Bcalvosa

I just put springs and new struts on my 240Z. Goal is "spirited" driving on the street, no true competition. I opted for Tokico HP's (blue) (same e-bay vendor -- they are great). They are valved similar to Illumina's on 1 or 2 -- taut, but not punishing. For springs, I used Turn 6 racing springs (no longer available, I believe). These are much stiffer than stock at 350 pounds/inch front and 450 pounds/inch rear. I have used Eibach, etc in the past, and they are mildly softer, but always left the front of early 240Z's about 1/2 inch higher than the back (probably not an issue on other models). Note that if you successfully drop the front an inch, you will have very short suspension travel. Make sure you pick up new jounce bumpers (urethanes work OK). I used MSA urethanes and trimmed about 3/16" off of the base to capture back as much suspension travel as possible. ZGuitar71 -- could your suspension bind be the strut housing bottoming out on the mount or jounce bumper. Your car looks sweetly low (great photo) and I have had to shorten (cut and weld) the strut towers, use VW front strut inserts, etc., whenever going that low...

I am running 215-60VR-15 Yokohama AVS ES100's on my 71 240Z (with 15" ZX Turbo Swastika wheels). I don't drive in the rain, but dry traction and dry cornering are great in my opinion for a tire with a 280 treadwear rating. 205-60-14 sounds short however... They are 23.7" high, versus around 25-26" for stock tires. If you want to keep your existing 215-60-14 size, you can pretty much only get it in all season tread designs. The Michelin Pilot XGT H4 is the only H rated I know of in that size... Good Luck...

I used the adjustable offset bushings. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC07A They do not give that much adjustment (about 1 degree). Make sure you get the camber wrench (you may want to buy two, they are aluminum and flimsy). The advantages were: Bushings move the bottom of the tire in, versus adjustable strut mounts, which move the top of the tire out (I did not have the tire clearance to spare!). Also, the further from the pivot, the greater "impact" sense you will feel. I haven't tried the Motorsport adjustable mounts, but have seen others that drastically increased impact harshness. As for the bushings, I have not noticed a significant change in impact harshness.

Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like they are mounted to an original Mikuni manifold. They also have the air horns mounted -- good feature. For the carbs themselves, the number you quote indicates that they are 40mm throttle bore. A good size for low RPM street use, but you would need 44mm units to pull 7K rpm on a 2.8 without restriction (you can do it with 40's, but it will be somewhat restrictive). Clean 40's have been running about $500 with manifold on E-bay. Note that like all carbs, these must be rejetted to match engine displacement and state of tune. If not a similar engine combination, figure about $5 per jet times 3 types of jets (main, main air, pilot) times 6 throats (basically $90 per jet change). A little more expensive than a Holley! Also note that Mikuni's have been out of production for years, and service parts are a little hard to come by. Motorcycle shops can help with some jets, www.wolfcreekracing.com has been helpful as well.