Dat.240

Yeah that came out perfect !

Nice! That sounds like a pretty flawless resto mod , hold that originality but add some modern touches kudos. I lost the am/fm pegs when I did my retro sound mod but there hardly noticeable.

You might already know this , but there is a set screw in the back that adjust the audible tone . I inadvertently did a hey what does this do [emoji23] and screwed mine up . But once I set it back in it’s rightful place my set seems to work fine .just incase you get lucky and the set screw just needs to be adjusted . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhh gotcha I really appreciate you taking the time to extend your knowledge, I’m always learning with this car and I really enjoy it! Really cool stuff

Wow what a wealth of information thanks for sharing that love reading through that stuff , I’ve been doing as much research as I can and that sure has a lot ! I’m trying to get keys that at least look original to the untrained eye , for my doors DA23 and ignition seems to be DA20. I’m a particular person and they aren’t serious problems , so appreciate all the insight that much more . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh good idea I should have picked up on that , this is a shot with the cut face pointing down . I believe this is what you meant . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks so much man your the best, I was looking to get another key made . Wasn’t in the system at the box stores and the local hardware store just needed the right blank and they said they could cut anything. Saw a custom key blank online that’s what sparked my interest. And yes you are right 3 keys is probably overkill [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wondering if any folks knew the codes associated with the blanks for this common, not original ignition switch replacement . Keys are labeled car show with a unique identifier C23425? I noticed there are a lot of custom key blanks for the originals, but I wasn’t able to dig up if these are made for a bluebird or a 510 . ( note there is no door alarm functionality in this unit ). Any help is appreciated !

I was contemplating getting Roadrunner horns , they seem like the same shape/style to just the color might be rough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What a good idea , you ever get some working models please do share , if you don’t mind of course . I was thinking of a way to open up the originals I have for fitment with a dremel, but I haven’t built up the courage quite yet. Also have a number of other projects before I take a crack at that one . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an update , pushed the speaker behind the bracket as it should be a little snug with the vapor hoses but everything clips in . Just to confirm fitment the center does not fit perfectly, but it’s hardly noticeable. If I care enough I’ll sand it down till it sits flush down the road.

Yeah that came out awesome , what size tip did you end up using ? Just want to make sure I buy the right size for the job . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that turned out awesome , I gotta get on that ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect appreciate the help @jfa.series1

modeled up some brackets based off the originals , I adjusted to match 5.25 speakers. My brother was able to print them fine , passenger and drivers. Models attached below, note the model units was set incorrectly so they need to be scaled from 100% to 2540% to adjust mm to inches. Bracket.7z

Would love to see how it turns out if you pull the trigger ! I just took @UM240 idea retro sound with original faceplate , was able to keep the original knobs with a little Teflon tape and a makeshift bracket to keep the antenna switch . Has anyone touched up the silver/chrome on the trim ? That’s my next project

Right that makes a lot more sense, will add that on to my list ,appreciate the insight.

Ahh gotcha so the emissions portions was removed , hence the jumper hose ? Apreciate the help you guys rock .

Combing through my laundry list of odds and ends, noticed my carb linkage has a floating plate looks like a mod for sure, was just wondering if this is a problem ? I have a lot to learn and I appreciate any and all input !

Appreciate the help, I’ll add the grommet to the laundry list . First season with the car doing every little thing I can to get it show ready !

Steve thank you so much for the help , your knowledge is priceless !

Wow Steve I really can’t thank you enough, the wires are still tucked in down there. I looked before but certainly missed them. Looking at the correct choke cable grommet there should only be 2 wires coming out and the extras I have shouldn’t be there ? Trying to learn as much as I can , and get it as close to original within reason.

On the laundry list of odds and ends I need to address, one is the reverse lights wiring . Upon my purchase recently there where no wires attached to the switch . I Looked around the forums a bit and seen mentioning the wiring diagram to determine the run, I have the diagram but was hoping anyone may have some pointers on if it comes through the firewall or it’s in the dash? Ironically I see 2 wires pertruding out the firewall could it be that easy ? The year is a 71 month 3 , i certainly will be scouring the forums for knowledge. And apreciate and and all help !