vercingetorix

So Comforting!!

Also as to changing the depth of the seal, is there no seating ridge??

Do i have to remove the timing cover to get the seal out? I thiought that the bottom of the timing cover also seals the front edge of the oil pan gasket and I would avoid that can of worms if I can. Best, H Houghton

I have been monitoring an oil leak for some time now and finally located it by de-greasing the engine. It seems to be coming from the front main seal and then blowing backwards over the rest or the engnie and front cross member. While I was looking I noticed that there was some coolant leakage from the same area, I assume the water pump. My question is Can I replace the front seal at the same time I do the water pump without pulling the engine? I have done some searches and the opinions are sort of divided and the ones that say its easy do not give a blow by blow description of how to do it, or where to find the info. Any input appreciated. Best, H Houghton PS I also need to know the proper size of bolt that holds the fan shroud. The PO tied it on with zip ties! This ranks right up there with the lawn sprinkler fittings I found when I replaced all the vent hoses on the gas tank.

:stupid::stupid::stupid: When my car first stalled on the road in the heat, my first thought was ,"fuel filter or Fuel pump" so there on the side of the road I checked the filter by disconnecting the fuel line at the pump and blowing backwards through the filter towards the tank. It felt clear and when I cranked it a few minutes later I could see fuel entering the filter and it started so I figured both were OK and the heat was the problem. A few days ago it was nice and cool so I(still thinking vapor lock) took it for a spin. It began to act fuel starved. So this time I took it home,removed the fuel filter and tried to blow through the inlet side of the filter and almost ruptured my ear drums it was so clogged up. Ten minutes and $3.00 later it runs perfect heat or cool. But I am grateful for all the instant help and suggestions. Best H Houghton

This is a bit off topic, but I am thinking of replacing my drums as well. My question is should I stay with the cast iron ones that are on it now or switch to aluminium. Is there any gain or loss with one or the other? H Houghton

Ahhh. I thought it had been stripped off by some PO. I've always hated the way insulation looks so perhaps I'll leave it stock.

In my on-going battle with vapor lock I decided it was probably time to replace the fuel rail insulation, since its been missing since I've had the car. Does anyone sell this part and if not what is a suitable substitute? Thanks all, H Houghton

He was the honorable Gaul

My first ride was in a '71 from a used car lot. I fell in love with the first Z I ever saw in late 1969 or early 1970 at a dealership but being a poor freak I couldnt get one, A couple of years later(now married and still broke) when they started showing up on used car lots my weekend recreation consisted of "test driving" the ones I found on the mountain roads outside of town.

Today a new glitch... couldnt log in. My password was rejected and I had to reset.

HOLY TOLEDO!! MSA lists electric pumps @ $267.00

At least its not just my techno-ineptitude

I do live at 7000 ft, does the altitude have a marked affect??

Seems my email notification of threads I'm waiting for replys on has stopped working, can anyone tell me how to fix it? H Houghton

Just another side note on my fuel system, I need a piece of the smaller braided fuel tubing for the return line from the fuel rails. The dealer here does'nt even list it. Does anyone have a line on it or a replacement for it, mine is cracking and I can't push it up any further. Gary, Thanks again for the pics and detailed explanation, outstanding! Best, H Houghton

I'll check tomorrow. where and how does the electric pump mount exactly, and is the wiring for it already ignition hot?

it seems like its running out of gas, if I stop it will bumble along for a couple of minutes before it dies completely. But wouldnt vapor lock keep the fuel bowls from filling also? The fuel pump is comparativly new maybe 18 mos. or so.

You mean the fuel rails?

For the last two days every time the temp goes a little above the center of the gauge, I'm guessing abut 195 to 200 or so,the engine quits and won't start again til it cools down. I have never had this problem before and the heat on one trip last year went quite a bit higher than it is now with no problem. I've checked the obvious,water level, fuel filter, fuel pump etc. and found nothing. The outside temps have been a bit higher than normal but nothing serious and heat like this has never been a problem before. I'm stumped. I am running Z Therapy SU's if that means anything. Any input greatly appreciated. Best, HCH

Sure enough, I waited until 11 PM tonight when things cooled down and went for a drive and the quirky little thing worked fine! But... does this mean that this tach is beginning its journey south?? Is there a time prognosis? I just hate working under that dash. Thanks again, HCH

I was actually going to put in my original post that it has been unseasonably warm here, but in relation to other places like phx. I didnt Think it was relevant, but maybe thats it. I'll take it out this evening in the cool and see if its working. I do have an extra tach I can install, I just dread dealing with anything under the dash, no room. Also any repair info would be much appreciated as I do like to keep spares of most anything. Thanks all, HCH

I kinda like the grape ape

Went out to start the Z this afternoon and noticed that after start tach needle was high and then slowly buried itself at 8 grand. I checked all the visible wiring under the hood and found nothing out of place. Any ideas? Tach dead? Silly thing worked fine yesterday. Maybe it's just old and tired like me. Any input appreciated HCH

Does anyone know if a '71 combo switch will work on a '73?? Thanks, H Houghton