NH-75-Z

I'd recommend removing it. I took mine off 2 yrs ago, no problems at all. Starts at 24 degrees just like it was summer.

The injectors are flow tested when received by them...with printed results....and then retested after rebuild....with the printed comparison . The running results were noticable....much better response and performance...well worth the $$ . I got them returned with the 2" of new hose already attached which made connection to MY JSK fuel rail that much eaiser.

Think about the interface....where does fuel and oil meet in the L28 . Answer, is only in the cylinder. Fuel on top, oil on bottom. For the two to mix means a short circuit...and the only interface is the piston rings. So, if a cylinder is not firing due to poor ignition, its raw fuel is staying in the cylinder, bypassing the rings somehow, then diluting the oil below. I don't see any connection to bearings, nor head gaskets.' However, with 2,000 miles on new rings, they should have seated OK by now. Which leads to the question about fuel in the oil? Is it just by smell? The only direct interface via gasket is the coolant/oil in the front cover. Just my 2 cents...good luck. Just read your post about Witch Hunter after I posted and I highly recommend. He rebuilt my injectors and they work great

Since the 240 has only "pieces" of carpet...all can be removed....unlike the 280 that has it over the tunnel,etc. So I took the pieces...put them in the doggie pool out back...and washed them in Tide with Downy Fabric softner. Came out great !!! Just like new. And they smell Fresh !! Interior vinyl washed down with vinyl cleaner and Armoralled. Replace the torn seat covers and the interior looks like new !!

Thanks again all....I got it free. Lots of Pent. Oil squirted in thru the access hole that is plugged with that rubber plug, tension put across 2 studs, and hammered around the drum circumfrence with 2 pound hammer. Interior surface clearly showed footprint of brake pads..then just turned adjuster nut back and hub slipped back on.

Thanks guys...today was the 1st chance to get into it...made some good progress with just 409 and window cleaner. I use fabreze all the time ( cause I have 2 dogs ) I'm just amazed at the conditon of this garaged car...everything is there and just like new...even the fussy strip on the windows...just like new. Matting under the carpet perfect ( but smelly )...not even a rust bubble on the floor.

In a recently aquired 72-280...that had been garaged for 20 years !!!!!......I have a severe mildew odor and residue on all of the interior. Seats will probably be removed and replaced...but carpet and interior vinyl is in great shape...just smells. Any tips for cleaning/deodorizing would be appreciated.

I just aquired a 72-240 that has been garaged for 20 yrs ! Great body/chassie condition..no rust, all stock, all there. However, the right rear wheel will not turn. I disconnected the E brake cable, and attempted to remove the drum. No luck. Severe attempts to remove the drum, still no budge. Left side rear wheel turns OK. So, is it really a stuck brake issue in the drum or possible half shaft/diffy or wheel bearing stuck ?? I even put a 6 foot bar across 2 studs for leverage and still no movement. :disappoin

I've been battling a smoking exhaust during decelertation mode on my 75-280 since aquiring it last year. Have rebuilt engine and have concluded that its not oil smoke ,at least not anymore. Cracked rings and head rebuild has eliminated all oil consumption, and engine runs great. However, still blowing smoke on decel mode, throttle closed conditions. Thus, due to black soot, and eye burning odor, must be too rich. #4 plug is more black fouled than others, so that injector may be stuck open....and looking at AFM, the PO has apparently been fiddlin with the idle bypass F/A mixture screw, cause when I opened it slightly CCW, the decel smoke lessened.Has new engine temp sensor. How much can I open it ( to add air ) during decel mode to compensate till I get all injectors rebuilt ( durning winter downtime ) . don't have a O2 meter. Have the info on adjusting the basic componants of AFM, but they are silent on idle bypass , other than to say its factory set.

