ZmeFly

since im not understanding the specs really represented here i have a question. not much i see is different between the 240 and the 280 but the 260 cam is different just slightly by the specs posted on this sheet for anyone that may know which is the better cam?? <a href=http://www.geocities.com/bruskiz/ZCamSpecs.htm target="_blank">cam specs</a>

but you wanted the TH350. hehe there good for draggin if thats what you wanna do. i would definetly go with the 200 R4 over the 700. the 700 is know to have clutch band problems

great is a turbo convert period end of it. unless you have unlimited monies then i would say an RB26 turbo:love:

for 2500 then your not looking !!!! i found over 8 that i had persons i know look at there and settled on the one i have now. look to the left of this post. cost after flight and return home just over 3000 and i live in pennsylvania. so you tell me just search and ye shall find.

junk yards and what not. TH350 trannies are a dime a dozen. i can buy them here all day long for 75-125 you should have no trouble finding one

cuz i think they look nice on a z but last i heard they were discontinued

and if you do is it in good shape. i would really like to have that

i love the car, i really do:love: but when it comes down to it making the changes making it faster and putting all the work back into another Z. i just dont know. im getting a lot of flack from the old lady too. :tapemouth plus insurance on two cars for me. time i spend working on it. then not being able to drive it like now were under snow so it sits and i hate to see a car sit. who knows really, shes sweet beautiful, fun, but then i think of doing all that work again like the last one. and then having something happen to it. i dont know if i could do that again to yet another. i mean my black 72 had lots of cash into the engine and suspension. just to have someone smash it. then it was hit and run. figuring costs for a turbo convert and to have someone wreck this one too. i have about 500+ just in the parts i have now. engine 350, then fuel pump 150, good gas tank say 150, new lines and hoses, new injectors 300+ new exhaust even if i make it about 250, just to much money to spending on a car and have it all taken away again. maybe im just down about doing so much or seeing my work of art get destroyed. id much rather have something im not so worried about. guess thats it i just dont know.

also remember the firing order on the distributor is counterclockwise

if its a newr vtech these things have 195 hp!! and if your not that modded or with out 5 speed and a good rear forget it.

because this guy that did this or the company head that did this to a Z should be shot!!! now this is what i call sick sick sick no car should ever have to go threw such degradation. not even a honda in this case though is its a 86 300ZX poor poor car. hmm saying comes to mind about fools and there money http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873373949&category=6398

hey dougherty where are you located, id love to come see that if your close enough. im in uniontown pa southwest of pitt about 50 miles

and as 2many pointed out it is a decent system. the best thing i can say about the msa system is that it does have all mandrel bends

as they say misery loves company. and as my funds are tight and my state isnt a warm state all year round. my Z is going too. im sure sometime ill get another. but im opting for something i can drive all year round ie. a new lik Z32 Z or a supra turbo just cant stand driving the ford all winter well its been great though mine hasnt sold yet bye all

Miles:89000 Cost:$5500 Exterior Color:racing yellow Interior Color:black Vehicle Description 71 240Z with older msd ignition, 280ZX distributor, headers, exhaust, older style recaro seats, momo shift knob, k and n filters, front and rear sway bars, MSA lowering springs. complete matching numbers engine E31 head with 155#'s of compression on each cylinder. tires are almsot new with at least 75% tread. wheels are completelly polished. the car is mostly original with the exception of the aforementioned things, spare tire and hold down also there plus an extra spare, and comeplete jack kit in excellent original condition. this is a california car in excellent condition with no rust and sporting a fresh new racing yellow paint job. included with the car are the following items. a complete set of pistons and crank(balanced) only 10 k on each. i also have a five speed (which is installed on the car now), rear hatch, few intakes and some other miscellaneous, ie starters altenators, drive shaft quarter glass and the like. not included will be almost all you need to do a turbo conversion as i had planned. that includes, (all bought from jeff priddy), centerforce dual friction clutch (complete) including a surfaced and balanced flywheel, AFM, computer, complete wiring harness with new connectors and most relays, and a nickle plated turbo manifold that has been ported. i also have a new set of toyota 4 piston calipers with all hardware ready to bolt on and go. Vehicle Condition is excellent not a problem one. i have a digital camera that i can take pics of any and everything you want to see. this is an excellent car. im also currently searching for a rear bumper. pics here and in my gallery http://zdriver.com/classifieds/rides/viewitem.php?cat=1&relIdx=19&item=10327

here it is http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/relays/

sounds like the easiest plan of action and also the best alternative to avoiding anymore thunking :stupid: headaches

now see you have only one problem left see you had the bug when you didnt have a Z now that you got one your fatally infected with Z love:love:

i got the following from an 'olde Motor Manual i find useful in troubleshooting...hope it helps you locate the cause. run on is caused by improper idle speed and/or high temperature. high idle speed will increase the tendency to diesel because the inertia of the crankshaft and flywheel. too low an idle speed with a lean mixture will result in higher engine temps especially if idled for long periods of time. because advanced ignition timing raises idle speed and retarded timing reduces idle speed, timing influences the tendency to diesel in the manner noted above. enriching the fuel mixture decreases run-on by causing the engine to run cooler. as does high octane fuel. plugs of too high a heat range can cause dieseling. if the throttle plates are not aligned properly, a lean mixtture occurs. if the popping back is in the intake, the usual causes are: 1. lean mixture (often due to dirt or water in fuel) 2. engine cold and choke too lean 3. leaky or sticking intake valve or weak/broken intake valve spring 4. leakage of current across distributor cap or two mixed-up plug wires if it is a muffler explosion, it could be caused by: 1. late ignition timing or valve timing 2. burnt exhaust valve or weak/broken exhaust valve spring 3. tight exhaust valve 4. if ammeter swings away from zero when charging...intermittent open in primary 5. if ammeter swings toward zero when charging...intermittent short in primary 6. short in coil or secondary coil wire if you got a subdued put-putting at the tail pipe, it could be a leaky exhaust valve. this is mostly to occur when the mixture is lean. this is just some other things to also look at so you have your car running well as a whole

the standard pitson is 86mm, from what i know you can go to a 88mm piston, now not know exactly what that is in over bore that is the safest. you could go to a 89 mm piston, but thats reallly pushing it and you should have your block checked first before attempting such a great leap make sure your starting out with a good block first then decide exactly what you want and go from there

i have heard of but didnt and or dont know anything about this. people swapping the 260 cam in for the 240 cam saying is a bit of an ugrade is this true and why anyone ??? thanks james

its not its called racing yellow i wanted the brightest that they could get. most of the car is original. cept the new rear panel. there was only one rust spot on the entire car which was the passenger side all the way at the rear of the floor pan. looked like something actually went threw the floor. but thats been fixed long ago. it has older style recaro seats, and a header and exhaust that also came with the car. everything else is original i purchased it in la california. i am going to remove the original engine and replace it with a turbo and 5 speed. still not sure if i will stick with the R180 and get a quaife lsd or go with the nissan 87 turbo lsd. still undecided. but thats about all for now the rest is all stock 5/71 build date. shes a bueaty i also had the door gaurds removed too.

just gotta love that shine:love: