ZmeFly

or thought you said was you had backfiring out of yoru carb, which would mean it is running lean. make sure to check all your adjustments before going on and running the car again. i would gap the plugs at at least .40, set your timing properly if you have a timing gun, get your carbs set properly or at least at a good base line.(you do have round top carbs im hoping) also make sure that your ignition system is up and running properly. are you points gappd properly?, new cap, rotor button? new wires? coil in good condition? on the tranny make sure that it is full of fluid and that its not dirty or brown looking or smells burnt. if your not sure of the last time it was serviced this may be in order. new filter and fluid. one other thing i can think of is your fuel system, did you replace all filters and inspect the carbs as well for any signs of rust getting into anything. good luck and i hope you get her running better

a complete sst set up with tokico struts on my 72, and it was the best handling car i have ever owned. sst sways front and rear 1 inch and 7/8's accordingly. sst springs, with tokico blues. it rode well but stiff, and handled like nothing i have ever owned before. i did have a front strut bar and i like it, it does help eliminate front structural flex. thats what i enjoyed even more then my coil over set up but then again that was something totally different. good luck with whatever you decide on

i think that they should have there hand cut off!

one the under car pics how much oil its leaking!! my god

go with the gunmetal wat's they look fantastic:love:

only dont use a flexible pipe that will eventually leak and look bad as well. you can go to www.jcwhitney.com, there you will find a section where they sell mandrel bent piping. you can either get aluminum or stainless. the stainless will not rust and doesnt cost that much. i think the price is like 18 dollars for 3 inch 90 degree bend. the k&n cone filter shouldnt run more the 39.99 so for about 65-70 dollars with shipping from jc, you have the same thing msa sells for almost half. good luck with whatever you decide.

3-4 dollars a plug. you better find somewhere else to shop for your ngk's if your paying that much. way way expensive!!!

but from what everyone says they are the shyte, top of the line, cant get any better. they are also very helpful, very customer oriented, and want to please you. so yes i would say if your thinking about buying there product whatever it is i would do so

but it looked kind of cool so i saved that pic to:classic:

i posted some pretty nice pics in the galleries look under "japanese classics"

it was about a nice little brass key chain, really nice and shiny. never seen one like it but, the shipping was 5.95!!!!! for a key chain. ummmmm ok, i dont think so. then it was well we dont ship it in a bubble wrap envelope. well guess what, thats how it came with a postage of .95 i suppose the 5 bucks was for handling that was from TIR!!

hope you enjoy your stay here and learn a lot.

i ran my gap in all my na cars at .44 .30 for the 240Z stock settings was to small to begin with as well concidering that the stock gap i believe (correct me if im wrong) was .35.

seems like you have a stroked 2.4 do yourself a favor and stay away from the flomasters. they hardly FLO that well at all. and would be a restriction in the exhaust. like the ones i mentioned would be good for your application. you may want to go down in size on your exhaust though liek leeroy mentioned and use qa 2.5 inch exhaust. 3 inch is just a little to much for this motor. good luck with whatever you decide.

carbs are nice, stock, easy to tune, and run nicely. injection in a 240 isnt what it came with, is much easier on the pocket, better mileage, starting, realiability, more power. what would i do. mikunis, 3000+ for a new set!!! you could get a stand alone fuel management system and a turbo motor for that price easily. event at used prices of what 500+, it just doesnt seem worth it for the minimal gains that you would get in comparison to FI. well there is always this to remeber also, you WILL NEVER get as much power out of a carbed system as you would an FI system. plain and simple

dynomax and magnaflo mufflers. i have one on my ZXT, dynomax that is sounds great. both have a sight with sounds of there muffs.

i take offense to that ZyouCruise statement:finger: my ZX doesnt cruise:devious:

a good Z is hard to find, kitty on the other hand is in abundant supply. my priorities are straight the Z first then, hehe sex in the Z:devious:

just make sure to get everything! you know that little piece that attaches it to the block as well for an easy as dropping it in swap. then just make sure your at TDC and line the wires up. also you will need to remove your ballast resistor as you will no longer need it. its a good and easy swap and i personally like it lots. remember to get the whole assembly though, if you dont you will have heart ache trying to line it up good luck

msa and get yourself some por-15 boss gloss. this is some truely excellent shyte!!!!! it wont hurt your plastic and or vynil and it actually has uv inhibitors in it to block that nasty mean old sunROFL seriously though this is an excellent product

but make sure you get one from nissan, i tried one from a parts store i cant remember what the brand was but it was completely and totally inferior to the nissan brand in shape form and construction.

L28 = most likely the 2.8 block L28E = 2.8 fuel injected engine (E)fuel injected) L28ET = 2.8 fuel injected turbo (T)turbo) LD28 = 2.8 deisel

except the clay bar. i also used to make sure all craks and jams were clean, under the wheels windexing and wiping down the springs and struts. getting under the hood and doing the engine bay. i was quite anal but not as much now. just do the three step wash, cleaner wax, mirror glaze, then gold class carnuba, and i use meguires. it is true thow when you first go threw this it hurts but once you get it down to the nitty gritty and you have that good coat of wax on it, its easy to keep looking top notch. oh by the way, no pics?????

with the problem of getting it in gear have you serviced the tranny yet with new gear oil and looked at and or replaced the slave cylinder and hose. you may be maybe not trying to start off at to low an rpm when taking off. if you feel there is a problem and there is vibration check the outside components first. ie drive shaft and ujoints. could be where that vibration is coming from. also do you know when the clutch was changed last. might just be time for a new one