Killain

What is the AAR ? I'm not use to that part ? The Air Regulator Valve just bolts to the intake manifold ?

Thank you both, I'm getting the feeling I have a 'Vacuum Leak' and it is just somewhere I haven't been able to either slow the engine down so I can check for a visible or audible vacuum leak, once it's fully warmed up is seems Ok, but . . .

I know this sounds stupid, but is it possible I have the ARV plugged in backwards ?

Ok Great, on page EF-24 it talks about the Thermotime switch. I never used a multimeter, so I got one and I'm teaching myself about how to use it. I will pull the Air regulator Valve connector and see if 1. it's getting any power and then see if I can measure the voltage. The last big repair job I did was try to repair my marriage, of course she been gone for the last 14 years, so I guess that wasn't very good fix ?

So despite correcting for no cold idle operation, the valve isn't getting correct or any voltage ? Is that circuit protected by a fuse or fuse-able link ? Thank you,

ah, No I found a rebuilt 'Air Regulator Valve' Which did correct the cold idle engine operation. Before the new Valve, the engine wouldn't idle enough to keep running when the engine was cold and it would stall. But with the new valve it idles very high 1500 rpm's but now it doesn't come down for over a half an hour. Now the Air Regulator Valve isn't adjustable so what you get is all there is ?

Continuing along my Fuel Injection journey, I had a problem with my cold idle being so low the engine would stall out. So after reading my FSM, and help from here, I deducted it was the Air Regulator Valve, I was able to find one and that did indeed, raise the cold idle engine speed, but now the 1500 cold idle rpms stay high and only after 20 minutes running does it drop to 1000 rpm's and even then I have to stop and raise the hood to get to the idle screw and lower the idle speed down to 800 rpm's. Now I don't see what else would keep the speed at high idle other than perhaps the coolant temperature sender being bad, I am pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks, but the engine didn't seem to have a vacuum leak before I installed the new Ari regulator Valve. But the gauge on the dash doesn't off and it reads normal ? So other than the AGV and or the temp sensor relaying faulty reading to the ECM, what am I missing here ?

Yeah, well I have a Tennessee Hardtop in the driveway, Think I could find a Oklahoma Credit card in it ?

Well I have looked through the manual, the factory service manual, it doesn't say you need to remove the tank, but it also says the fuel gauge sending unit is on the front of the tank, and the sending unit I got from Zcardepot will work, but you only need to use the yellow and black wires which I assume means you don't use the fuel waring unit ? a picture of my sending unit is here : and the one that was or went in from the factory is here: and a layout of the tank. But never the less, I need to empty the tank.

Well I posted earlier this month about my gas tank woes, and the shop who put the new fuel pump in said that my fears of having a bunch of dirt and water in the bottom of the tank, might not be so, Howie said if the car was parked, for whatever amount of time, Had real gasoline in the tank when parked it might have not be such a mess after 13 years ? but I also asked for them to see if the drain plug on the bottom of the tank to see if it would break loose, ( it did ) which makes me think that water hadn't been at the bottom of the tank ( I was thinking if the drain plug had a lot of rust, it might be frozen in place ) But it broke loose so maybe that a good sign ? But I need to change the dash gauge sending unit, and of course, they too are in short supply so I have one from Zcardepot and it is a little different and needs some of the connections changed to make it work. My question is do I need to drop the tank to change the sending unit ? BTW : the new Carter Fuel pump fit in the original mount and is really silent now, so I guess the old pump was very noisy must of meant it was getting ready to die ? Thank you,

