ZmeFly

in japan for about 175 to 200 dollars.

the thing im looking at is he says its mostly original, with the exception of a few things. it could would maybe be worth it but i would expect a concours condition car for the price that he is asking. heres another if you dont mind traveling a bit and looks extremely clean. http://www.vintagemotorssarasota.com/Car_pages/Datsun/70datsun.htm interior could use a little but i have never seen a straigter set of floor pans and frame rails ever in my life!!

and they are now selling it on Zcar.com for 4500

after reading the title i didnt even bother reading the description on the car you have to pay to play

and its 3k less, not sure the mileage is original but might be worth a look and its also in NC http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406510423&category=6187

it must be gold, and im sure it would be expensive. just wondering what type of setup they use to get those numbers

i like this one i mean the car looks nice but notice the indiscrepencies, with the all original matching numbers, heres part of the ad You are Bidding on a 1971 Datsun 240Z. It is bone stock and original right down the the interior. This is a serious survivor. The 240z was purchased in California and has been in California its entire life. This was a one owner car. I purchased this from the original owner who was 92 yrs old. The car only has 129,888 original miles. The quarter panels, doors, trunk, frame rails, are all rust free and original. This car was unmolested and garage kept for the past 30yrs. This car is 98% restored and all the hard work has been done. This 240Z still wear all of its original interior and the numbers match on the motor and tranny. The car wears Minilite wheels and tires with great tread. The car runs and drives like new with no mechanical problems. This would be perfect for any serious Vintage Datsun collector The motor and 5 speed transmission are origianl and numbers matching. The cars equipment consists of power disc brakes which work excellent and stops with no problem, It does not pull or wander, it drives down the road straight and handles like new! It has a front sway bar. The car had all new exhauset put on from the manifold to the muffler a few years ago. The car wers new strut Rod Bushings, Sway Bar Bushings, Sway Bar Links, Lower ball joints and Differential mount. It has a new power booster, master cylinder and new brake hoses. i didnt know that on american spec 240's that you could get a 5 speed, and notice where it says new power vac booster, yet in the pics its rusted. i also like the original dual mirrors too. heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406566410&category=6187

to make this combination and or what they use ?? The 2.7 Liter A big bore, long -rod combination utilizing the E-31 or E-88 cylinder head from your stock 240Z engine. Use your existing 240Z engine so your numbers match. SCCA Improved Touring style cylinder head. 200+ hp and 195+ lbs of torque sounds like fun any ideas anyone

i think he said it best no matter what you decide to do remember is what you want for your car. make it what you want and invision, and keep it to your satisfaction. dont fall into the norm of things and make it what others would think or want it to be but instead work hard on your car to make it the best Z for you and having it doing and running the way you want it:cheeky:

hes right, you can use the see threws but with no where to really mount it, it would be useful. hes also correct with the fram filter to. just like stock, inexpensive and works well

love that idea of the soldering for the holes. i ll have to do that on my next Z:classic:

the only gas tank that will fit the 240Z somewhat is the 75-76 gas tank, and that doesnt fit perfectly but does alright. sorry no luck for the ZX tank

i wonder if anyone had gotten a straight answer from this guy. from what i remember it just looks like the toyota 4psiton upgrade with 300ZX rotors

ye shall find. this latest one i found just happened to come across it and totally loved it. the last one i had before this was from an exotic car site it was a tommy kiara ZZ

the american site thats selling the tokico 5 way adjustables and springs for 500 a set really good price, might want to check that out:classic:

go to www.zcar.com and do a search for this name spelled exactly like this Tony D once you have done the search you will get his email address by clicking on his name in any of his posts. he has the megasquirt and is currently using it. he would be a good person to talk to and is very helpful in the Z community

you can post the serial number in a www.zhome.com they have a searchable data base that you might want to check out. if he put it in there as his car at one time it might still be there james

lot of money for not to much of a car. its ok looking but its not that great. one thing no pics second thing doesnt mention documentation third its in the rust belt:sick: i like the blue one myself

umm hello hopeful Z owner:ermm:

the question is the difference betweeen headers and stock manifold and its true there is not neglible difference in weight. with the small amount of articles you are speaking of there is NO significant hp increase, and still on a stock engine the header will not do much of anything in relation to gain power. that coupled with the fact of the cost of an equal length header, lets face facts after the heart ache and money, id keep the stock manifold hands down

but you will not save any appreciable weight with headers. as a matter of fact some of the headers weigh slightly more the then manifold. someone known to me has weighed the differences from the section for the F54 setup from headpipe to flange for the cat and it was only 2#difference( ie manifold vs header), still a savings over the header. the point is that the WEIGHT SAVINGS is NIL over the two, and in some cases, the header WILL WEIGH MORE

by rivets. some like to leave them off as i do. i dont like the look they give the Z and prefer myself to leave them off. i would put them on the way they came off with rivets. what i did to remove mine was to first of course remove the rubber from the insets of the side molding then carefully use a drill to drill out the old rivets. good luck james

Blue Oval Z on the hybridZ.org site. it is ONE RADICAL ride. it is as fast as it looks

im concidering this car for my next Z would someone please check this car out for me before its gone and i might miss on a good buy. <a href=http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/2/8/43471428.htm target="_blank">Z car</a> thanks for any help that anyone can offer the add says hes in burlingame or something like that but he said he is in san fransisco

the y shape is what i was refering too.