ZmeFly

aka arizona, texas, florida eh well maybe, california would you please be on the lookout for me for a running and fairly clean 240Z, year not important. just want a clean body mainly, some rust is eh ok but no floor pan or frame rail rust. please guys help!! thanks

that cute little footsie in the picture. is that part of the sale also

15 x 8 wheels or a 16 x 7 wheel without having to buy coil overs. leaves for a wide variety of choices in tire sizes

now you can give all your fellow Z lovers what they need which is a source from japan. with that alone you could make tons of cash, sorry to hear that you have to sell your car but im happy that your getting what you want in life and moving to somewhere that you want. good luck with your future endeavors and i hope the move and all else goes well one thing though, never stop enjoying the ride:classic:

first its a one owner then its a three owner but he contends in his ad a one owner though he bought it for the guy that bought it from the original ownerROFL now that is all over it has surface rust and some holes. the buy it now is 9000 for this 1972 240Z i guess i should have sold my 71 for 12k huh:ermm: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408472153&category=6187

more brake surface 4 piston versus 2 piston, greater stopping power, it will make your Z stop on a dime gaurenteed

what i did to make the shifter fit was take and put the shifter in a vice and heat the shifter itself till a made an almost 90 degree bend in it right where the bushings and bolt that holds the shifter. of course remove bushings, about 2.5 inches back i made about an 85 degree bend using the same method. it fit in perfectly without any problems what so ever. if you do this remember to cool the shift with oil as not to hurt the temper in the metal, i had no problems with my shifter at all after doing this and the fit was perfect

but why would you spend the money on that exhaust, imo its just to much for what they give you. you could purchase your own mandrel bends and pipe(stainless steel) from places like jc whitney and get a good dynomax or ultraflo ss muffler and still be ahead in the cost department of what an HKS cat back system would cost you. i guess its all in what you want to spend and what you want to have on your car. me personally i would pass.

you should have more then enough especially if you do most of the work yourself. if not labor costs will eat up more of your money then anything. if thats the case i would go with a 82-83 280ZX turbo motor. the 83 cars had the BWT5 tranny also. id go with a lsd from quaife for the R180 rear just to help you to stop from spinning the one wheeled wonder. this engine when built right can produce HUGE amounts of power. i ahve a freind in LA that has a stock looking 280ZXT minus the wheels and exhaust thats laying 450 HP and 530 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels. anyway like i said if you can do most the work for yourself you will be saving a lot. suspension work is easy though some of it can get hard specialy with the bushing replacement. dont let that get you down though its a right of passage so to speak when doing bushing replacement on a Z. there is a lot that you can do to the Z, and it will perform or outperform most newer cars. i had a 260Z that was turbocharged, wasnt much on the street that i could keep up with. good luck

but if you really wanted the car i would have it looked at or look at it yourself and then make sure he has a paper trail that shows that the car is as low mileage as he says

but where did you ever find yourself a 74 240Z:ermm:

it as far as i know, but im not knowing on the 78 trans. with the later trans it should fit just perfectly. you could always adjust with torch and welding to your like. i had a 72 with a 81 5 speed that came with the car. i do not know if the po had done anything to modify the shifter or not. didnt seem that way but im sure somone here will be able to help you. on my 71 i had when i put that same 5 speed in i had to bend the shifter in two spots to make a perfect fit.

resoration would be putting it back into its stock original form as from the factory. i think your trying to restore the body condition and go with something that has a little juice. in that case its easy any one of the motors from the later cars will fit easily and without modification. its as easy as pulling one out and putting the other in. as long as you stay carbed. you could go with fuel injection, then you would need the parts required, ie, in a 240Z, 75-76 fuel tank, larger lines for the fuel system, fuel pump, wiring harness and computer afm and the like. another popular swap is the 81-83 turbo motor just like swapping an fi system but with more boost you could do a V8 conversion, RB26DET, Supra turbo, its all up to you and how much money you have to spend to make YOUR car what YOU want it

are the same carburetor the weber DGV 32/36 it is a downdraft 2 barrel dual carb set up. not a bad carburetor but not the best between the names you mentioned there is no difference

but it wouldnt matter as long as you decided to switch back to the dual su's plain and simple the Z wasnt made for a downdraft carburetor nor for a four barrel

what about getting to use your car you best get started on that Z or im gonna have to pull out a can of woop arse:stupid:

shcnieder or crane cams?

they are quite an expensive set of filters. if i remember correctly the last quote i had for them was 120 with filters and the chrome covers. definetly not to cheap:tapemouth

it was the power wire to the coil or the ground i cant remember old age i guess but the car wouldnt do a damn thing till i hooked it back up

they may be old, and worn, check them first. then check inside to see if your butterflies are sticking. also check your linkage and see if you have any binds anywhere that might be holding it up. good luck james

first thing i would check is something simple and it happened to me was the coil wire came off

and its the same way we do it here in the states for state inspection of the vehicle. its the make sure the steering wheel is unlocked. raise the car under the ball joint area to releave any stress or pull on the joint. grab the wheel at 6 and 12 oclock and check for side to side play. should be more then .25 inches. now take a bar under the tire and check for up and down play. just like above shouldnt have more the .25 inches of play. if its moving and jumping about when testing it then i would replace it

except where it would come off from the header or original manifold

the reason from what i understand it was used to keep the injectors from experiencing vapor lock. with the 240 hood it will definetly get a little more hotter under there without the hood scoops

the 260 should still have the square exhaust ports and should fit accordingly. have at it