ZmeFly

now im no professional and im far from being the best at anything, but i think i did a hell of better job on my ic install then that shop did with theyre work. me thinks it looks nice what do you guys think. i still have to get it all welded but its hooked up and running for now. i also have to get my bov welded on, i wasnt cocky enough to try that one.

ive been there done that before. you know what victor, thats one hell of a clean engine bay. all except for that, hmm i dont know, its just something in there that looks dirty haha just kidding, great looking insdie that engine bay.

:cross-eye can i get into your wallet for a few thingsROFL

you may have to pull the front cover. if you didnt keep tension on the chain

NGK wires or MSD superconductor wires.

i found this on another site, its pretty funny check it out. Orgasmic Simulator

for you ill give it since your trying so hard but 126 is the cheapes ill go on the S128's i have to go 46 miles round trip to ship them no since UPS has gone mental with there shipping rates!! fed ex is faster and cheaper.

you will get a sag in the car the only way to really test the springs is to do what gramercyjam posted. someone else said new strust shocks will help. that isnt true, a strut shock does not hold up a car. it only helps the spring dampen itself. shocks struts do nothing for lifting the vehicle. if that were true sinch i can compress a strut or shock i could hold up a car. see my point

the springs were so bad that when i put on msa's lowering springs which lower the car 1 inch i actually gained 2 inches in hieght. i believe the springs on my 71 i had were factory stock . as to your rear toe proplem, there is a plastic disc, the they place behind the brake assembly to adjust toe and camber on a car that didnt have it to begin with and also has drum brakes. i cant see why they couldnt use that to adjust the rear toe. it is hard and tedious work though.

the price for that kit is 275 + shipping for the stock rotor 126.00 i gave up on trying to find a reliable source for the spacers. ive seen many people sell them on ebay, and jskinnovations.com he makes and sells them as well. rotors are new bendix rotors, brakes are new remans with bendix semi-mettalic brakes all hardware is included with the calipers. what will you need to make this work for the stock rotor conversion, removing and or cutting the dust sheild, making a new hard line to the caliper or bending your existing one. for the 300ZX vented upgrade, .5 inch spacer, longers bolts to bold it up and the same as the above. hows that mr 2manyZ's

here they are

should have said that just the bulb thing, forgot you still have to install them and remove them from the wheel well just the same its late what do you expect :stupid:

its the H4 headlight conversion. do a search for H4lights on zcar.com i think his email is h4lights@yahoo.com

but since spork has exactly what you need i would go with that just to be sure.

the vent (overflow) hose from the floats. check and readjust your float levels. make sure the system is working properly and its stopping the flow of fuel when your float reaches its stop point.

is your grounds for the brake lights.

from an 82 5 speed. what ya got

save on the motor and on some gas and get yourself a fourspeed automatic out of a maxima!! im sure you and your wife will be both happy

maybe it is the gearing of the tranny that is slowing you down. with that stroker in there you should be doing a better time then 15's, perhaps a 78 tranny is in your future. having it dyno tuned would be a good idea as well, see what the loss of power is and why its happening and get your car dialed in, i cant see why you wouldnt pull a better time. norm over at Zcar.com has a best time of 12.9 with a 2.9 stroker on dual su's, another went to 13.4 with a 3.1 stroker. as you can see your running a little slower then these guys, norm is the exception to the rule though. i would say mid to low 13's should be attainable. find out where your power loss is and go back to the track. your RT's are awesome though:devious:

the SR20det is a very common swap for great power and potential hehe 217 horsies straight out of the box and it responds to mods like no other. i know of one in my town pushing 380 right now, a very very sweet sounding motor to say the least, especially for a 4 banger

PVC?

has done that swap just like auxilary said. guess you posted as i was thinking. well anyway scottie has a 10 sec Z so you tell me if its worth it :devious:

i need the aac and associated parts i need the vacumn pump and associated parts that are in the engine bay. i can use a rear tail light panel from the interior, and the panel that is on the drivers side rear. shoot me an email or pm with pics of the parts that you have if you have them in decent condition thanks

there are many styles colors variety of vinyl that you can use for stripes. you want metallic they have that too. if you dont like it and or you get disgusted with the look well just peel it off. me ive seen a few that i do like and think that they are tastefully done. some i dont in the end its all up to you and what you want. like yellowbspz posted i like that style of striping with the cheveron stripes as ive heard them called. i think it goes back to the days of the BRE cars and looks awesome imo

ill say this much arnold is pretty smart when it comes to making money, and maybe just maybe he might do some good. you never really know. hear me no believe me later, california i am here to "pump you up"