carbotech pads/shoes and high temp brake fluid. A guy in a 280Z doesn't even use any brake ducts yet he has won many races and a championship. Chuck
-
I'd like to get this out of my garage! Price lowered to $110. Chuck
-
Prices lowered to $60 and $20. Chuck
-
ASC (American Sunroof Corp) made 400 power sunroofs for the 1969 Dodge Charger. In 1970 they were a factory option for the Charger and Challenger. The company Chuck
-
Yes. The trouble is sealing the flares at each connection. I've done the tighten/loosen game and have to keep going tighter each time until it seals. I then press the brake pedal really hard and checks for leaks. I haven't pulled any threads from over-tightening and they've always sealed so I'm happy with them. Chuck
-
I've been using ITM on my race engines for a few years and have no complaints. Chuck
-
I've bent regular steel lines and thought it was easy but haven't tried SS. The pre-bent SS lines for the RR and 'cuda are bent in half when shipped. They were easy to make straight. They also have to be tweaked to route through/around the frame, etc. and I found that easy to do as well. Chuck
-
I know that SS lines have been used in the muscle car world for over 10 years and I've never heard of an issue. I can tell you that getting the brake lines to completely seal at the connection take a lot of torque. Other than that I have no complaints. I used SS brake and fuel lines from The Right Stuff on my Road Runner and AAR. I think my brother has them on his '67 Belvedere II. Chuck
-
I think this is the way to go. I bought the small dolly for bare blocks and the larger dolly for complete engines. To support the engine I took a 4 scrap pieces of 2x4 (2 in front and 2 in back) to support the engine. I plan to buy a bunch more of each. They roll really well. I have a threshold between the big work bay and storage area and they rolled over that with ease. Chuck
-
I think it says that the carpets are torn. Aren't there holes where the snaps should be? Pic of the old guy is great! Chuck
-
Maybe all of those old boxes are empty? Wouldn't that be funny??? I didn't see anything worth very much but I didn't look up all of the part numbers either. I think that for $3000 the seller could list the part numbers for us. I think it's a big gamble to bid on that stuff. Someone on Facebook recently had a ton of Z stuff for sale...truckloads! But it was mostly just pic of boxes. I asked if he had a list of parts but he didn't. How can I make an offer if I don't even know what I might be buying? Chuck
-
Here's a pic of some 240Z wheels. You can see the date across from the valve stem. Chuck Sent from my Moto G Play using Classic Zcar Club mobile
-
Pair of 280ZX fender emblems. Very good condition. Chrome is excellent. $60 shipped. 280ZX TURBO hatch emblem. Very good condition. $20 shipped. cbuczesk@comcast.net
