240Z240Z240Z

My car tends to buck and pop when I try and start it. In the morning I pull the choke on full, turn the engine over and when it finally fires it sound like it's only running on one carb, then the other one kicks in and the RPMs jump so I bring it down with the choke and the thing flutters and dies. This happens a few times until its able to idle with the choke on. Generally, at start up it's either over rev'ing, or stumbling until it gets going well enough to keep it running high RPMs with lots of choke. Everything is in good operating condition, I just suspect something is out of adjustment, or needs upgrading. I just installed a Pertronix unit and that doesn't seem to have any affect on helping it start any easier. I have to wonder if the fuel in my float bowls is too low, or if my mechanical fuel pump is not delivering enough fuel. Whatever the case, something seems out of whack. Any ideas ?

Thats what I bought, it should be here this week! I started out needing some new tires and wheels, got those installed then ordered a pertronix and the 89-300 exhaust. Started it yesterday and it took a piddle in the driveway! Crap, now I have to replace the water pump.

That's what I discovered this morning. They'ed sell more if they did, but hey, it's their business. I ordered the whole thing and plan to just put the pipe away for now. Thanks all.

Well, I found what I wanted on the Black Dragon site, it part number 89-300 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.asp?page=67 Really all I want is the tip and Pace Setter won't sell it seperately, but they did say that it's part number 812222. The whole system is $300 including shipping, and that seems extreme when all I need is the tip. I've scoured the net and I can't seem to find anyone that even sells the complete 240Z kit other than BD. Anyone have any ideas where I can buy just the tip ?

Hi again, Thanks for the help guys, I'll check out the Monza and Pacesetter exhaust systems and see if anything looks good. I do like the classic over/under Ansa tip look, you'd think there would be knock offs of those readily available, but most anything I've found has the tip angle cut so the pipes would need to be side by side and not over/under. Anyhoo, I'll keep looking and let ya'll know what I settle on. 78Datsun280Z, yup we're crusin' the same streets. I'll keep and eye open for ya !

I'd like to replace the stock muffler with a over/under twin tip similar to the old Ansa design. Does anyone carry such a thing anymore ? If so, who ? If not, what other popular options are there ? I'd like a more aggressive sound and a better looking tip than the stock setup. I'd also need to know what diameter the pipe leading into the stock muffler is so I can ensure I have the correct slip on tip. Thanks for any help!

I found a guy near me that has a set of the polished rims I want with caps and lugs for $200, so I'm getting them ASAP! I talked to my local Discount Tire guy and he has Michelin Destiny's for $72, they have a good user rating and should do well for my application. Most all of the 195 70 14" are all season now, which will be OK. Thanks all!

What size do you suggest for the 14"X6" rims ? It's a fair weather car and I don't push it very hard so general performance summer tires are OK.

Be careful, some of those lugs in the picture have flat tops not domes, and many others are rusted ! Look at the ones in the lower left hand corner you can clearly see the flat top. If I were you I'd buy new, you'll be much happier with them. Now if there were some way to prevent them from getting messed up by the lug wrench, anyone know of some trick to prevent maring them ?

OK I found a nice polished set on CL and intend to buy them this weekend. My next question is what make/model/size tires would be a good selection ? They only need to be summer tires and I would like them to be general performance tires that don't cost more than around $100 each. The tires I have now are 60 series and they don't fill the wheel wells very well and they cause my speedo to be off, so this time I'd like something closer in diameter to the originals but obviously wider with a nice perfomance look. I typically get my tires at Discount, any suggestions guys ?

Hi all, I'm wondering if a set of stock 81-83 280ZX, 6 spoke, starfish style wheels will fit on a 240Z without issues ? Has anyone done this ?

Hmmm, for some reason I thought the buckets were fiberglass ??

Thanks for the response. The linkage is all original and has never been apart.

SU's have throttle plates too. If the problem is associated with the linkage at the firewall, then why does it make a difference if the engine is running or not? I suspect that independent of the linkage, the carbs are harder to open when running and that's the crux of the problem.

My 72 has a problem with a sticky throttle pedal, I searched the forms and coundn't find any threads concerning this issue, so I'm asking the group. Problem : If I press down on the throttle with the engine off, no problem, it's smooth as silk. If I press down on the throttle with the engine running, it take a bunch of effort and then it lets go. This makes it hard to take off from a start without feathering the clutch a bunch. It almost seems as if the vacuum on the back side of the throttle plates is holding them closed. I tried some weaker throttle return springs and they work better, but then it doesn't always return to idle without blipping it. I've checked the linkage, and lubed everything and no change. It's been this way since I've owned it (25 years) and I'm not sure if it's just mine, or if everyone has this problem to some degree. Thoughts ?

