alien-e

The guy at Techno Toy Tuning makes wheel spacers to order, including adapters from 4 bolt to 5 bolt.

Your best, and cheapest source for doorskins is Tabco. Thier products can be sourced from victoria british, but sadly victoria british almost doubles the price. Fortunately, you can order directly from their website here: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/ I ordered a rear wheel arch with lower front quarter section for $54.75, while it's over $95.00 from VB. (Those are US $ by the way). It's smooth, and fits snug over the old panel. I'll be cutting the old panel out sometime next month to replace the damaged wheel arch.

I think I understand. I was planning on on a set of 15 x 6.5 +40 4X100 Nippon Racing F2's (12 pound alloy wheel). So, if I follow the logic, the offest would be +12.06MM with the adaptor. I might consider getting a 7" rim, to fill out the wheel wells with a slightly wider tire. Thanks for the help Victor.

Thougt it would be helpful to add a link to the product I'm talking about. Z to Honda Wheel Adaptors

On a side note, why are they using standard measurements when offset is traditionally in metric? Especially for a Japanese built car. I'm pretty sure these guys are Canadian, and their whole country standardized on the metric system. I'm boggled. :cross-eye

Then my quesiton is, where is the stock mounting point on my 240Z? Is it at zero offset inside the wheel housing, or (+) some milimeters? I'm buying the adapters from Modern Motorsports, but they are very vague about how thick the adapter is. When I asked, I got this response: "The adaptors suitable for wheels ranging from 36 to 40mm offset as described (range of 0.15", not much) are of one geometry only. So if your's fit the recommended offsets and widths you'll be just fine with our typical adaptors. Custom adaptors we can do separately but sounds like you're fine with our typical adaptors." When I pressed the issue they admited that the adapters are 1.1", which converts to 27.94 millimeters. How is this going to fit a 40mm offset rim?

Ah, thanks for the help guys. I suspected the deleted spare tire well would be for the "R" version of the 432. Doesn't make sense to take up the luggage space with a tire for a consumer model. 100 liter tank, eh? Well, I'm not planning on moving the filler neck to the rear, so I suppose I must custom fabricate something for my application. I also plan on moving the spare above deck, or just leaving it out completely.

I'm not sure where I read this, but the big reason the 4 valve per cylinder, 3 Carb, 2 cam setup on the 432 didn't make it to the US was that the BRE team was able to pull similiar HP and Torque numbers from the standard L24 and E31 head in the 240 with slight modifications. My guess is that it didn't make sense to Nissan Japan to put money into production (or sourcing) of so many different engine parts (carbs, intake, head, cams, valves, exhaust, valve covers, etc...). Well, that and the reason that 2ManyZs stated about emissions.

I've seen pictures of the deck in the 432, which has the spare tire well deleted. Does anyone know if there is a different / larger fuel tank than a typical S30 below this flat deck? The reason I ask is, I want to delete the spare tire well from my Z. This will, of course, leave a gap above the part of the fuel tank that thins out to avoid the spare tire well. I realize that even the 432 tank is different, I'm won't be finding any at my local junk yards but, it would be nice to get some pictures.

I just purchaced a rear wheel arch from Tabco to repair the damage that I did to it last month. I tried to do an order by web, but the shipping price didn't come up. So, I called the their order line (800) 782 5226 and ordered directly. It turns out, their prices include shipping! The guy told me that the prices on their website are slightly lower than they should be as they have had some price increases recently. I'll update everyone on the quality of the product when it arrives at my door.

...also, to answer your question, that would be the main bar mounts. The ones welded to the frame.

I hit submit and the little e in the corner just kept spinnin'. It was unintentional.

That's per-shock.

You would have to move the mounts to a lower postion to get the stock 280Z sway bar to fit. If there isn't a mount, you would have to buy some or cut them off of the 280.

You would have to move the mounts to a lower postion to get the stock 280Z sway bar to fit. If there isn't a mount, you would have to buy some or cut them off of the 280.

PUSHER, Where did you get a good deal on Illumina's and how much. The average price I've seen on the internet is around $130.

My 1/73 has the mounts (as all 73's should), but does not have a sway bar. I was under the impression that no 240's came with a rear sway bar stock. I was stripping some parts from a 78' 280Z with an R200 differential and saw the rear sway bar, so I nabbed that too. Unfortunately, there is a minor difference between the two S30's. The mounting points for the 280Z are much lower than the 240. So the sway bar is straight. To use the stock sway bar mounts, the sway bar must have a section in the middle that dips down so it can clear the differential. I think you can find a sway bar that would use the stock mounting points for a 73', but I think it would be better to buy a kit that mounts the bar off of the supports the rear mounting points of the a-arms. Like the one Arizona Z Car has. It's a ground control kit, I think.

What you seem to be explaining could come from a whole host of issues. The first thing would be to ask if your engine is running hot (by the temperature gague), and if the gauge is correct. You might need a new temp. sending unit, or need to knock the rust of the connection to it on the thremostat housing. If you are running hot, it could be low coolant, or a clogged coolant system. If the latter is the case, you can get your engine coolant flushed by a mechanic with high pressure to knock some of build up out the lines. I could also be your radiator, which can be flushed as well. Also, if you are running too rich, your engine temp might be affected as well. Are you able to start the car again when you hear the bubbleing noise. If so, I don't think it's vapor lock. To make sure, though, you could wrap the steel tubes that come around the front of your rocker cover to deliver petrol to your carburetors with a reflective heat shield. This should also keep the fuel cooler in the lines, which is better for detonation. These are some of the issues that I have identified on my own Z, but have not dealt with yet. My temp gague reads 2/3s and my oil pressure drops to zero when I'm at idle. I'm sure it's the sending units for both. But it may be my coolant system. I'm afraid to know the truth, because the truth can be expensive. Hope this helps,

Probably too late to mention now, but you won't have to re-align the hatch if you just take out the screws that attached the hinge to the hatch. You don't have to touch the bolts that attach the hinge to the body of the car.

I've installed 2 5-speed gearboxes so far and have had no issues. Do you know where the gearbox came from?

For 5 speeds out of Z's from 77' up to 79' the ratios are all the same as the 4 speed, so if you like your current shift ratios on the four speed, go with the older transmission. I originally installed a 79' 5-speed in place of my 3 speed automatic. The differential from my automaic is a 3.545 ratio R180. So, my RPMs at 75mph was just a bit over 3100. When I installed an 82' gearbox, the RPMs dropped to 2600. I did lose some punch on the lower end, so I may swap it back until I swap out my motor for an L28.