ZmeFly

considering the pic and trying to look at it that way, id say buy it if the price is right

no core charges at all that is the price. the discount is just an incentive 2many. it might help to get people on here and working toward a better understanding of theyre car and they may want to work toward that goal for a discount. the onlyl extra charges would be shipping! and if only a handful of us are above 1k posts then we must be spending to much time here as well:ermm:

they are very customer oriented and customer service is excellent. also on another note unlike most places that you would call and or deal with on the net or by phone, the people that work there are knowledgable as well. shipping is done in a very timely matter and like i said before i dont think you could find a much better place to deal with. i give em the two thumbs up!

great job on the rotisserie, and especially for the price. good job! also from the looks of it the Z is looking to be in pretty good shape as well, not noticing much rust on her, and thats a good thing:love:

why you would want to buy locally, and from someone you know. honestly though, if you wan the best suspension parts for your Z then i would have to say that you need to bite the bullet and go for the tokico blue set up. its the best all around and theres been nothing but good said about it. not to mention nissan uses them straight from the factory. www.shox.com is the BEST place to buy these, cheapes as well and service is excellent. just a heads up

ive been checking into the other 4 piston brake upgrade as a kit to sell. the only thing is that i cant sell that as cheap as i can this set. i would be able to get the complete reman calipers, loaded, and rotors, you would have to buy the spacers unless i can find enough people to buy them where it would be feasible. i could probably sell this set for around 250-275, thats without the spacers though.

it is mad to work with your existing rotor. one my 71 240Z i had the same wheels as you have one your car now. there were no clearance issues at all. you dont necessarilly have to go to the larger mc but it would be adviseable as your are going to be pushing a lot more fluid with these calipers. some have said that you need a proportioning valve. i did not use one with mine and all was well. i did upgrade the mc though. one thing i can say is that you will have to change your braking habits, as they will put you threw the front windsheild if your not careful i was just braking as normal and using a little to much pressure, boy them 4 piston calipers really do stop you quick, to me it was like having power brakes on the Z.:cheeky:

when 2many tells you to keep the yellow ZROFL i have to admit though i would just swap out whats good off of the blue one and put it to the yellow one and keep from both any spares that you could use later one.

that will net you paying 200, just for the simple fact that your spending to much time hereROFL

sorry:cry:

this is for use with the stock rotor, complete remanufactured sets of calipers, brakes and pin and spring kit are included. the price for the set is 150.00 for member of the Classic Z Car Club if you have 500 posts 140.00 if you have 1000 posts 130.00 this is an incentive to help the community and get a good deal. shipping is by carrier of your choice and paid by the buyer

from places like advanced auto and the like for about 150+ depending on location. not to bad of a price and they come with a warranty

wow i have to agree with enrique, this is just way to much work to do for a safe and competent vehicle. i think its time to let it go.

but from reading your last post i dont know if your plannin on keeping the engine or not. another thing i would do as far as the cars total condition is do a compression check on the engine as well. other things come to mind as im not as tired as i was last night, look for any oil leaks, anything that would suggest misuse and or neglect. take a small jack with you, raise each tire, check for play in the tie rod ends, ball joints and wheel bearings. all this can be a good barganing chip. if the car is worth the money he wants for it then the seller shouldnt mind you going over it. as someone else stated do take it for a test drive, to check the clutch, get it to third and really romp it, it will slip if its starting to go. have someone follow you to check for smoking and or smoke when changing gears. listen to the car carefully it will tell you whats needed and wrong. i found a really decent 72 240Z. the car looked great, triple mikunis, hmm still remember how great they sounded, only thing is that the engine sounded like the bottom end was about to fall out of it. for the most i can say is really take your time, take the time to look everything over, dont skimp and or say ah well that looks good, if something doesnt seem right take the time to check it out. if the owner has reciepts ask to see them, have the owner show you what was done and see if what is on the reciepts was done. bah well im babbling now but you get the picture

msa is motorsport auto they are out of orange county california, a pretty good company though sometimes misunderstood, they do however have knowledgeable people and most of theyre employees own and drive Z's!! here is theyre web site Motorsport Auto you can get the spring kit but it would probably be just as easy to get a turbo oil pump instead and probably a little cheaper as well. the choice is yours in any case

whats the use of having a sports car with an auto unless you just wanna go straight:finger:

thats the biggest thing to look for. what areas to check, inside the car look under the carpets at the floor pans, behind the blower motor at the area where the battery sits, under the seats, wheel arches, hatch area, where the seat belts rest in the dog leg inside, spare wheel well. outside of the car check the rocker, frame rails floor pans underneath, wheel wells batter box area under the hood and in the wheel well, by the fuel tank, fuel door. i think i covered most of it. just really check the car over very whell for rust. use a magnet if you have too. good luck and i hope you enjoy your new Z if you get it.

that are one the door? if memory serves they are suppose to stave off the water from going inside. you might also want to check your door alignment as well. heh you in export, thats only about an hour away from me. i might have to take a drive up there and take a look at and could even lend you a hand with your Z. i miss my 71 i sold i regret getting rid of it but well you know how that goes. love to hook up sometime there arent many Z lovers in pa thats for sure. take care.

have more pics available, just email me at jaymes240 @ hotmail. com

these are 83 280ZX turbo wheels for sale in almost excellent condition. only one wheel has a small amount of curb rash, barely noticeable. wheels rate about 8 out of 10. centercaps included rating about 9 out of 10. 225 for the full set or best offer.

always glad to help whenever i can

looks really nice and clean for a canadian car. must have been garage kept. very nice!

but you dont have to, if your small framed you should be able to do it without removing the dash. as far as the core i would say it is good enough, but if i remember correctly they arent that expensive from the parts store if you want to be comepletly sure. also where are you at in pittsburgh im in uniontown, just southwest of pitt

its just a pain, also if you were to use a mechanical gauge you will see it is actually about 8 lbs or less at idle, very disheartening. that is why i suggested the spring kit for the oil pump from msa or get a turbo oil pump it will help out with the low pressure at idle

with readings like that how in the hell did you get it home. id adjust your valves into spec and just for shytes and giggles check it again, something doesnt seem right. good luck with any choice you make, if the reading stay true to what they are now, you will need a total rebuild and or find yourself a donor engine