Well I think I misspoke, or you read it a different way, but the cost of oil is grown in many ways, The price of a barrel of oil in 2020 was $42.00, now it is $140.00, Russia has very little to do with it and we only buy 3% of their oil on the market. So one thing I think is VERY important is as Av8ferg stated is the price is dependent on a 'globalized Market'. The oil we get is sort of oil that is on the market. Oil tankers are filled and once filled they sit off shore waiting till that load is sold, once they ( the ships crew ) only once sold does the ship have permission and a destination to which the oil goes. We here are just as dependent as any other country as to what price we pay for that oil, BUT this country is very, very different than virtually every other country in so much as this country was never meant for high oil prices. 5.00 a gallon gasoline was NEVER thought a possibility, back in the 20's they threw this stuff away, it had no market, but Henry Ford changed that. We're too strung out across the country, we're not like almost all of Europe with many many little villages, if you live in Texas you could very well drive 30 miles or more just to buy food and other necessities. And I no longer belong to any Political party, but the 45 president did little for anyone other than the one he saw each time he looked in a mirror. But number 46 decided to make electric cars a BIG issue, Well if every time you turn on the telly you hard about the great EV going out, Really ? EV's today account for 3% of sales. Now the guys who run refineries hear this and they look at all the up and coming costs to run their plants and they say "Hell No" when you make statements like 46 did, that message goes a long way, like all though the middle east who currently have about 1 product to sell and you just told them their out of business in a few years. ( That's kinda the reason they don't take calls from 46. ) Maybe in the future we get a better idea of how to use carbon capture equipment better ( And now would be a really great time unleashing the Corporates Titans on building this type of equipment and a lot of it. ) but oil is vital NOW I don't know about the future, but we're not living in the future we're living Now June 2022 ! When I started driving gas cost 31.9 a gallon, but I'm not driving in 1965 anymore, I have to live here and now, and if anybody knows anything about big oil gone wrong, It the people on our gulf states. The damage done by the oil rig from hell created is truly unknown other that the fish and seafood from the gulf will continue to smell like oil for the next 1000 years and that is being very very conservative. And just as a parting opinion, mine. . . only we, in this country haven't had someone at 1600 Pennsylvania avenue since 1981 who gave a good goddamn . Both political parties should be ashamed of what they have done to this country. Political service no longer means anything other than "How rich can I legally get while in office" I serve in Vietnam and my father before me served in WW2, when was the last time we had someone to look up to ? And our passion is something the Japanese manufactured and 90% better than anything rolled out of Detroit. Many people I know stopped looking at domestic cars to own 20 years ago, who's fault is that, you got it Detroit's ! The president releasing 1.000.000 barrels of crude from the strategic reserves does next to nothing And they not giving it away, they sell it at the current rate $140.00 a barrel, the only way to make an impact on gasoline prices they would need both a large scale refining Plant/ Plants, a fleet of tractor trailer tank trucks ( Which would need legal paperwork to cross state lines and contacts with a hell of a lot of station selling gasoline, which do not exist as most all service stations are already under contract to sell only a specific companies gasoline. To do this would take the one thing we don't have any most likely will never have and cooperation from the 2 political parties, and your up to your own guess when that will happen, most likely a 1000 years from now. But with time I think gas prices will come down a little, we only have 2/3 of the refining capacity we had 20 years ago. I live out side Philadelphia PA, twenty years ago there were 12 reining plants here, we have 3 now ! and one of them only produces JP-4 aviation fuel. After the start 46 has had, nobody in their right mind would be willing to invest any money in any new refining plants, why should they ? it 's share holders money they have to be concerned about. I would be surprised to see anything less than $3.95.9 gasoline in the next 5 years. of course it's supply and demand the old basics ? but I've waste your time enough now.

There's an old saying up in coal mining country, "Buy new, wear out, make due, or do without " !

Is there any way to find original part number and cross reference of different part numbers ? I need to find a fuel pump relay and you can go to Ebay, but there's no way to determine whether the sellers part number and or part is the real part you need ?

There is only a handful of Z car suppliers, and they have as best as possible, many parts that are vehicle specific. Summit and jegs are no better than RockAuto, however even they can't beat RockAuto prices and of course, RockAuto ships in many different ways and can dictate their carriers and to a large extent, shipping prices. But the supply of Z car parts are getting thin anymore and if one of the Z car suppliers has what you need, you just have to bite the bullet and buy from them, just like the price of a gallon of gasoline, the market dictates the price. Whether a gallon of gas costs $5 a gallon or $10 a gallon, it make no difference, you need it and they have it ?

