ZmeFly

Want to check your bushings for wear. I wouldnt necessarily say go back to stock, if you click on my page, you can see my car, i have a tokico set up. its nice!

Go with a turbo motor, rebuild it, buy a good ic, plumb it, 60mm tb, T3/T4 turbo, HKS metal head gasket, boost controller, LSD rear and a complete from turbo back 3 inch exhaust. For your 4k that should put you at about 350hp easily with a little to spare if you spend wisely. Best overall bang for the buck, starting you off right away with an extra 30hp. Thats before any mods

Would be the best way to go. I belive depending on how bad it is, that you could get the camber adjustment kit from MSA also.

And pay much less for the turbo afm you need. Seems a bit high to me.

There is a guy on ebay selling earls braided clutch hoses for 34.95. Damn shame concidering people buy them yet you can get them from MSA all day long for 19.95ROFL

You will need these items Turbo AFM Turbo Fuel pump Turbo engine wiring harness Turbo ECU Turbo Fuel dampener Turbo distributor (runs on CAS) Turbo coil with ignitor

You see the cost of parts for this thing. Heres an example Accessory Products - Clifton, NJ - $402.35 $402.35 - Standard Shift, Headlight Covers, Halogen Lamps Headlight covers 50.00 MSA Halogen Lamps 18.90 a pair any parts store Standard Shift ???????? what the hell does that mean Stay away from that car, the owner wants to much and its basically not worth it. The other car is from Maine, ie east coast lots of snow. Unless you get pics of the floor pans and frame rails and all the rust areas dont bother.

To at least swap out the ECU and engine harness.

Never ever had a problem with mine in the year that I had the car, till a no paying attention to what she was doing girl in a Neon of all things backed into my 72 and ruined it for life!

There is a man that runs ported dual su's on a 2.9 storker and runs 12's in the 1/4. What does that tell you. Now as far as the performance of your car what I would do first is make sure your car is in tune. ie: Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. If you havent upgrade to an electronic ignition. Make sure your valves are in proper adjustment and make sure that your su's are balanced and in tune. Also you could do a compression check to see if your motor is tired as well. Do this after your tune up. Check back with your results and see how the car runs after you have a good tune up done.

The chore of switching from an automatic to a manual shouldnt be that hard, just work filled. If your not that mechanically inclined, it may cost you a bit for a shop to do it. As far as if the gear boxes are easy to get, over in the usa, they are plentiful, not sure of the situation in your area. Ask around, there are quite a few members from around the other side of the globe.

In your neck of the woods, as long as its pretty rust free thats a good price. Take a look at it and see what the condition is. If it is in good rustless condition, maybe offer him 3500 and see if he bites. Good luck and let us know the outcome.

Quick, easy, very cheap and bolts right in easily. If you know what your doing you could be running in less then 20 minutes. Also, you can get a newly remaned distributor for the 79-80 ZX from advanced auto for about 79 dollars with a lifetime gaurantee. Price may have went up though since last time I did that it was about 3 years ago.

Though it would be a little more costly, there is a man on ebay selling good quality fans that pull 1800 cfm, more then enough for your Z. Cost 35-45 dollars. Get yourself a thermo-switch to control the fan, and your good to go. Cost 17-40 dollars.

24.95 a pop! :cross-eye Umm you would be better off going to your local Advance Auto parts or like store. They have the spicers for about 12 bucks each.

On a L238ET, a complete from turbo back 3" exhaust will make up to 20 hp and 18ft lbs of torque with that mod alone on an otherwise stock motor. Doesnt sound to ricey to me. Unlike in the N/A world, a turbo motor needs to breathe freely as possible. Reason for 3" and mandrel bends, so there is no reduction in exhaust flow.

You could get those numbers with a STOCK bottom end. But, you will need more fuel, AFPR, bigger injectors, bigger turbo, good ic, 60mm tb, and I would suggest at least the Z31 ecu maf swap.

You cannot buy a Header for a N/A vehicle that will work with a turbo. If you want an exhaust that will work with the turbo, I would say get at least a 2.5 MANDREL bent exhaust. Either that or wait till you have the turbo motor and save your cash for a 3 inch install.

That sure is one sweet Skyline, something I would definetly love to own. :love:

I just get a blank page. Someone post pics!

2many is spot on, if I remember correctly late 72 definetly 73 models came with a sway bar on the rear. HEHE as far as the bump stop material, what would you call that stuff in there:cross-eye

What you failed to mention in that vid with the S2000 and the M3 and the Boxter was how for the first 3 laps, that Skyline was doing some very good blocking for the 350Z. If you ask me, if it wasnt for the Skylines blocking I think the S2000 would have taken the 350Z easily.

What happened to the full race cage that all BSR cars had? Not that Im picky but come on 300hp from stock electronics, let me see that DYNO SHEET!! I would guess you could contact some of the old Team Members to verify the VINs used by the team during it's racing seasons, and I bet they can account for every one. Hmm I guess I must have 8 grand laying around for a valve cover. ROFL

Only two things I dont like about it is sorry, but you know opinions, there like "A" holes everyone has them. Mine is the cowl hood look on a Z just doesnt really fit, me personally I never did like them at all. Second should have went with a 5speed. Besides that a truely gorgeous conversion.

That was to hilariousROFL ROFL