cbrunberg

Sand the roof and or use a center punch to check for soft or thin spots.If it runs all the way across you may have to replace the entire roof. It's not too tough of a job. You only have to cut and weld across the "A" and "C" pillars where it's easy to blend in. The welds are short so there is less warpage. Just take good measurements and do it the same on both parts (the one being removed and the one being installed) you may be able to cut the spot welds on the "C" pillar at the factory joint. I helped a friend do his beemer and it turned out good. It's much easier than a quarter panel. Good luck Carl ps you might want to look into an electric anti corrosion device. I can't remember the brand. Maybe someone else does.

Hey Craig, I just looked in my book. It says once you've removed the bearing retainer nut, that's the big one on the differential side of the stub axle. It should be pulled with a flange adapter and a slide hammer. If the slide hammer isn't available use a hammer and a soft drift punch (I use an old brass king pin) from the inside (diff. side). It sounds like yours is just real tight. If you want I can scan and e-mail the pages from the book. Good luck Carl

Hi Guys' Here's my $.02 It could be all the above, low or improper fluid, worn clutch, misadjustment... Also it could be in the shifter itself. I worked in a tranny shop for years we were a whosale builder and didn't work on the cars much and I was a machinist welder, so I can only say start cheap and work your way towards an overhaul. As far as finding reverse difficult to engage that could also be fluid being low or wrong or old, a worn clutch, or a worn gear. If it doesn't want to go in also try pushing the clutch in and out with the shifter in neutral then try reverse again. This works in big truck that have really heavy gears and no 1st or reverse synchros. Carl

I've heard good things about this changeover. I wanted to do it to my 260 years ago but smog regs. wouldn't let me. New ones are available from Arizona Z on the links page. www.arizonazcars.com/manifold.html Carl

Hey Alan, the wheels in your picture are 5 lug. Your profile says you have a 260z which is a 4 lug car. Did you change the hubs and stub axles or did I miss something? Carl

hey Tom what kind of body kit are you talking about and why? Do you mean flares and spoilers? Ground effects? Farrari, Cobra...? Is it to replace a bad body or just for a new look? There are I belive lots of replacement body parts available at reasonable prices, it's just a lot of work to apply them. Unless that's what your good at. Carl

Thanks peterc I'm a welder by trade, if the price is too steep I might try your remedy.:classic: Carl

Hey I need a 73 240 left window regulator and does anyone know if it's easy to r & r?

I don't know if you what new or used but you can go to www.panasport.com for new ones.

The previous posts are right. Just to add my $.02. Check the floor pans for rust (from under the car). It can be fixed but it's tough to get at without a rack. Also my first Z was a 260 and was tough to get smogged here in California. For the cost of rebuilding the carbs I could have got a smog exzempt 240. Also some of the interior parts were missing and were very hard to find. So to echo previous advice; buy the most complete car you can afford. Make repairs in areas you feel confident in. Carl