vercingetorix

Bent bar,bushings, its a B. Any ideas as to where to find parts? Its popping out of third but has no other issues but I want to be prepared. A mechanic friend persuaded his transmission guy to do it but only if I supply the parts. Best, H Houghton

Arne, Mine looks a bit different than the one you posted, there is an upright fork that the shift bar fits down between secured with a pin and two nylon bushings and there is a long flat bolt down plate forward of that. Could it be a F4W71B?? Best, H Houghton

I am looking for parts to rebuild my transmission but first wantd to confirm the model I have. According to the parts CD a F4W71A is correct for my early '71 bulid date 9/70. But since the engine was replaced with a 280 I want to postivley ID it. I can't seem to find any stamps and only found a large L1 on the side. It is a four speed so I assume the CD is correct but want to verify. Also where can I find parts besides bearings and seals? Best, H Houghton

Beauty, I knew I could depend on ya'll. I will disassemble tomorrow and have a look. Best, H Houghton

I just got a couple of original horns and both seem to be inoperative(hooked them directly to the battery to test them) Does anyone know if they are rebuild able and how? I made a half-hearted search of the forums and came up dry. Thanks, H Houghton

Finally got to the bottom of this maddness! After checking the obvious,fuel,spark etc. I thought again about XRAY's comment about vacuum leaks and began to go over hoses etc. and lo and behold a gaping leak. The vacuum fitting right in front of the one for the vacuum asist for the brakes was completely open I reackon it about 1/4 of an inch, some how the end of the rubber cap had come clean off leaving a rubber sleeve with no end so it was kind of diffcult to see. I suspect that the end was old and rotted and began to leaking causing my beginng problem and then perhaps a backfire through the carbs just blew the end right off, I can't think of any other explanation, stinking bizzare! Anyway I replaced the rubber cap and homeboy fired right up, idled right down and is now running perfectly. Who'd of thunk it! Thanks for all the input,without all the differing takes and detail I'd still be chasing myself! Thanks again to all, esp. XRAY This site is the best on the net.

Checked plugs this PM and everybody was burning fine, no fouling, all a nice tan. I'll mess with the fuel next unless anyone has another thought on this. Also checked the distibutor rotor and cap, probably could use a new one but looked fine. Best, H Houghton

The timing is about 14deg w/o vacuum hose and 20 exactly with it on. I dont know what the spread is supposed to be so maybe the vacuum advance is leaking? I'll pull plugs tomorrow and order a new fuel pump as well. As the whole situation kind of crept up on me, I think Arne may be right. But I'll let you know as soon as I know. Thanks, H Houghton

Pump is a stock mechanical and a couple of years old. Would the dampner have any effect?

Must be my turn for car trouble! Homeboy was running great until about two weeks ago, Then started acting bad at cold start up, backfiring through the carbs and dying and really difficult to start, but would straighten out once it warmed up. Then refused to idle and began missing at cruise speed. Now all of the above are worse and idle is at best erratic(up to 1200 and drops to under 500, though its set about 800) and at worst it stalls when I take my foot off the gas at stop lights. I changed the fuel filter even though it appeared OK and checked the timing which was right on the mark. I checked the compression two months ago and all cylinders were great. I'm stumped. valve lash? vacuum leak? E-1280 dying? Sticking valve? Now I'm paranoid to leave the driveway with it. Any input greatly appreciated. Best, H Houghton

Thanks Mate! Found a couple of parts I needed! Shouldnt be difficult to bust the myth of insurance company with brains, these are apparently mutually exclusive terms. Best Regards, H Houghton

Hello, I am in deperate need of heater control panel any progress in that arena? The morons at my insurance company are trying to TOTAL my car because of a smashed Heater control panel and a stolen stereo system and they are too lame to locate parts and wont accept used or allow me to do the labor!! I am pursuing a used one but new or NOS would be brilliant, I could save the used parts for another day orZ. Also looking for an insurance company with a brain. Best, H Houghton

True Dat

Yeah, cop was nice but who cares about a stereo smash and grab, they probably wont even check the pawn shop three blocks from here. What grates me is the damage to my Z.

Finally talked to the insurance adjuster yesterday and was told I could take the Z anywhere I wanted to get it fixed. Now I wouldnt mind taking it to a resto shop but #1 I've done all the work so far #2 Dont think there is one for 3 or 4 states around. #3 I'd probably end up finding the parts anyway unless they specialized in Z resto. So that said I guess my question is How can I fix it myself without getting the shaft from the insuance company for my labor. I don't mind working for nothing for myself, but certainly not for them. Any input appreciated. Best, H Houghton

Richard craniums? Is that the same as a bloody moron?

Me too! As soon as they're ready I'm in.

Left my office to get in my Z only to find that it had been broken into and my new stereo and amp stolen... But wait theres more!! The dash panel inset was totally destroyed along with the dash light, all connected wiring,controls etc etc etc etc. Bad enough to be hit by thieves but incompetent ones makes it worse. They would have been better off stealing the parts they broke and selling them on Ebay. AAARRRRGGGGGHHH:mad:

Got mine at MSA

It was the bushings for sure, new ones came in yesterday and are 1/4 wider and a good bit heavier. Will get them in on Monday or Tuesday. There is a small amount of play in the column. By holding the the do-nut coupler and reaching through the window and moving the wheel I have isolated the slop btween these two points. I assume that it is in the interface between the solid shaft and the collapsible bit in the middle? Let me know about your part. Best, H Houghton

In an attempt to replace my steering rack and bushings I came across this problem. I purchased a rack from a guy thinking it was a '73. (box labled '73) Thought it would be fine looks pretty much the same only a little heavier perhaps. Everything bolts up fine, but the bushings (new MSA urethane) Are 1/4 of an inch narrower than the seats for them in the rack. My question is: are the bushings too norrow or could this be a rack from a '74 260. Also found a tiny bit of play between the steering coupler donut and the steering wheel itself. What the heck is that? The splines in the steering wheel itself? Any input greatly appreciated. Was hoping to race around on the mountain a bit. Thanks, H Houghton

I always heard the VW Kharman Ghia referred to as the poor mans Porche. I say bag the Porche drive the Z.

Summer before last I replaced my series one dash with a nice un-cracked one. I was delighted, until a small crack developed dead center at the windshield and began its slow march outward. I was not pleased. I was envisioning slow disaster. I noticed that when it was cool in the morning that the crack was wider and as it warmed up the crack would close. So I waited til it was warm but not completely closed and used some super glue gel on it and let the warmth close it the rest of the way. It has been 2 1/2 months and the little monster seems to have stopped and the glue is hardly discernable. This is of no use to the large established gashes but seems to have cured this one. Just a thought Best, H Houghton

Japanese car... Japanese plugs I installed NGK Iridiums, a bit pricey but seem to fire hotter and definatley last longer

Check with Dave, He'll know. Zs-ondabrain Best, H Houghton