260Zed

I had similar probs. Although mine don't seem as bad as datto-zeds, mine would never die, just hesitate. Also wasn't as severe on hot restart. I have electric RX7 fuel pump, recirculating fuel line, etc. I have a non-vented hood and round top SUs. I was experiencing a hesitation only after engine got to working temperature and was a hot day 35C+, and only after car had been at idle (set of lights etc). Fuel pump - didnt fix Ceramic coating - helped but didnt completely solve. Insulated fuel float bowl - helped Insulated rubber fuel line from rail to carb - Huge difference With all these, the problem is gone in normal driving condidtions. (Yeah even in our summer). I'm currently looking at ways to insulate the fuel rail without having it look pig ugly (a la foil wrap etc). I'll post pics of the bay when I get them back. The only visible insulation is the pipe around the fuel line. But looks suprisingly good! :classic: A thing to note is that I do not have a heat-shield of any type! (Only a 6mm closed-cell foam with aluminium foil backed insulation on float bowl.) BTW The coating cost me about $200 AUS. Jet Hot in comparison are about $240 i think inc postage to Vic. Hope this helps mate. Luke

Got them back finally! (NOTE: Even tho HPC will promise it'll be ready in 5 working days, allow 9):tapemouth . The finish is fantastic in the silver/polished colour. It has made a noticable difference in underhood temperatures, Although in the summer heat I still need to insulate the fuel lines. If I had the time and money I would get the intake done as well. But i dont Just if anybody was wondering...

If the contacts fail again you can pick up those switchy things for about $10. If you have any more probs...

I found my Oz 260Z had 5518 on brake, none on clutch. Also found more of the PO's butchered wiring! :mad:

You would have thought that he would check that his truck would actually drive straight before trying it. :dead: Natural Selection! Nature has its way of culling the stupid, and whats better is that we get to watch!

Anybody had any experience with solex locks? They are a tubular/cylinder type lock. Similar to the club lock thingies. I'm interested because of thier almost immune to the "screwdriver" attack. Any thoughts? http://www.noelsautoparts.com.au/pics/Nice%20Products/solex_m_big.jpg

Gee whiz! The "race-prepped" 280z doesn't even have a radio! Must be to offset the added crap on the outside. I am amazed that at least one person has bid, how sad...

Like many, the rubber strip on my bumper bars are well and truely trashed, the two that remain in place. I remember hearing that one of our aussie fords used the same or very similar strip that fits on our bumpers. :cheeky: Problem is I can't remember what year or model it was! Anybody know and care to shed some light? Cheers

I would say that your prolly thinking of the 65mm Ford XF Falcon. Don't know what sort of modifications would need to be done, but it's do-able. So I would say you'll need to hunt for it here, in OZ. Good luck. Have a look at http://www.240z.id.au/ He's used it. Grrrr:devious:

At the moment Ive got the mechanical pump still in the line, but looking to get rid of it cleanly, the blanking plate as mentioned, can I get that off a fuel injected L-series engine? (BTW I got the rx7 pump and bracket for a steal, $45 and it looked new, couldnt believe my luck! Was difficult to find tho...) Cheers

I've got a 75 and mine only came with the mechanical pump. Ive had probs with vapourlock, but since changed to an rx7 fuel pump, it helped fix the problem, but not completely. So I'm getting the extractors ceramic coated and probably make up a heat shield too. Ill tell ya my results.

Does anyone know of a product that I can coat polished parts of the engine bay with? eg Intake, carb tops etc. It'll obviously need to withstand the underbonnet heat without any discolouration or flaking etc? I heard somewhere about a polyurethane based product but havent heard anymore about it. Anyone got any ideas/experiences? Cheers

St Stephen, that really sucks. I agree, go on with life as if it were just another day. You never find the good ones by looking, they just sorta find you. But yeah working together really wouldnt help, and seeing the progress of the new relationship would hurt, bad. Good luck mate

looks great all the way....till the rear, then it goes all wrong. Still great work though. Is that price USD?

grnskyline, ive been looking at mx5 seats too, found a pair for $350 but still weighing them up on my to-do list...

Ive run standard unleaded and primium occasionally (bout every fourth tank) and havent experienced any problems/pinging. Thats a e88 head with round tops and a mild cam. I've also heard that lead replacement isnt that great, for the reasons stated above. Also be wary of independant suppliers and the quality of fuel they provide. They can import fuel from SE asia and (believe it or not) Kazakhstan, which both provide a lower quality fuel than our traditional suppliers. Maybe a saving a few cents at the pump mite equate to a lot more money in solving engine trouble down the track! :dead:

Guess that settles it. Prolly do the intake as well then... money money money. Ill tell ya what i think of it.

Ive seen pics of a few that have two stripes running up the middle, they look alright, but there was one i saw a pic of, had the stripe starting at the bonnet bulge, looked awesome! Cant for the life of me find the link tho. AHA! http://www.zcar.com/month/1999/02/ :tapemouth

Ive decided to get my headers ceramic coated. Both Jet-hot and HPC cost about the same. At the moment There is a lot of heat generated in the engine bay. I have a non-vented hood, a round top su's, and a rx-7 electric fuel pump. I still get a little vapour lock when its a warm day, say 25C+ and ive been driving for a fair while. Ill stop at lights or something and im there for a couple of minutes ill "chug" when a accelerate away. I dont have a heat shield, should I get one, or fabricate one as well as the ceramic coating? Anyone else get this prob with unwrapped headers? Cheers John

Can you see out of your rear view mirror with that speaker box in the back? Just wondering :cheeky:

I agree that you'll get the slowest car infront and the longest red light if the cars about to overheat. We got my friends pulsar home after 3 coolant stops. Though in hindsight we really should've left it where it was.

Gday, I just wanna run this past everyone to make sure my thinking is correct. Cylinder No5 doesnt make a difference when i pull the spark lead. when i check the plug its wet with fuel. I've checked plugs and leads and dizzy rotor. When its chugging away on 5 and i spray carb cleaner around the intake the miss goes away. So ive got a manifold leak. This only appeared out of the blue, I just finished wiring a rx7 fuel pump. I tested the pump on the car ran great. Wired it up so as to stop when engine dies. Then after that I started her up i started to get the got problem. I'm SURE the pump isnt the cause. Manifold gasket is prolly only 4-5 months old (The exhaust place is like "nah get no problems with these gaskets" when enquired about it when i got extractors fitted) So can a manifold leak prevent the firing of the cylinder? Can it just sorta happen suddenly like that? Is a 75 260Z Dome top Su's, 280zx dizzy and coil, mild cam, extractors with 2.25 exhaust. As of 3 weeks ago compression was an even 150 on all cylinders with throttle open. Thanks for the opinions everyone Luke