Everything posted by 260Zed
-
Anyone selling a Front Spoiler for Z?
Well I know BBalls (Gavin) had moulds and at least two types of front spoilers available. He was selling them through Alan at the Zed shop but not sure if they are still available. If not, I'm sure you could get some leads from someone at a Brisbane meeting. Wouldn't mind knowing what you find too... Luke
-
Cable released hatch?
hmm, maybe because that would be a little too difficult! Sure it is possible, so is a automatic hydraulic hatch lifter with xmas bells. But prolly a bit difficult too. The only reason I showed this was it is a SIMPLE way to have a remote hatch release. No it's not the best, yes it could be better, but hopefully someone can use the info I've given to improve on it. I'm interested to see a solenoid type release. That would be the best option I'd reckon. Luke
-
A note for you Z drivers
I still find it crazy that you guys don't have to wear a helmet by law! (And seatbelts in a car for that matter too!) :stupid: :stupid: Lucky that your ok, bummer about the bike. What was it? Luke
-
Fan Clearance
I agree, with enough spirited driving (engine movement and chassis flex) Id say that that would make contact. How long have you had it like that?
-
Japanese Q/A sticker?
So, these "sub-standard" panels that have the mystery sticker on them, do we know if they are a random thing? Are they only on the later zs? As in maybe they kept all the sprayed panels to last to fit? Weird. Luke
-
Pic at hatch
Sounds good! I had the cable from a mates wreck so I decided to try it. A solenoid does sound good though.
-
Cable released hatch?
1. If you had a way to "push" the mechanism down rather that pull with the cable then yeah sure. I couldn't think of a way to "easily" do it, but anything is possible. The only reason it has to come out is because the cable will not bend or turn at a great enough angle to stay in the hatch. 2. Don't really know what you mean. The cable does go into the hatch, and only re-emerges at the vinyl panel. But it is early, and mornings aren't good for me :tapemouth Hope it helped. Luke
-
Classic Motorsports Readers Choice Poll
Somehow I don't think they were thinking about the condition of the cars 30 years down the track. It's amazing that you can still (albiet rarely) find first gens with decent original paint etc. The 240z is rubbing shoulders with some pretty esteemed company in that list! Luke
- Bay RH
-
Cut in hatch, at lock
The elongated hole is there because 1. the cable ran be removed from the final position easily. 2. I was a little off on where to have the cable. Pictured is the correct position.
-
Hatch mechanism
-
Hatch to body
Runs down inner lining in hatch. Will have to get a rubber grommet to protect the cable from the drill hole.
-
Pic at hatch
-
Hatch Release Handle
-
Wireing harness tape replacement
I ended up using a loom tubing. 25mm and 12mm. Kinda like spiral hosing but thinner and has a split down the middle. Took me way too long to unwrap the original tape, for me to even consider putting the same kinda stuff back on. I find it MUCH easier to follow a wire or do any work on the loom when I can just pull open the tubing. Rather than unwrap everything. But I understand it wouldn't be for the purists. I would upload pics, but I cant for some reason? Will try later. Luke
-
Do I need a patrol clutch..?
Many moons ago... When I had my zx I replaced the clutch and it was gonna be one of two types (9.25 or 9 inch?) One was gonna be a load more expensive than the other, it ended up being the cheaper of the two. I *THINK* it was 9.25 inch. BUT this was years and years ago so I might be talking crap. Good luck Luke
-
Cable released hatch?
The release is where it would be located normally, to the seat support. I'm sure it was about 3m, ill check when I get pics.
-
Cable released hatch?
Well I just finished it off today. I used a fuel cap cable from a Telstar (Mazda 626 Type) which was about 3m long. It runs up the pillar then into the hatch and around to the lock. The lock is still able to be used as normal, tho I think I'll shave the lock at a later date. Looks pretty good I reckon. The cable is only visible at the lock, A lot of fiddling around to install though. I'll post pics when I can borrow a camera, if anyone is interested. Cheers Luke
-
Free Z parts Brisbane tonight !!
you've got mail
-
Aussie Ebay Z Parts
Interesting, there are a couple of bits on ebay of his that I would have liked to bid on. But I really can't be bothered going through what that guy did to get them . I wonder how it will affect the bidding?
-
Process of elimination - Ignition. Help!
I've had it working with the tach for about a year. But something has givin up in the last week or so, cross-firing and generally crap performance. Module is new, wires are new, plugs are new sooo yeah coil it is. Thanks for the offer, I'm sure they would help. Thanks for the quick reply! Luke
-
Process of elimination - Ignition. Help!
Yeah, that'd be great. I'll use that to get a correct replacement. Bollocks Useless Rant: Sometimes I wonder at these part stores whether you have to actually go and get the part number, get the part off the shelf out the back, check that it's the same, give to customer. Hell, they only need to tell me how to use the till and i'll do it all myself. End of ranting. (Till I ring em tomorrow) Luke
-
Process of elimination - Ignition. Help!
Well, I can't find the 280zx listed in any coil replacement book thingos. I've just been having more of a look and the coil I just got and it's got "Low input" & "High output" that means it's the wrong one huh. Luke
-
Process of elimination - Ignition. Help!
Okay, thought I had my cross-fire problems sorted when I got my new Module. But no :stupid: (at least I have a spare now) Bosch do not have a listing for the 280zx (distributor that I'm using), but they do for the 280C which is the same, i think. Anyway What they've given me is a Bosch GT40R coil. Which states on the side "use gt40 coils to replace all standard coils fitted with ballast resistors" BUT the bosch book had it listed for use with the L28. And as the L28 was only EFI, no ballast resistor. So what do I do here? I can't find any answers anywhere. Luke
-
Aftermarket Ign Module
Well I ended up getting an aftermarket replacement for the original E12-80 module. Exactly the same casing, direct replacement. Can't complain about that! Anyone chasing the same, I got it through Coventry for $99. #IM119 2 Year warranty. Bargain considering the same part was $157 at other places. Hehe think I'll take the zed out this afternoon :devious: Luke