Thanks for the pict's, I'll take a look. I'll have to get back to the group when I have more time. Right now I'm in the middle of a bathroom remo and need to get it completed before I can continue on the Z. Standby.....

I know that filter well, it was completely clogged and collasped on my E-Type. Is there a way to trick the fuel pump into running continuously when the key is turned on ? That way I could run the line to the filter under the hood into a bucket and see if I'm getting a good flow. The car seems to only Rev to about 3500rpm at idle.

Thanks for the responses, I've checked the obvious stuff like rodents in the intake, plugs, cap, fuel filter, etc. It "ran when parked" and wasn't driven because a new car was purchased. It's been parked in a heated garage so I doubt it's corrosion on the connections, but I haven't ruled it out. I'm wasn't aware of the fuel filter near the tank so I'll look into that. I drove it around the block a fews days ago and it wouldn't go over 40mph. It didn't cough, sputter, or stall, it just wouldn't go any faster. That sounds like a plugged Cat, but that's not easy to test. I'll try a few more things and let everyone know if I get it sorted out.

Hopefully someone here knows about ZX's too. My father inlaw gave my daughter his 82 ZX and it hadn't been started in awhile. Turn's out it's been "quite" a while and the gas was awful. We put some new gas in with the old and started it by pouring a little gas into the intake. It ran so bad that we drained the tank, purged the fuel system replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, and fuel filter and tried again. Even with new gas in the tank and fuel rail it won't start on it's own, and if you get it to run it runs rough. I'm guessing that I should check the cold start valve, but even if that has a problem I can fix it doesn't explain why it runs so bad when it's primed and started. Is there something that could have happened as a result of running the bad gas through it ? Maybe it messed up the O2 sensor, or the Cat ? Thanks for any help guys!

The resistance only occurs when the engine is running, so the linkage must be laid out in such a way (lever arm) that the a small amount of resistance at the throttle plates equals a lot of force at the pedal. I'll take a closer. Thanks for the response.

I've had a problem with my car for a long time and am wondering if this is typical of the car, or unique to mine. When I press on the go pedal there's considerable resistance then it breaks loose and the car lurches forward. It's hard to make a smooth take off. I checked the linkage and everthing is smooth and free turning with the engine off, then I started the car and the stiffness is there. It's like the vacuum on the throttle plates is causing the resistance. Does anyone know about this problem and how to correct , or minimize it ? Thanks for any help.

My 72 240Z has the original muffler and resonator and the muffler chrome is getting a little rusty and so I'd like to replace it with something that looks and sounds better. I was originally thinking of using a Monza tip, but apparently they don't make them anymore. I don't really want to replace the whole system just the muffler at this time. What can I put in place of the stock muffler that will look nice and sound lower and more throaty ?

Correction, I just was told by Courtesy Nissan that the old style gear shift knob I ordered from them is no longer available. So if anyone has a newer looking blond wood gear shift knob with the black top and the white shift pattern they're willing to sell, let me know......

Well, I didn't say it was going to be easy. Perhaps if we dropped the prices and broke it into groups like interior, engine, suspension, and etc. it would be more manageable. It doesn't need to be 100% accurate, or 100% current to be worth utilizing, however, it would need to be maintained as a work in progress. Here's some examples off the top of my head : I found that Courtesy Nissan has the exact replacement shift knob (blond wood, black top) I needed for my 72, ($49.95) but I spent a large number of hours looking for the exact one, and no one else had it to the best of my knowledge. I found that Trico makes a replacement washer pump for the early Z's that they don't even know they stock (p/n 11-601). I've looked all over for red interior vinyl for my shock towers, but that it's only available as a complete kit through one source so far. There's one place that carries lots of rubber replacement parts, another carries tons of emblems. I want to be able to pass this information along to the group in a way that is easy to sort through and will help others short cut their Z refreshing endeavor's. The less time we spend researching this stuff the more time we can spend driving our beauties....

I would find it very helpful if someone (who had lots of time on their hands) would put together a list of Z parts that we are at one time or another are in need of, and what the part status is and where to find them. For example if I was looking for a horn button for a 1972 Z, the list might indicate that Nissan no longer makes the part and there is no known stock on hand. Check used part sources. Or if I was looking for a new front emblem the list might indicate the price and part number of the part through Nissan, or to check the following after market sources.... Ideally, this list would be held and updated on this web site and everyone would be able to add to it as items are idenified and sourced. I think it would save us and anyone new to the Z world a lot of time in searching the web trying to track down common replacement parts.