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As I indicated earlier, I took my carbs off and have been going through the linkage bits to ensure everything is working properly. Besides discovering that my carb heat tube was completely plugged I found that the Nylon bushings of the bell crank were super snug on the support shaft. I had to pry the bottom one off, its like they shrunk down over the years. I ordered some new ones from MS and they turn like butter.

Ah I see, I didn't know they were solid, that makes a big difference! Yeah I hear ya, with all of the fuel entering and leaving and the car going up hill/down hill over bumps, idling, accelerating, banking, etc. it's a wonder a float system works at all !

It's the sealant that worries me in a long time gas environment.

Not sure how one would bond a weight to the plastic float in that environment, but its worth thinking about. I like the redrilling idea, but I don't think the "towers" would need trimming down unless they interfere with the movement of the float.

Yeah perhaps, but the new valves behave just like the old ones I took out. I couldn't get the long legged cap dialed in with the old tall valve body either. I just find it interesting that to get the correct gas level in the glass bowl required that the black float be nearly touching the inside of the cap. If I were to use the static 12mm, 16mm inverted lid method I'm sure that there would be insufficient gas in the bowl during acceleration (stumbling). Those numbers might work if the needles were solid and not internally spring loaded. IMHO, the spring loaded 3 part needles are just not designed for an inverted static setting. Does anyone know if the original needles were spring loaded, or were they solid ?