alien-e

I secretly edited my post and made the spelling corrections before my last post.

One of the websites that sells the 5ways say that the stiffness on the non-adjustable are about like setting 3 on the 5way. I have a buddy that had 5ways on a lowered 240. He says that even on the lowest setting the ride is really stiff. I would really like to know what the bound / rebound numbers are for stock and for the Tokico, KYB, Koni, etc are before I made the choice to change out my stock suspension. I woul love for my Z to handle better, but I doubt I'll be doing any autocrossing, so the car still needs to be street-able. I'm collecting the evidence before I buy. I'll post it on my website when I make my final purchace.

Razor, I don't know what you are talking about. :classic:

Yeah, the same mounting braket was used for the pedals in all S30's (240's 260's 280's). Definately get the pivot pins and return springs. On a side note, I've noticed that, just after 2 years since the installation, my clutch pedal has started to creak. I suggest cleaning the pivot point on the new pedals and load the pin up with grease, so you won't have the same problem in 2 years. It may the ends of the spring where they mount to the pedal frame as well, so I suggest, maybe a rubber sleeve or something. I'll probably work on that little job this weekend.

You will need the clutch pedal and brake pedal from the 280. The reason it looks like it won't fit, is the brake pedal from the automatic is shaped like this [=] and the brake pedal from the manual looks like this []. I was told that I would need a new driveshaft as well, but it turns out that's not true. You can use the one from the automatic. Good luck on the conversion, feel free to ask me more questions.

I evened out the length of the needles and it seemed to do the trick... mostly. It was much closer to balanced at high and low idle than ever before, but it's not quite right. The rear carburetor is still not as strong as the front. I'll try the carb cleaner tomorrow.

A little history: I bought my Z with a 4bbl Holley on it and decided I would do better with SU's, so I bought a pair on e-bay. They were gummed up pretty badly, but I put a lot of effort into them and got them cleaned up. Unfortunately, the needles were stuck in the jet tube (both). Halfway through the build, I got another pile of carburetor parts, that were the same models as the one that I currently have. So, I retrieved the needles from those SU's and finished the re-build. So, I installed the carburetors and they ran ok, but I think that the needles were bent, and the cylinders didn't "clunk", like they were supposed to. The choke on the front carburetor was sticking as well. So, I bought a pair of needles from Ztherapy which allowed the needles to seat properly and the chokes snap back in position as they should. I have the dashpots filled with "air tool oil" (which is 20wt oil) to the proper level. I have adjusted the valve lash, replaced the spark plugs and wires, and set the timing to 10 degrees. I also run a pertronix igniter, so the points aren't an issue. I did a lot of research on the subject and can't find any help in this category. Problem: The front carburetor runs strong, and responds to adjustment of both the idle screw and the mixture nut. In fact, the engine ran pretty smooth at 500 rpm with both idle screws all the way up and the mixture nut set to 1/2 turn from the top. However, when measured with the unisys tool, the two carburetors don't balance. I adjust the RPMs to 750 and try to balance the rear. When the rear is balanced, the RPMs are up to 1000. When I lift the front carburetor to disengage it, the engine dies. When I lift the rear carburetor, it runs strong (on the front 3 cylinders). No amount of adjusting of the mixture nut makes a difference. So with both balanced at 1000 RPMs, and then adjusted up to 1500 to adjust the high RPM balance, the rear carburetor now pulls considerably more air than the front. What should I look for to make this rear carburetor balance?

I bought my rubber one from nissan. It's thick, good quality rubber. I got it from Courtesy Nissan in Richardson Texas when I lived in Dallas. They are a really decent parts supplier. I just bought some more parts from them this morning, in fact. They probably have the NOS (new old stock) vinyl boot, but I imagine it would be quite expensive, so a good one-off will suffice. I just need to know which one looks best. Pictures would help.

I'm in need of a shift boot, since mine was converted from an automatic. I've found 3 suppliers: MSA Banzai Motorworks Datsun Restore Which boot did you end up buying, and what do you think of the quality?

I've been having a lot of trouble recently. My AC fuses keep blowing, as well. I know my elctrics are in bad need of a complete tear out and rebuild. Until then, I'll keep carrying around a box of fuses.