260Zed

Dammit tanny! I was gonna call that guy a prick too! Thats one harsh std.

Seems unusual that I spend much time looking at both of these and I only score 7/10.:sleepy: More scrutiny is required:devious:

If your after the interior winders im "pretty sure" the 1600 (510) use the same, as well as the external handles. "pretty sure" = :stupid: Hope that helps, though there isnt many 510s around the yards either :sleepy: Luke

My apologies for hijacking your thread, but I've got an inductive loop style tacho that is misbehaving in my zed, today I bought a 280zx tacho guts. Now apart from the mechanism that actually pulls the arm around they look totally different to me. The faces are differ as to the position of the arm at whatever rev, so I cant just change the face. No ive got no idea when it comes to electronics,:stupid: but is there anyway I can make this work? Anybody? FWIW I've got the 280zx dizzy and coil, and you can make it work with the original tacho...

Do you mean the strip in the front windscreen gasket? Or just other bits?

Yeah, although most of the ones I have seen that colour that section have been in black. Although the gun metal grey seems like an alright idea. Here is a pic from lance75_280z 's gallery of the rims in question. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5273&password=&sort=7&thecat=998 Luke

I believe the 260z sold in the US only for about 6-8 months in 1974 (?). There was no 2 Litre version available in Oz for the 260z. Not that I see loads of other 260's but all I've seen have had round-tops retrofitted. I'm lucky enough that I havent seen the hitachi carbs in person :classic: .

Thanks for your help guys. I'll pick some vk berlina bits and have a look-see. Ill keep you posted. Luke

yeah i know, solenoid you say...hmmm. That'd still be a PITA to fit id reckon. Don't suppose you know of a vehicle that would've come with that standard? Any other suggestions?

Has anybody seen a cable release mechanism for the rear hatch fitted to the first gen zeds? Also an idea of the difficulty involved, parts used etc? Any help will be appreciated. If so ill be using this to get rid of nasty key locks Luke

Yea, jb weld is sold in Aus. Havent used it myself. But I have seen it. Try your other auto retailers?

The lines were the last thing i did. I used a expanded nitrile rubber pipe insulation. Commonly used round hot water systems. Usually called Armaflex or Superlon. I got mine thru work cheap, but you should be able to pick it up for bout $6-7/mtr. Fire retardant, good resistance to fuels/oils, I'm trying to find it in the right size for the fuel rails, to cover them indervidually, rather than slap a big one over it all.

I had similar probs. Although mine don't seem as bad as datto-zeds, mine would never die, just hesitate. Also wasn't as severe on hot restart. I have electric RX7 fuel pump, recirculating fuel line, etc. I have a non-vented hood and round top SUs. I was experiencing a hesitation only after engine got to working temperature and was a hot day 35C+, and only after car had been at idle (set of lights etc). Fuel pump - didnt fix Ceramic coating - helped but didnt completely solve. Insulated fuel float bowl - helped Insulated rubber fuel line from rail to carb - Huge difference With all these, the problem is gone in normal driving condidtions. (Yeah even in our summer). I'm currently looking at ways to insulate the fuel rail without having it look pig ugly (a la foil wrap etc). I'll post pics of the bay when I get them back. The only visible insulation is the pipe around the fuel line. But looks suprisingly good! :classic: A thing to note is that I do not have a heat-shield of any type! (Only a 6mm closed-cell foam with aluminium foil backed insulation on float bowl.) BTW The coating cost me about $200 AUS. Jet Hot in comparison are about $240 i think inc postage to Vic. Hope this helps mate. Luke