The fuel injectors are paired with a resistor banks, 1-4 go to one pack of resistors, and 5 & 6 operate off the other one. These are silver units located behind the windshield washer bottle. Check harness for loose connection there. Running on only some of the injectors surely will be rough. Our club "tech guy" recommends sending injectors to www:witchhunter.com and address to Gordon .

I just removed the cover of the ECU on my 75-280 Cali model, and there are 2 white wires..with bullet connectors...coming out of the wiring harness, at the 35 prong connector. They are not connected to anything, and by looking at the FSM wiring diagram, I see them listed as #11 Control Unit, and #26 checking terminal. Does anyone on this forum know their function ? I can't seem to see any mention of using them in the FSM nor the 75-76 EFI manual. Some Datsun dealer dianostics ?? Just curious....and yes they seem factory original to the harness.

Well I thought I had posted this topic before, but it must have been over at another Z forum....we tend to wander I'm now 49...a bachelor with 2 golden retreivers and live in beautiful White Mountains of New Hampshire. I spent 20+ years managing and operating water and wastewater systems for a few Towns and Cities in New England, but have grown tired of the politics and back stabbing that goes along with it! So now my view on life is...take it a little bit easier...work enough to live a good life...and enjoy ones interests. So now I read electric meters about 25 hrs/week ( primary job for benefits) and have a couple of part time...make your own hrs type jobs... which pays for lots of new Z parts ! :cheeky: That interest is certainly now, Z cars. I got my 75-280 out of California last year, and have enjoyed restoring it and the new friends at the Z car clubs and online. Z-On ...

Being a Geico member since 1989, and having NO bad experiences with them, I'm shocked !!! Even a year or so ago, when I first purchased my Z, they were very helpful and advised me to go to a collector car insurance co for a better rate! But I did not have the car yet, so insured it on my Geico policy, thus giving me the 3 car discount. Now, once I had the Z, went to Hagerty for it, and advised Geico that I only want the 2 existing vehicles on the policy....no problem, they dropped the Z and the 2 remaining ones stayed on, at the 3 car rate. They said OK !!! I'll stick with Geico forever....I even have comprehensive coverage at NO Deductable...2 vehicles at less that 700/yr. Z-On little Geico lizard !!

Removed them so the paint job would be better ( less masking,etc ) Put them back on cause I don't dislike the looks..and they were a normal dealer accessory in the mid 70's, so to remain "true to the period". Also, they were in great shape...chrome tips and vinyl inserts just like new.

Am attempting to replace the rear hatch rubber seal, with a replacement from Victoria/British . Have figured out how it attaches, but the top portion that is like near the hinges is troublesome. Does the plastic interior trim pieces need to be removed, so the lower rubber lip of the new seal can be positioned under the plastic interior trim?? Is it necessary, or can that portion of the seal be trimmed? BTW - Also installed the drivers door weatherstrip from V/B , it installed OK, looks OK , but is too thick, which requires the door to be slammed to latch :disappoin 75-280,Tokico, Monza,"pushed in bumper",78 5-spd

I just had my 75 repainted, and removed and replaced the ding strips myself. Easy to do...drill out the old rivets and pop-rivet them back on afta. Be carefull when reattaching strips, so as not to scratch paint Did that on first rivet...when gun popped off ! 26thZ-- my Z looks like your color...what paint code ? Mine is 303 . Emerald Green

The black plastic center console on my 75-280 has numerous skuff marks, predominatly on the passengers side. Does anyone have a prefered method to remove them ?

Got my engine stand (750 lb ) at discount tool store.$34.00, but sure its from China ! Got nice used professional 1000LB hoist from local auto mechanic, for $50, who just upgraded to 3000 lb hoist to lift them 454CI big block babys. So $84.00 total !!!

Had my L28 on a 750 engine stand much of last Winter, and felt like it was "sagging" 'bout 2 months in.... so braced front of engine block with 2 x 4 Just in Case !!! Don't want it snapping off the stand and hitting the floor.. or my toes !! 1000lb engine lift is fine for both engine and tranny. Good luck with project.