ZmeFly

Now look at the head on this cat. Remember you have been warned:finger:

In the world that could fix my pic.

Ill have to post mine now. Damn you Keith:finger:

Pics can be seen here http://www.pbase.com/bronte/fan_clutch Here are the instructions: A fan clutch is supposed to be a fluid coupling device that allows the fan to rotate less than the engine speed. Unfortunately, a fan clutch can slowly empty it's coupling oil overtime and often seizes. (the oil also can gel/thicken and grab). This means that it turns as fast as the engine! It results in: extra wind extra cooling false temp sensor readings (they are in the high velocity wind stream) delayed thermostat opening (it is cooled too much as it is in the high velocity wind stream) lots of noise possible damage to water pump due to unbalanced fan and torque on the water pump shaft Check for a seized fan clutch it by opening the hood with engine running in neutral. Rev the engine and listen/watch fan. If you get a wind storm and windy sound from fan area then your fan is seized. There are three solutions: 1. Replace Fan Clutch with new one (~$70) 2. Recondition Fan Clutch (~$5) 3. Remove fan clutch + fan and replace with 12V electric fan (~ $50-$200) I just reconditioned mine. It went pretty easy. Here is what you need: 10mm, 12mm, 13mm wrenches Knife Rags Brake/TB/Carb Cleaner or other solvent Oil Lacquer Thinner Here is how to do it: loosen alternator (13mm and 12mm bolts on mine) remove four 10mm nuts holding fan assembly to water pump pulley remove fan assembly Remove four long 10mm bolts that hold fan to clutch (note the old oily dirt in center ring of plastic fan. Wash fan in soapy water (paint it if you feel spanky) Remove four short 10mm bolts from rear of fan clutch Use knife to pry front and back halves apart (they are stuck together with suction) Drain remaining "honey" oil inside Remove O-ring and recondition with lacquer thinner Clean/flush aluminum halves with brake cleaner or similar Refill back half with oil and a few cap-fulls of lacquer thinner. Reassemble Check for leaks Reinstall Check for leaks and proper operation Hope this helps you out.

But for 500 dollars I think I could definetly find a better looking set of wheels. Escanlon is correct though in that polishing professionally does cost. Me personally I wouldnt pay that price though.

I was called a snot!:cross-eye

Though the parts that come with the car look good it isnt worth it in the end as you look at the car as a whole. With the repairs needed and seemingly repairs that will be in the very near future I would look for something else thats in better shape. Unless you can get this car for a song I would bother.

Who was the one that started this thread anyway??? HUH HUH HUH You might not want to see the horror that is me, hehe, if I appear on your screen I will not be responsible for any damage to, your monitor and or retna. You have been warned. Now if I see 2many's pic Ill post. You hear me Goober!! Take a pic of yourself and that Mexi-cali girl of yours.

Its kind of hard to argue with a motor that does the 1/4 in 12 seconds on SU'S!!! Webers or triple anything isnt always the answer.

If you have a new fan clutch then have at it. You can rebuild the clutch though.

one, I had to copy and paste as well.

HEHE, your going to get spoiled once you get that into your car. Trust me on this

I know your bummed but your biggest mistake with your set up was going with the Holley carb and Arizona intake. The Z wasnt meant to be used with a downdraft carb. It was meant to be used with side draft carbs. Sell your intake and carb, and get yourself a clean set of su's or a set from Z therapy. Go back to the dyno once you have those and your rings done, see the difference. there is a 12 sec na dual su carbed Z and hes in your area. That should give you a little hope. Maybe not, Im not sure if its North or South Carolina that he lives in.

Just look at what insanity causes you to do. Please keep your children very far away from this guy. http://www.public.iastate.edu/~tschrage/demo3.wmv

There is nothing wrong with the rear drums, they work really well. Upgraded pads for both the discs and the drums will do wonders, if you need more you can always upgrade the front discs. Either way I dont really see the necessity, less your autoxing or something.

those clutch packs now were you:cheeky:

in your gallery? If it is it looks to be a great buy!

a Z31 or Z32 diff, thats for sure, and if you also look it looks to use stub axles like the 240-280Z's not CV shafts. Looking at it my best guess would be from maybe a 240sx or the like, that isnt from a Z car.

I cant see trading in a #16 of 40 factory resto for a 350Z. I just dont get it. Well as they all say to each his own

for about the same price and made by Modine. I had one in a 73 I owned and never had a problem with it. It worked well.

shape I wouldnt think that it was the culprit. Usually it is the seal to the hatch and the secondary seal that most forget about that goes about 75% of the way around the hatch, its the smaller of the two and it goes up the sides and around the top. Mine on my 72 used to leak till i replaced that one little rubber seal. You might want to have someone spray a hose over the rear hatch area and glass to be sure of exactly where it is coming from so you dont spend unecessarily.

Then it is most definetly something going on in the rear of the car. It could be many things as most suggested. The first and easiest to check is the tire balance and make sure the tires themselves arent out of round. Another thing is wheel bearings, brakes hanging dragging, u joints, drive axle, diff, diff bushings tranny bushings, rear control arm bushings worn and pushing the wheels out. Do you notice any tire wear that you hadnt before?

I coudlnt tell what it was I just took a guess. It has so many things hanging off of it and on it.

Is some elbow grease, a scraper and a heat gun.

As far as that car goes, well I guess you dont want to keep your front wheels on the ground so thats why the valance is gone. Did anyone happen to notice the "NEW" centerline type dish wheels that cost 1500!!! and just to think no center caps either. What a rip