Yes, these are great pictures, I just spoke to the shop doing some of the work, and they said they wouldn't put the rockauto fuel pump on it, it has the original or maybe a factory replacement, but my problem was the hoses ( and they weren't FI hoses, had burst and the pump shut off. So they put new fuel injection hoses on it and put the new filter before the pump, ( and when I told about my fears of a dirty tank, and that the car sat for 13-14 years not used, he said well look, maybe it was stored with real gasoline and if that is the case, the build up of junk on the bottom of the tank might not exist, or at least not to the point of clogging lines or anything, ( the in-line filter they took off did not have any dirt or junk in it? ) Howie also said about my plan to drain the tank and let it dry out, He said don't do that. If you want to see what is on the bottom of the tank, wait till fuel is low, drain the tank, get the borescope and take a look in the tank from the drain plug location, if you don't see any build up of dirt of other junk, put the plug in with some Pematex thread sealant and then refill the tank. You stand to great of a chance of rust if you leave the tank open to the atmosphere which could cause more problems than just a little dirt ? I said to him, the problem with this classic car is you can't have it towed and left sitting at his shop for too long as it can and will get vandalized. Other than the fuel system, I'm trying to get the A/C converted to R-134, something of a formable task here as I live in a Service Desert around here ????? Thank you for all your help.

Hi all, would anyone have a picture of the inside of a 280Z fuel tank ? I am in the need to drain my fuel tank, and once drained I planned on removing both the gas cap and the drain plug and leave them both out till the inside of the tank is dry. I have a borescope and once dry I can get a better look inside the tank to see what kind of condition the inside of my 47 year old fuel tank is, is this a good or bad idea ? I never had to deal with a either dirty or contaminated fuel tank, and besides getting the 17 gallons of fuel out, then I need to come up with a strategy on how to remove it while preserving the hoses, nothing on this Z is easily located or priced. I'm changing the fuel pump and the previous owner put a fuel filter inline just before the pump, ( which I reinstalling or a new one) to keep from sucking up dirt into the pump. I haven't found any signs or contamination yet, but . . . .

great, thank you, I'm trying to chase down some of the quirks in the FI and I was able to fix the loopy idle with a rebuilt 'Air Regulator Valve' and now I'm seeing any issues with the intake charge. I'll take mine apart and see if it needs the points cleaned.

Seems like every time I go looking for something, it hasn't been manufactured in eons, I was able to sort out a part# A22-602-421, but I'm only finding used, and my luck with used electrical parts has been too great ! Anyone know what this little Nissan orphan might be living ?

Yeah their pretty nice, and for that price they should be, of course they , like all the others are " Out Of Stock " ?🤥

Yeah, and after exhausting every conceivable idea of why your not getting any fuel to the carbs, and your just wiped and tired, you'd think "Hay, I wonder if that new sealed tank might be a problem ?????? but by now your so tired you just want to go somewhere, anywhere. This is a significant job I only want to do ONCE !!!! But thank you for your insight.

Yeah, I'd hate to burn the garage down for one stupid mistake. I just don't get too comfortable dealing with this big a fire hazard, but thank you, I bought one 5 gallon plastic gasoline jug and I'll have to see if I can syphon out the first 57 gallons first, then drain the rest into a big drain pan, which I also got from Amazon.

Yes it does, all 17 gallons won't fit in a 3 gallon drain pan ?

Yeah Sightunseen, this is one job, if you look at the chemicals, time and labor involved, is much better 'For Me' to have done off site, there is a old shop about a 120 miles from here who can do the work, have been in business since the 40's and I think even with the travel, is worth the effort. My problem presently is how do I safely and effectively drain the tank, it full right now. But I don't know if running the engine and new fuel pump with it suck up some dirt and debris, or if i should run it to burn off 5-8 gallons until I can pump out the remaining fuel into some 5 gallon portable tanks ??? Thank you,

What's the best pathway forward with my 47 year old fuel tank, I don't think it's rusted through, but it isn't clean, so is removing the tank and sending it out to be restored, or just getting a restored tank ? It's like $250.00 to have it rebuilt or $370.00 for a restored tank. I don't know which is the right move here ?

Yeah, there is like 3-4 different Z car suppliers, and you might think the Datsun 280Z is spelled P-o-r-s-c-h-e . . . but maybe it's just me ? ????? But I really thank you for any and all parts info anyone can throw my way !