ZmeFly

hehe today was my bday and i went to the track to have a little fun. i thought that my ZXT was faster then what i was but im still satisfied with the results nonetheless. my first run though i had a great for first timer RT, the 1/4 time was horrible here the stats of the first run. R/T ... .978 60 ... 2.671 330 ... 6.556 1/8 ... 9.636 1000 ... 12.263 1/4 ... 14.503 MPH ... 97.09 Best run out of 4 R/T ... .708 60 ... 2.112 330 ... 5.899 1/8 ... 8.901 1000 ... 11.508 1/4 ... 13.549 MPH ... 101.90 as i kept going i kept getting better. launching with a turbo is definetly hard. i got beat by a cobra, that ran 13 flat, beat a newer camaro that beat me once, and beat a 78 camaro. im happy i think i did pretty good for my first time. this is all stock motor and injectors, 15#'s of boost, 944 ic, all stock driveline. some bigger injectors and a little more boost and im going to the low low 13's, maybe 12's:devious:

though the P90 will flow a little better, then main thing of it is with the P90 you will have to shave about .080 off the head, then of course shim the cam towers to maintian valve train geometry

parting it out and making a lot more then just selling it whole if you could hold onto it for a while hehe if you werent to far away i would buy it for spares.

the oil feed line to the turbo if it was on the drivers side

you want to pay me, ill let you buy your own parts. seriously though like others said this is the easiest thing you can do to your car. parts wont be that expensive, its easy to tune and do most of the work yourself with a basic set of hand tools. save money and time and buy the video from Ztherapy.com it will show you in detail step by step on how to tune your su's changing the plugs, new wires, filters and and fuel and oil, oil change, belts, cap, rotor, points if you have them are all extremely easy even for the novice on a Z. learn about your own car learn to work on it yourself and in that you will be doing yourself a favor as you will be education yourself in your own vehicle. you will save money time and if you need help we are here. 25mpg is easy to obtain in a Z thats stock.

WOW what a price!!!!!!!!

2many saying that he likes a 510 :cross-eye :cross-eye :cross-eye what has the world come too, and you cursed me one time for wanting one, shame on you:finger:

to go to www.Z32.net or www.Zcar.com for something of that nature

but dont qoute me on this.

the common tb upgrade from the 240sx its 60mm and isnt to hard to make work.

are the 75 and 76 280Z tank, no other tank will fit. it is kind of stuffed in there as well. something else you will have to do is change the fuel lines as well. its pretty easy concidering all you would have to do is the same anyone that has done a turbo conversion has already done. search some other sites for turbo conversions and you will find all the information you need to do this

so you know there is no snobbery here. it would be good for the rear and for the engine conversion for your Z, but honestly with all that rust i would pass on it for anything else. it isnt worth a whole lot considering all the rust repair that needs to be done which would seriously outweigh the low mileage. if he wants more then 2-500 then pass.

I dont know why or where people think the P90a is a bad head, if you think so then I think you may want to talk to jeff priddy. He is making at last dyno 458 horses to the REAR WHEELS with the P90a head. So if its not a good head then I guess something must be wrong here huh. The P90a is a good head, its quiet and nothing is wrong with the hydraulic lifters. No adjusting, quiet and they CAN BE REBUILT!!! Go with it and make what you want. I say its a good choice!

NE61

they way it mounts on the porsche is a 180 of the way i have it. and on the top which would be the bottom on the porshce there is a plate that mounts to a sub frame underneath. what i did was use a ss steel plate coming from the bumper and bolt it to that. so the two mounts that you see arent the only thing holding it on. i dont think i did to bad, it can always be better but hey. 2many you are right though, i think it was not wanting to wait and being a bit lazy with it that made me take the easy route. NEVER again I tell you

now im no professional and im far from being the best at anything, but i think i did a hell of better job on my ic install then that shop did with theyre work. me thinks it looks nice what do you guys think. i still have to get it all welded but its hooked up and running for now. i also have to get my bov welded on, i wasnt cocky enough to try that one.

ive been there done that before. you know what victor, thats one hell of a clean engine bay. all except for that, hmm i dont know, its just something in there that looks dirty haha just kidding, great looking insdie that engine bay.

:cross-eye can i get into your wallet for a few thingsROFL

you may have to pull the front cover. if you didnt keep tension on the chain

NGK wires or MSD superconductor wires.

for you ill give it since your trying so hard but 126 is the cheapes ill go on the S128's i have to go 46 miles round trip to ship them no since UPS has gone mental with there shipping rates!! fed ex is faster and cheaper.

you will get a sag in the car the only way to really test the springs is to do what gramercyjam posted. someone else said new strust shocks will help. that isnt true, a strut shock does not hold up a car. it only helps the spring dampen itself. shocks struts do nothing for lifting the vehicle. if that were true sinch i can compress a strut or shock i could hold up a car. see my point

the springs were so bad that when i put on msa's lowering springs which lower the car 1 inch i actually gained 2 inches in hieght. i believe the springs on my 71 i had were factory stock . as to your rear toe proplem, there is a plastic disc, the they place behind the brake assembly to adjust toe and camber on a car that didnt have it to begin with and also has drum brakes. i cant see why they couldnt use that to adjust the rear toe. it is hard and tedious work though.

the price for that kit is 275 + shipping for the stock rotor 126.00 i gave up on trying to find a reliable source for the spacers. ive seen many people sell them on ebay, and jskinnovations.com he makes and sells them as well. rotors are new bendix rotors, brakes are new remans with bendix semi-mettalic brakes all hardware is included with the calipers. what will you need to make this work for the stock rotor conversion, removing and or cutting the dust sheild, making a new hard line to the caliper or bending your existing one. for the 300ZX vented upgrade, .5 inch spacer, longers bolts to bold it up and the same as the above. hows that mr 2manyZ's

here they are